Re-wire complete, now onto the clutch

[Capt Jeff]

Good evening all,

After 5 straight weekends, I got the old girl completely rewired, bumper to bumper. Good way to learn the electrical side of things.

I have a lot of 12gauge wire left over if anyone is interested. I have 10 different colors on spools, approx 25-30ft left on each spool.

I will sell cheap, and you pay shipping as they are still heavy.

 

Onto my next issue, the clutch. I have to release the pedal until it is almost fully out for it to shutter and go forward. I just have a standard garage with no lift. A nice jack and some jack stands. How easy/moderate/hard is it to pull the clutch? I am pretty mechanically inclined and did a complete engine pull on my Model A, but I had a lot more belly clearance. Any input is greatly appreciated.

 

I could alway buy the parts and take it to the shop, but I am already way over my budget on this old girl.

[MarcDeSoto]

So I'm assuming the drive train is all together?  If it is, you would have to pull the drive shaft and transmission.  Then, follow your shop manual instructions for removing the clutch.  To replace the clutch, you need a clutch alignment tool, or a spare transmission drive pinion.  But before you pull the clutch, make sure you make sure the clutch is properly adjusted.  See your shop manual for release levers, overcenter spring, pedal location, and pedal free play!  I would check the pedal first.  And check out this 1948 Master Tech filmstrip:  

https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1948-volume-2-4-a-good-man-in-the-clutch/

Edited April 12, 2021 by MarcDeSoto

[Go Fleiter]

Well, the transmission is a bit heavy to be handled You laying under the car.

Work is easier while standing and beeing able to hold the trans with an appropriate stand.

In 2001, I had the propeller shaft installed inversely. Although beeing symmetrical,

the shaft has a direction and the mechanic did not find my "front" sign.

Having driven at city speeds since then, I realised vibrations only at Autobahn speed

en route to the autotrain station.

 I had plenty of time before train departure into our holidays, so I turned the shaft

on the parking ground (overall, protecting gloves, tools, light- everythig is always on board).

Besides the comments of wife and daughters and having

the possibility to wash me up later, I really don´t recommend to repeat even this simple action,

even with the car raised on stands.

So my advice: You better rent some shop and carlift hours, if You want to do it Yourself.

And You better use the alignment tool - other approaches are very difficult!

Good luck!

Greetings from Düsseldorf!

Go

Edited April 12, 2021 by Go Fleiter

[Sniper]

Can't speak specifically about our older stuff but I used to Armstrong the 5 speed in my Daytona, the 3 speed in my 300, the 4 speed in my Diplomat and various automatic over the years.

 

But that was decades and one triple bypass ago.  I would at least buy/rent a transmission jack these days.

[Marcel Backs]

My old 3 speed weighs a ton. I do not think transmission failure was too common in these because of the sheer ruggedness of the design. The 3 speed in my 39 chevvy seemed much lighter when I installed it in my teens but the dodge transmission is a beast in comparison. M

[allbizz49]

You don't need a lift to swap a clutch.  One thing I do like better than jackstands are ramps. I just did a clutch on my 59 f100. It's only a little 3 speed but under 3 hours start to finish with a coffee break or two.  Clutch wasn't bad but the throwout bearing failed. Replaced everything while I was there. I say go for it, pretty simple operation. Good luck. 

[Capt Jeff]

On 4/11/2021 at 8:23 PM, MarcDeSoto said:

So I'm assuming the drive train is all together?  If it is, you would have to pull the drive shaft and transmission.  Then, follow your shop manual instructions for removing the clutch.  To replace the clutch, you need a clutch alignment tool, or a spare transmission drive pinion.  But before you pull the clutch, make sure you make sure the clutch is properly adjusted.  See your shop manual for release levers, overcenter spring, pedal location, and pedal free play!  I would check the pedal first.  And check out this 1948 Master Tech filmstrip:  

https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1948-volume-2-4-a-good-man-in-the-clutch/

Thank you very much for the info. I will take it somewhere.