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Rear End (ratio) and Brakes


billrigsby

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Was looking to find the ratio of the rear end, this was the only markings I can find, wonder if they mean anything to anyone, may need to pull the cover and count.

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Also decided to clean and check the drums, I had put a thick coat of grease on them 30 some years ago, for the most part they look okay,

one rear has some rust to emory cloth out.

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The brake slave cylinders do  not look like they have stood the test of time all that well,

knocked one of the rear pistons in and saw some rust, will need to remove all of them and inspect, possibly replace/repair

 

I cannot for the life of me explain what has caused this wear ring on the inside of one of the rear drums, there are no innards, just wheel cylinders?

Nothing on the inside has any wear marks, it has to be recent (rolling in and out of the shop) or it should be rusty? It also looked like there were marks in the grease.

 

Inked20201031_120407_1600x1200_LI_900x1200.jpg.bc7b8f9dbd1a0ec74077aad26c118161.jpg

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34 minutes ago, JBNeal said:

if the hub bearings are not adjusted properly, the drum will be a little loose and rub the brake shoe linings...

 

Yes, however the only part in there was the slave cylinder, no brakes no springs no nothing, baffling

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Well Dang!

Was looking in the wrong place, looked through the parts manual and found...

 

Capture.PNG.fc8e59eff2f34956d1e3aa1ff63d5aaa.PNG

 

Do not like the options, guess it could be worse.....

 

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My Willys had 4.11s and would climb a wall if it could keep traction, had to put an overdrive in it just to not get run over on the highway,

oh well just go around me. ?

 

Brake cylinders tomorrow.

 

 

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Went through all the brake cylinders this AM, disassembled, honed, cleaned and reassembled.

I think I will be okay with them, we'll see if there are any leaks.

the one from the right rear was the worst (same wheel that had the rusty drum).

Also need to replace one of the cups, has a small nick in it.

 

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1978 I was a 16 year old kid working at the Texaco gas station, learning to do brake and tire work. We always rebuilt the wheel cylinders.

Was what I was taught, we would hone they cylinders and then put in the next size larger cup ... 1" bore we would put in a 1-1/16" cup.

If they did leak, then we just replaced the wheel cylinder.

Looking at the rust in the photo, seems like you may want to go 3 or 4 sizes bigger on the cup  :D

I am rooting for your success, do not get me wrong.

Sometimes photos can be deceiving, that cylinder looked pretty bad before you honed it.

 

 

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4 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

1978 I was a 16 year old kid working at the Texaco gas station, learning to do brake and tire work. We always rebuilt the wheel cylinders.

Was what I was taught, we would hone they cylinders and then put in the next size larger cup ... 1" bore we would put in a 1-1/16" cup.

If they did leak, then we just replaced the wheel cylinder.

Looking at the rust in the photo, seems like you may want to go 3 or 4 sizes bigger on the cup  :D

I am rooting for your success, do not get me wrong.

Sometimes photos can be deceiving, that cylinder looked pretty bad before you honed it.

 

Yes, pretty sad, but after sitting 30+ years could have been worse.

My dad never replaced wheel cylinders either, I actually used his old hone to get the job done.

Job done, fingers crossed, at least I know these are quality USA made cylinders.

 

Wonder, what does everyone do about shoes, reline, source of quality replacements?

My rears have plenty of meat left, fronts are getting down there.

For now I will reassemble the old ones (in case of a leak), but we are years out before a 'road test'

 

 

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I think your approach is just fine .... figure out what you want before dumping a bunch of money into something you may change in a year or two.

Shoes are now becoming available, unknown quality but have seen them ... Drums are the real hard ones to get.

 

If you wanted to do a original restoration to take to car shows, You can find them ... last time I checked, front drums on ebay were $400 each.

And I thank the guy for recasting them and putting them out there.

 

While mopar brakes may have been the best available at the time .... we have better now. You could switch to disk brakes for less $$ then rebuilding new.

Just depends how authentic you "need" to go.

 

I have a Rusty hope disk brake kit sitting on the shelf, (I bought for a different project) But my original brakes only needed a new wheel cylinder ... I will just use what I have.

But if they start getting involved and difficult to adjust and simply become a pita, disk brakes are going on.

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Wow $400 each for front drums, I'm glad I got a complete pair, kingpins, spindles and everything that was just basically 'cutting torched' off the front axle.

 

The current set, front and rear were turned like everything else about 30+ years ago, and fortunately they're in good shape.

 

I guess at this point I'll just use the shoes I have (mostly to test the Integrity of the wheel cylinders) and start making a list of who has what available and also check on the cost to have what I have relined.

 

 

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