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Glowing question


Frank Elder

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What clear material what is the Lucent lady made of on the 46 to 48 De Soto Hood ornaments? If anybody knows or has a wag I would appreciate some input on this question as I am debating on whether or not to buy a 3-D printer and make a clear ram Hood ornament for my D 24. I suppose any clear plastic would work but I would rather have something a little more opaque than clear I would rather have a glow then a spotlight.

thank you one and all for your help.

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My Pontiac just had the chrome chief head, without the lovely amber plastic, but I loved the light in the P15 ornament. I tinted the inside amber, because it looked better than just a little yellow bulb. Eventually the amber tint turned smokey grey from the sunlight. No UV stability in the tint I used.

 

A 3D printer will work, but it won't be smooth. You'll have to sand and buff to make it shine like glass. And you will want to use a plastic that's UV resistant or "stabilized".

 

If you can capture a silicone mold from a perfect metal ornament, and stiffen it to hold the weight, it can be used to mold plastic resin into a smooth surface like glass.

We did this in the 8th grade at Woodland Jr High, 1967 shop class. I used a ceramic statuette, cast the silicone, then recast with catalyzed polyester resin. Many special resins are available nowadays, and I would consult a plastics supplier.

 

The issue is getting the bubbles out. You can use heat, centrifuge, or vacuum degassing pot; degassing being the best IMO. To centrifuge you need a strong mold. using the heat gun is OK, but I'd avoid the torch. Hard to get even heating.

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OH, yeah, special mixing nozzles may be available, and they help eliminate bubbles vs stick-mixing.

 

Now that frank piqued my interest, I started some research and it seems the pressure pot degassing method method is very popular now. we weren't allowed high-pressure air in the shop.

Edited by Ulu
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Acetone can be used to smooth out ABS filament 3D prints/models, it can be done by brushing it on or with just the heated vapors which some use an old rice steamer to accomplish.

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On 10/8/2020 at 9:28 AM, Ulu said:

 

 

The issue is getting the bubbles out. You can use heat, centrifuge, or vacuum degassing pot; degassing being the best IMO. To centrifuge you need a strong mold. using the heat gun is OK, but I'd avoid the torch. Hard to get even heating.

No issue there, I have already butted heads with the bubble issue many moons ago........have you seen construction guys vibrate cement?

I vibrate the bubbles out with a light duty hammer drill........just kidding....lol, thanks for all your advice.?

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Actually vibration’s not a bad method.

It also helps to ensure 100% mold fill.

 

I’ve seen lots of concrete work friend. I used to work in an engineering office designing foundations for school buildings.

 

I have used the solvent-wash method to smooth clear PVC plastic parts that I created for my aquariums. This works very well with plastics like acrylite, plexiglas, polystyrene and PVC. It does not work quite as well with Lexan, But I can solvent glue Lexan to PVC Or plexiglass.

 

I also make parts out of high density poly, but with plastics like polypropylene I use a torch and flame polish them. No common solvent will touch that stuff. That’s what they use for glue bottles because nothing sticks to it.

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