cowl vent produces hot air???

[Dodgeb4ya]

On 7/28/2020 at 7:40 AM, harmony said:

By the way, are these images taken from the factory owners manual? 

Yes....out of a 1946-48 Chrysler owners manual....same operation in Ply/Dodge and DeSoto.

Edited August 2, 2020 by Dodgeb4ya
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[Dodgeb4ya]

Factory design dual heaters plumbing with correct dual hose heater control valve....with control cable correctly installed on back of valve..

[harmony]

27 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Yes....out of a 1946-48 Chrysler owners manual....same operation in Ply/Didge and DeSoto.

I keep telling myself that I need to get one of those.  I have the service manual and the parts manual.  I'm just old fashioned and hope one day I'll stumble across an original copy at a swap meet, if we ever get over this covid thing and swap meets start to get going again.  Does anyone have any comments on the reproduction owners manuals?  My service manual is a reproduction and it's almost impossible to see any detail in most of the images because they are so black.  I don't mean to drift off topic but that was very helpful info about the All Weather Aircontrol system.

[harmony]

13 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Factory design dual heaters plumbing with correct dual hose heater control valve....with control cable correctly installed on back of valve..

It would seem that mine has been altered

[50mech]

On 7/27/2020 at 11:08 AM, keithb7 said:

My '53 has some type of air blend slider on the heat controls. Labeled "Summer-------Winter". I believe in winter mode it directs the air coming through the cowl, through the cab heater core. In summer it directs air straight from the  intake cowl to the cab, not through the heater core.  I can't be 100% sure if it works or not. I just shut off the water valve at the rear right corner of my cylinder head. It blocks any hot coolant from going to the cab heater core. Then I do have 100% confidence I am not blowing superheated hot summer air into my cab, when I want whatever cooling the ambient air temp can provide.

The summer / winter on winter setting divides the  heater core in half so that when you are set at full warm all air goes in one side and out the other.

On summer it's undivided so all settings are a blend of outside air and whats routed through the heater core by the blend door.

[Sniper]

Gee whiz, where is summer?  Finland?  Out here it's 100+ and no one needs any added heat, of any ratio, lol.

[James_Douglas]

I used a stainless steel ball valve. I used the arm off of the original heater control vale and made a steel plate which bolts to the valve and hold the cable.

 

The stock aluminum ones are junk when they get old. NOS ones cost a lot. I have used the below on my '47 Desoto for 15 years without any problem. The only thing I changed was to add a stop so I could not over pull the cable and keep the ball at full open but not to go past that "center".

 

James

 

 

 

 

[harmony]

10 hours ago, James_Douglas said:

I used a stainless steel ball valve. I used the arm off of the original heater control vale and made a steel plate which bolts to the valve and hold the cable.

 

The stock aluminum ones are junk when they get old. NOS ones cost a lot. I have used the below on my '47 Desoto for 15 years without any problem. The only thing I changed was to add a stop so I could not over pull the cable and keep the ball at full open but not to go past that "center".

 

James

 

 

 

 

That's a good idea and I had intended to go that route.  However the threads on my fitting coming out of the head didn't look very good and I didn't have a tap to clean them up.  So I did what the previous custodian of my car did and slip a heater hose over it.

[harmony]

Problem solved ?  I got to searching on line for a control valve that would work.  I wasn't about to pay $600 US for a NOS one on Ebay.  By the time it landed in my lap it would have cost me about $900 Canadian.  But I did find one that fits a 73 International dump truck that was the right size and had the bracketry at 90 degrees at a fraction of the price. The only slight concern was that the lever attachment for the cable was on the front side and not the back side.  I had to fiddle around with it a bit so it didn't interfer with my spark plug boot.  Mine are quite long.  Anyways it all worked out ok and it solved the problem.  Once I got the old control valve off and in my hand, I turned it upside down and with the valve closed I filled in tube with water and it came out the other end.  So it was not properly closing. 

I just went for a drive and I not only have nice cool air coming in from the cowl vent but I also have cool air coming in from my kick panel vents now.  I'm a happy camper !

Thanks everyone for your interest and suggestions and advice.

[James_Douglas]

14 hours ago, harmony said:

Problem solved ?  I got to searching on line for a control valve that would work.  I wasn't about to pay $600 US for a NOS one on Ebay.  By the time it landed in my lap it would have cost me about $900 Canadian.  But I did find one that fits a 73 International dump truck that was the right size and had the bracketry at 90 degrees at a fraction of the price. The only slight concern was that the lever attachment for the cable was on the front side and not the back side.  I had to fiddle around with it a bit so it didn't interfer with my spark plug boot.  Mine are quite long.  Anyways it all worked out ok and it solved the problem.  Once I got the old control valve off and in my hand, I turned it upside down and with the valve closed I filled in tube with water and it came out the other end.  So it was not properly closing. 

I just went for a drive and I not only have nice cool air coming in from the cowl vent but I also have cool air coming in from my kick panel vents now.  I'm a happy camper !

Thanks everyone for your interest and suggestions and advice.

 

Post the actual part number and source so the next guy can find one...

[harmony]

The p/n is 74685.  Both O"Reilly and Summit Racing use the same p/n for it in the US and here in Western Canada, Lordco Auto Parts also uses the same p/n.   On the box it was referred to as Heater Valve  by 4 Seasons .   It's made in Chine so time will tell on how long it lasts.  The inner openings on the rotating valve don't line up exactly with the in and out 5/8" tubes.  Looking in the end of it sort of looks like a partial eclipse of the moon.  I determined that I could have ground away a bit of the inner valve part with a long shaft die grinding bit, so that I would have had more undisturbed water flow, but them I'd run the risk of not getting all the metal filings out of the valve.  So I just left it alone.   

[50mech]

I suggested a four seasons 74685 earlier in this thread but the description I looked at said it was 5/8 on both ends ....I guess it isn't?

[harmony]

3 hours ago, 50mech said:

I suggested a four seasons 74685 earlier in this thread but the description I looked at said it was 5/8 on both ends ....I guess it isn't?

Yes it is 5/8" both ends.  That threaded fitting in my block is 1/2" so I just used my heat gun on a short length of 1/2" heater hose and worked it onto the 5/8" end.

[harmony]

10 hours ago, harmony said:

Yes it is 5/8" both ends.  That threaded fitting in my block is 1/2" so I just used my heat gun on a short length of 1/2" heater hose and worked it onto the 5/8" end.

Btw, I forgot to mention that when I googled what I was looking for, I went to "images" and spotted the valve I needed and once I checked it out, I realized it was the same p/n as you recoomended (74685) So I took that image and p/n to my parts store.  It was after I purchased it that I saw that it was also a 4 seasons product.  

So thanks for that suggestion and sorry I didn't mention it.

[James_Douglas]

Probably cost less than my solution which required some fabrication and welding for the cable to do its thing. That said, stainless steel and 70K miles later and all is good.

[Sniper]

Did a bit of research on some screw in heater control valves.

 

If you follow the link and put the numbers in the search function it's give useful data on them.

 

Here's what I found, so far.  The (?) means I am not sure that is the NPT size, the data is poorly parsed in that regard.  I believe it's correct bu I don;t have any of them to confirm.

 

Screw in heater valves

https://www.4s.com/en

74648 - 90 degree, outlet probably not in a good place.  5/8" hose. push off, pull on, 3/8 NPT (?)
74765 -  inline, 1/2" hose, push on, pull off 1/2" NPT (?)
74683 - inline, 5/8" hose. , push off, pull on 3/8 NPT

 

 

 

[harmony]

14 hours ago, Sniper said:

Did a bit of research on some screw in heater control valves.

 

If you follow the link and put the numbers in the search function it's give useful data on them.

 

Here's what I found, so far.  The (?) means I am not sure that is the NPT size, the data is poorly parsed in that regard.  I believe it's correct bu I don;t have any of them to confirm.

 

Screw in heater valves

https://www.4s.com/en

74648 - 90 degree, outlet probably not in a good place.  5/8" hose. push off, pull on, 3/8 NPT (?)
74765 -  inline, 1/2" hose, push on, pull off 1/2" NPT (?)
74683 - inline, 5/8" hose. , push off, pull on 3/8 NPT

 

 

 

Thanks for that research.  Since I couldn't get my fitting out of the head it looks like I chose the right one for my dual heater set up.