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Scarebird installation


48ply1stcar
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Now I know why is so few threads on this subject.  Second wheel same as the first.  Easy-peasy conversion.  The hub is no different than installing any hub or the original front drum.  Once you install the bracket it's no different than any other disc brake job.

I wanted to re-locate the metal brake hose to the rear of the suspenion, but I spent too much time looking for a brake hose with a 90 degree banjo fitting.  I used a 17 inch front brake hose from an 85 Cadilac Seville and ran the hose between the shock and king pin

Still working on the master cylinder, trying to use the original master cylinder without the residual valve.  I'll let you know how that works out.

Edited by 48ply1stcar
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Those Cherokee parts are common around here. I should consider that rear setup.

I really don't want the stock brakes, or the stock axles on a driver.

 

I've been considering all sorts of wild schemes for front suspension. That will determine the front brakes.

But the kingpin suspension is coming out. Restored mine and wore it out again. Not completely, but 65k on the new kingpins was enough.

 

McPhearson strut, mated to stock lower arm with R&P could be cool. Major frame butchery to make that up, but my front crossmember has caved in from careless jacking.

Not completely, but it ain't pretty.

 

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20 minutes ago, 48ply1stcar said:

Went for a test drive today.  God it was great, out of habit I wanted to pump the brakes - no need.  Just drove it around the neighbourhood.

2000 Cherokee axle, running original master cylinder without residual valve.

Glad to hear, does the pedal stay high after it sits overnight?

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44 minutes ago, Adam H P15 D30 said:

Glad to hear, does the pedal stay high after it sits overnight?

Yup, stay high.  I spent two days bleeding and tigtening.  Had an issue with one of the brak hoses.  I coundn't get it to seal until I flided it over.   

Stay tuned for a clutch adjustment question.

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On 4/10/2020 at 2:25 PM, 48ply1stcar said:

Went for a test drive today.  God it was great, out of habit I wanted to pump the brakes - no need.  Just drove it around the neighbourhood.

2000 Cherokee axle, running original master cylinder without residual valve.

Curious. Is the 2000 Cherokee rear-end the same width as original rear? Is it a direct swap?

Thanks,

DonnieT

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On 4/15/2020 at 11:42 PM, DonnieT said:

Curious. Is the 2000 Cherokee rear-end the same width as original rear? Is it a direct swap?

Thanks,

DonnieT

NO.  Not cheap either, but somthing I wanted for a long time.  I started a thread "Sucessful rear axle swaps" in 2015.  Lots of good information.  I decided on the 2000 Cherokee 8 1/4 Chrysler rear end.  Practically a bolt in when you have somebody else do it for you.  Orginal axle 2 3/4" diameter new 3".  Remove axle spring mounts,  weld new ones in place (ensuring pinion angle is correct. then have a axle driveshaft  made.  My decision is the last comment in attached thread.

 

Edited by 48ply1stcar
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10 hours ago, derbydad276 said:

I'm 3/4 through installing a scarebird kit on the front and a cherokee axle on the rear along with converting to a Dual reservoir master ...

hardest thing on the axle install was lifting the damn thing 

Wow, both at the same time.  Good luck.  I thought that I would do the new master Cylinder this year, but maybe later.  What gear ratio did you get in the new axle

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 4/12/2020 at 10:17 AM, 48ply1stcar said:

Yup, first curise night.  I didn't replace the hupcaps and lost a dust cap to a hub, bounce under the car sounded like the parts were falling off.

Removed the front wheels again to check and tighten.  Both caliper guide pins missing on right front wheel, apparently parts were falling off.

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