'51 Chrysler T & C Wagon

[DJ194950]

Need to do a tooth count on the flywheels and compare. Later models had a different tooth count /overall flywheel dia.?? and will not directly interchange if diff.

 

If earliest if may work after your comparison.  Other forum members may have more specific info but comparisons will confirm . 6 volt starters work just fine in place of 12v. if tooth counts/

bellhousing depths do not also get changed. That will have to also be checked as to depth of the ring gears from the block by each flywheel . My seem to be a lot to check but really just basic measure/count/ compare.

 

Should be a nice change!

 

DJ

[Greg51T&CWagon]

Thanks DJ, b/c of the way I'm doing this the old engine i still in the car so measuring counting teeth is tough. Looks like it will be an issue for the future. Once the old engine is out and I can see what's what. It just dawned on me that the flywheel is attached to the fluid drive...so this ind flywheel is no good for me. Ha! [slaps forehead]. 

[Bob Riding]

On 1/4/2020 at 11:00 AM, Greg51T&CWagon said:

I'm starting to pull the wiring and label to replace. It's in horrendous shape in the engine compartment but not bad behind the dash. In any case I'm replacing most of it. I'd like to do this without removing the dash and also without working upside down. The plan is to remove all the switches from the dash (lights ign etc) and pull the main cluster. dropping the wiring from under the dash. Labeling as I go. The wire that ran to the solenoid  was a bare wire for most of its run!  I've ordered cloth covered wire from Rhode Island Harnesses.

Here's a shot of the registration tag on the firewall. it was hidden behind a caddie brake booster that had been added when the original went bad. 

 

Hey Greg,

Did you ever try to get your data plate decoded? I don't know if there is a resource online that would tell us what all the numbers mean. When I was helping my son with his '53 Buick, we were able to decode it from the Buick site...of course! 

[Greg51T&CWagon]

No, I haven't done that yet. I've looked around but only a cursory search. I have the build card from Chrysler, It says I have a taxi package which I guess means heavier springs and brakes? Not sure.

[Greg51T&CWagon]

Picked up the rebuilt 265 from George Asche yesterday afternoon. Stored it at the garage that will drop it in for me. I want to get the dash back in with new wiring first and maybe cover the front seat first too. Feels good to have this major step taken care of. Visiting George's place is always a treat. It's a bit overwhelming, everywhere you look are little gems in the maze of buildings on his property.

 

[Greg51T&CWagon]

I tried using the moldable craft board "taskboard" recommended on another thread about repairing a heater duct to patch some cracks and a mouse hole in mine. I first cleaned and then sprayed my duct with aerosol rubber coating - the stuff hawked on TV. Then formed the patches with the damp board which was very easy to do even on an inside compound curve. Once the patch would sort of set to the curve, I coated both surfaces with rubber cement and applied the patch.  I've now sprayed the patched areas again with the rubber spray. I used the rubber spray b/c I wanted it to be basically encapsulated so moisture would not be a problem. I might line the inside with a thin self adhesive heat resistant aluminum foil/insulation. Once it dries I'll add some photos.

[Bob Riding]

3 hours ago, Greg51T&CWagon said:

I tried using the moldable craft board "taskboard" recommended on another thread about repairing a heater duct to patch some cracks and a mouse hole in mine. I first cleaned and then sprayed my duct with aerosol rubber coating - the stuff hawked on TV. Then formed the patches with the damp board which was very easy to do even on an inside compound curve. Once the patch would sort of set to the curve, I coated both surfaces with rubber cement and applied the patch.  I've now sprayed the patched areas again with the rubber spray. I used the rubber spray b/c I wanted it to be basically encapsulated so moisture would not be a problem. I might line the inside with a thin self adhesive heat resistant aluminum foil/insulation. Once it dries I'll add some photos.

Great work! pictures please!

[Greg51T&CWagon]

So here it is before the final coat of flex seal. 

greg

 

Edited August 27, 2020 by Greg51T&CWagon
wrong file format

[Bob Riding]

56 minutes ago, Greg51T&CWagon said:

So here it is before the final coat of flex seal. 

greg

 

Brillant!

[Greg51T&CWagon]

Thanks Bob. I think one could actually make a replacement duct with this stuff. Use a good one as a buck to form it over, coat it inside and out with the rubber stuff. Also the under dash duct. 

[Greg51T&CWagon]

So finally getting back to the wagon after a long hiatus. It is getting the rebuilt engine swapped in this week. I've started making a replacement seat cover for the front seat by making a pattern test version, I want it to be sorted perfectly before I use the good stuff from SMS. I'm using a new toy- A new Sailrite walking foot sewing machine which I've wanted for a LONG time.  it works great and makes it so much easier. So today's question, radial wide white tires. I'm assuming there will be vendors at Hershey that will have them on hand. Has anyone noticed if there is any advantage to picking them up there? is the price better? 

The car now has 205 70R15s in front and 205 75R15s in back. I'm a bit of a tire neophyte, Not sure what the advantage to running two sizes? I haven't been to Hershey in maybe 15 years? looking forward to it. 

 

[James_Douglas]

Greg, What are you going to do with all the old combine parts...I have been thinking of making a stationary engine with belts for a couple of things...

 

James

[Greg51T&CWagon]

James,

I left those with George Asche.  I bet they are still laying around up there. You might check with him. I have too much "stuff" as it is so didn't want to bring them home.

Greg

[Greg51T&CWagon]

The 251 engine (short block w/pan) is still available for free. It should be available for pickup in the Philly suburbs sometime this week or early next. Someone had claimed it but appears to have moved on. So it's available again. Please DM to make arrangements. I'd rather not scrap it. 

[Greg51T&CWagon]

I'm moving the oil filter set up from the 251 to the 265 (it was unfiltered). The filter cartridge that was in it is a Purolator P82. I want to double check with folks, does that sound like the right filter or a make do the PO used ?  I can't find previous mention of the P82 on the forum.

Thanks

greg

 

PS still no takers on the free short block. DM if interested.

[Greg51T&CWagon]

Didn't get a reply to this so thought i'd post a pic of the canister to see if that would elicit any responses. Which filter are folks using in this? and is this a full flow canister or bypass?  Searching the site i didn't find a clear answer. It says "Type 805" on the base.

Thanks for your help,

Greg

[sidevalvepete]

A full flow system is all about where and how your inlet and outlet for the oil is directed to your filter from the oil pump or the boss that the oil pump is mounted to. Looking at the pictures of your reconditioned block it appears to me that you don't have a full flow system. I tapped into the oil pump and block to get into the oil flow. The tap point from the oil pump is where the oil is pumped into the oil filter ( mine being a small cartridge type that is modern, not period correct ). After filtration it then returns to the block via the tap point in the raised boss that the oil pump is mounted to. The important thing here is that the oil passageway is blocked with a screwed plug to stop the oil bypassing the filter, in the block before the return point. Therefore all the oil that goes through the oil pump is filtered, not just some of it like the original mopar filter systems were.

Having said all this, it probably doesn't matter too much whether you have partial filtering, full filtering or no filtering. My original 201 motor did 104,000 miles before I had it rebuilt. It never had a filter at all. It also had pretty sporadic oil changes in the last 20 years of my grandfather's ownership when he did few miles. They are such bullet proof, low rpm, low compression etc that with regular oil changes and appropriate modern oil they will last a long time. I just got a bit carried away........

Above are mine. Below is someone else from the forum showing theirs. I think the last one is real tidy too. Both systems do exactly the same thing.

[Greg51T&CWagon]

Thanks, That's a very clever adaptation.  Regarding seat of the pants oiling, This industrial engine didn't even have a dipstick. So it isn't in the canister that full flow etc is determined- make sense of course. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

Your 1951 factory installed Chrysler 251 engine uses a "Full Flow" filtration system.

All 1946 and later  Chrysler six and eight cylinder engines are full flow as came from the factory.

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

Now I just saw industrial engine....all bets are off as to what your engine is.

Internally the full flow can be changed either full flow or bypass.

You will have to find out look ing for internal oil plugs that change oil flow.

[Greg51T&CWagon]

Thanks, That's something I guess, if i had known, I should have asked George about while he was rebuilding it. Where are the plugs? easily accessible? ie can I just remove the oil pan to check? 

[Greg51T&CWagon]

Well something I should also have checked was-did the block have the needed mounting pad for this oil filter canister? It does not, so useless for the new motor. Oh well, only out the time it took to clean it up.

 

I had better luck sorting a clock for the dash. The wagon had a delete plate instead. Found a clean non functioning one on Ebay and took it apart, cleaned and lubed it. Found the magnet's windings were disconnected and fixed that with some soldering, It should work fine now. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

No pad on your 265 Industrial engine.☹

[Greg51T&CWagon]

Found this aftermarket filter canister. It's new old stock. Has a typical paper and metal filter inside a cotton sock. I should be able to make this work. Has a cool look.