bkahler Posted October 30, 2019 Author Report Posted October 30, 2019 10 hours ago, JBNeal said: I'm envious of your manifold setup, but your steering parts look to be transposed...what's the contraption in the dash radio location? When I found out that you could buy a dual carburetor setup for these old engines I just had to have it. My background is mostly Triumph sports cars and they all had dual SUs or Strombergs. I coulnd't resist Yes, the steering is backwards. I was in such a hurry back in 2000 to get the truck on wheels so I could load it on the trailer for it's trip to Texas that I wasn't paying attention to the details. As I've been pouring over the manuals again I noticed that minor detail! Actually the picture of the radio opening is deceptive. If you look closer you'll realize that what you actually see is the firewall through the opening. I did a double take at first as well and finally figured out after zooming in what I was seeing. Basically an optical illusion. Quote
ggdad1951 Posted October 30, 2019 Report Posted October 30, 2019 odd location for the radio, looks to be right behind the steering column? Definitely not a factory cut out. It's amazing what a little moisture can do over time. Best of luck! Quote
bkahler Posted October 30, 2019 Author Report Posted October 30, 2019 The radio opening is actually in the proper location. The angle of the picture is what is cauing the confusion. A Mopar 824 or 830 radio fits the opening. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 30, 2019 Report Posted October 30, 2019 Yep...axle is backwards....? 1 Quote
bkahler Posted October 30, 2019 Author Report Posted October 30, 2019 38 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said: Yep...axle is backwards....? Axle? Or the steering arms that are bolted to the spindles 180 out? I guess it wouldn't surprise me if I have to completely dismantle the front end to correct things. Like I said, back when I installed it my focus was getting it loaded on a trailer for the move south! Brad Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 30, 2019 Report Posted October 30, 2019 I cannot tell from the pictures..but the axle curve should be to the rear as should the arms and steering linkage? Quote
ggdad1951 Posted October 30, 2019 Report Posted October 30, 2019 2 hours ago, bkahler said: The radio opening is actually in the proper location. The angle of the picture is what is cauing the confusion. A Mopar 824 or 830 radio fits the opening. wow BAD perspective! Quote
bkahler Posted October 30, 2019 Author Report Posted October 30, 2019 5 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said: I cannot tell from the pictures..but the axle curve should be to the rear as should the arms and steering linkage? I think I have several things wrong. The curve on the axle is towards the rear. The shock mount studs are pointing towards the front. Should they be to the rear? This winter I'll just dismantle the whole front suspension and put it together right. Quote
bkahler Posted October 30, 2019 Author Report Posted October 30, 2019 Pulled the pan and pulled the valve covers. Couldn't ask for better results! No sign of water damage anywhere. The best news of all is the crank does turn!! After taking the pictures I got to thinking about it and decided to try again. As I turned on the crank nut only the nut turned and then after thinking about it I suspected that I hadn't tightened the crank nut back when I was assembling the front of the engine. At the time I was really only test fitting things and then the move from Arkansas to Kentucky took place so progress stopped. So I tried turning a little harder and all of a sudden the pulley turned indicating the crank had as well. As you can see in the pictures there is an abundance of lube inside the engine that gradually moved south over the years. With luck sometime this winter I'll try and start the engine. Brad 1 1 Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 31, 2019 Report Posted October 31, 2019 Looks good! Shock studs face to the front. Did you install the four factory crank to flywheel bolts and nuts? I just saw they were not installed before the rear main cap was installed. Factory special bolts are machined to fit the recess in the crank. The bolts have a flat spot on one side of the head to prevent the bolt from turning. 1 Quote
bkahler Posted October 31, 2019 Author Report Posted October 31, 2019 19 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said: Looks good! Shock studs face to the front. Did you install the four factory crank to flywheel bolts and nuts? I just saw they were not installed before the rear main cap was installed. Factory special bolts are machined to fit the recess in the crank. The bolts have a flat spot on one side of the head to prevent the bolt from turning. Are you referring to my engine? I didn't see the rear cap in any of the pictures I posted. It's been 20 years since I fastened the flywheel to the engine and don't remember anything about it. The oil pan is not permanently fastened yet so I can pull it to see if anything is obvious. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 31, 2019 Report Posted October 31, 2019 (edited) This pic is the one i saw the missing bolts...it just caught my eye as I once forgot to put the bolts in the crank and had to tear it apart.. pull the pan and main cap to install them. Edited October 31, 2019 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
bkahler Posted October 31, 2019 Author Report Posted October 31, 2019 12 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said: This pic is the one i saw the missing bolts...it just caught my eye as I once forgot to put the bolts in the crank and had to tear it apart.. pull the pan and main cap to install them. Well, doesn't that just take the cake ? Since it was 20 years ago I honestly don't remember if the studs were eventually put in place before buttoning up the engine or not. I didn't take any pictures yesterday of the rear main as I was more concerned about the condition of the cylinder walls and cam. Friday or Saturday I'll drop the pan again and take a look to find out if they are nuts or bolt heads. After I read your email last night I browsed through the service manual looking for any reference to those bolts and couldn't find anything. It's entirely possible I missed a reference so if someone could point out where it's documented that would be great. I did find two threads about those bolts which made for interesting reading. https://p15-d24.com/topic/23623-flywheel-bolts/ https://p15-d24.com/topic/49014-flywheel-bolt-problem-major/ Stay tuned...... Brad Quote
Tony WestOZ Posted October 31, 2019 Report Posted October 31, 2019 Sorry if I am side tracking this thread but was there a change in the way the flywheel bolted on in about 53. The reason I ask is that the 230 used in Australia from 54 on according to the parts manual used 6 bolts. I am not sure which way the bolts went in as I have never worked on a short block. The long blocks I have worked on have all been 8 bolt and you have to put the bolt through the flywheel, crank flange and then the washer and nut go on from the block side. There is no way it can be done the other way. Tony Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 31, 2019 Report Posted October 31, 2019 Yes you are right. Later engines used six bolt flywheels. Nut and bolt combination changes happened too. Others here have posted pics of this six bolt I think in the past. Mixing and matching mopar cranks/flywheels nuts and bolts can be a challenge. Quote
Tony WestOZ Posted October 31, 2019 Report Posted October 31, 2019 1 hour ago, Dodgeb4ya said: Mixing and matching mopar cranks/flywheels nuts and bolts can be a challenge. You are not wrong. Even though the trucks here were all long blocks there was changes made to flywheel sizes and tooth count. Not easy to pick up even when side by side. Tony Quote
bkahler Posted October 31, 2019 Author Report Posted October 31, 2019 Well I happy to say this discussion about flywheel bolts is now moot. Attached picture says it all ? 1 1 Quote
bkahler Posted October 31, 2019 Author Report Posted October 31, 2019 Here's a better picture of the radio opening. A Mopar 824 or 830 radio fits nicely in the opening. I just need to decide on whether to have a radio restored or converted. Quote
Tony WestOZ Posted October 31, 2019 Report Posted October 31, 2019 33 minutes ago, bkahler said: Well I happy to say this discussion about flywheel bolts is now moot. Attached picture says it all ? Gee there is a real difference compared to the long blocks I have here. 1 Quote
bkahler Posted November 1, 2019 Author Report Posted November 1, 2019 So trucks shipped down under were all long blocks? Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted November 1, 2019 Report Posted November 1, 2019 4 hours ago, bkahler said: Well I happy to say this discussion about flywheel bolts is now moot. Attached picture says it all ? I sure got your blood pressure up on this issue? But at least you got to re learn about flywheels and bolts&nuts! Quote
Tony WestOZ Posted November 1, 2019 Report Posted November 1, 2019 4 hours ago, bkahler said: So trucks shipped down under were all long blocks? Canadian imports until they started building them here. A bit of info on OZ trucks. http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/garage/garage.htm Quote
ggdad1951 Posted November 1, 2019 Report Posted November 1, 2019 11 hours ago, bkahler said: Here's a better picture of the radio opening. A Mopar 824 or 830 radio fits nicely in the opening. I just need to decide on whether to have a radio restored or converted. yah, that's cut out has been butchered....you can kinda see where the electric beaver was used to remove the piece between what should be 2 rectangles. Quote
bkahler Posted November 2, 2019 Author Report Posted November 2, 2019 Does this look like the right placement for the fuel line? To me it sort of looks like a replacement piece most likely fabricated by some PO. The fuel pump was purchased new 21 years ago from Burnbaum and I'm betting that the new fuels in use today will quickly eat through the rubber parts in the pump. Anyone know of rebuild kits for these pumps that will stand up to the new fuels? I also noticed this pump has a 1/8-27 threaded inlet where the original pump had a 1/4-18 inlet. Thanks, BRad Quote
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