Fernando Mendes Posted October 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2019 5 hours ago, Fernando Mendes said: I will check? ? not found on the cap.Is there in valve cover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted October 13, 2019 Report Share Posted October 13, 2019 (edited) the valve covers are sealed during engine operation, so air must enter the oil fill tube through the crankcase breather, which should have an opening for air to flow through its serviceable filter. additional information - Tech Tip: Crankcase Ventilation Edited October 16, 2019 by JBNeal revised link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted October 13, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2019 Thanks JBNeal.If someone of this forum have a pic of this crankcase breather(?).I checked all its cap and I think its gasket is sealing the input of the air.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted October 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2019 JBNeal now I understood.The first pic is mine engine with its oil filler tube CAP that does not allow the air enter to the crankcase.The second pic is from Bradley he sent me years ago,with filter in the crankcase filler tube.Thanks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted October 14, 2019 Report Share Posted October 14, 2019 The filler cap you have looks similar to what is used on Power Wagons that were built with PCV systems...this seals off the engine crankcase to allow the engine to be partially submerged when fording bodies of water, protecting the engine internals from water exposure, but also has the added benefit of redirecting blowby gases and condensation back through the combustion chamber...notice on the crankcase breather setup that the fill pipe is cylindrical and not flared out, as the crankcase breather simply slips onto the fill pipe...the fill pipe also has an indention to properly align the breather cap (which has a matching raised area) to keep its opening away from the radiator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted October 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2019 From the g503.com site forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted October 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2019 On 10/8/2019 at 7:57 PM, Reg Evans said: Yup, Hopefully it's only a blown head gasket and not a cracked block or worse...….a vandal. We withdrew the head today.The water was not entering through the cylinders because they were clear.We noticed a front hole on the block and head clogged(why?).Shall we unclog this front hole?The gasket is all parched.I own this PU since 1987 and never changed this gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted October 29, 2019 Report Share Posted October 29, 2019 That is the water pump internal bypass; it needs to be free flowing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted October 29, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2019 9 hours ago, JBNeal said: That is the water pump internal bypass; it needs to be free flowing Thanks very much JBNeal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted October 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 Before and after.The water pump bypass hole was uncloged today.I have to unclog the same hole on the block too.I weird the decrease of combustion chamber.The compression ratio should increase.The head was not straight.The lathe withdrew 0,4mm.My friend sad me to use NGK B4 spark plug instead B6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted October 30, 2019 Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 You might want to verify piston clearance to the head before startup...that machined head looks like it will be really close... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted October 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 12 minutes ago, JBNeal said: You might want to verify piston clearance to the head before startup...that machined head looks like it will be really close... ? STEVAUX gasket.(NOS) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted October 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 JBNeal,that is a pic from this forum I got years ago.The combustion chamber has the same drawing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted October 31, 2019 Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 It's deceiving because the "before" picture looks like a round combustion chamber. But it's more likely just a round soot build up on the flat surface of the head. Once it's milled and clean it looks like the chamber shrunk by more than it actually did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Balazs Posted October 31, 2019 Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 I agree that pictures can be deceiving........but this looks like a very close check is warranted. I am sure Fernando would rather not find out the hard way. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted October 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 55 minutes ago, Jeff Balazs said: I agree that pictures can be deceiving........but this looks like a very close check is warranted. I am sure Fernando would rather not find out the hard way. Jeff Jeff, note that the "before" pic has the same piston side mark as the "after" pic.Another thing how can only 0,4mm,almost half milimeter,damage a head?The professional that did this service has 50 years working in this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted November 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 On 10/28/2019 at 9:40 PM, JBNeal said: That is the water pump internal bypass; it needs to be free flowing Today I am trying to unclog the water pump bypass hole with my screwdriver(7 mm drill) but I am worried in damage the water jacket.First exited a piece of rubber now is exiting iron chips.Number 1 head piston is all corroded I think is because this hole was cloged.The other pistons is ok.All the pistons are still standard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted November 1, 2019 Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 Look closely at the pictures posted in that link...the bypass hole in the block directs to the water pump, not the block water jacket... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted November 1, 2019 Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 That hole isn't very deep. It connects to another port that goes forward into your water pump. This allows a small amount of coolant flow within the head to bypass the thermostat and return to the pump to ensure enough coolant flow to avoid hot spots during the warm-up process. It also ensures that the hotter coolant finds its way up to the thermostat so that it will open when needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 1, 2019 Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 I don't think you want metal chips....as Merle said it's shallow....might need an angled pick to go sideways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted November 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 Ok.I stopped the work in the morning yet.I was worried in damage the water jacket and waited more information of you.Now I saw the horizontal port that connects with its water pump.It has pieces of rubber inside.Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted November 1, 2019 Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 If you have pieces of rubber in your cooling system you may have a hose deteriorating and coming apart. May be time to remove, inspect, and/or replace your hoses. Or, could it be pieces of silicone sealant from someone getting too generous with RTV silicone on a gasket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted November 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 2 hours ago, Merle Coggins said: If you have pieces of rubber in your cooling system you may have a hose deteriorating and coming apart. May be time to remove, inspect, and/or replace your hoses. Or, could it be pieces of silicone sealant from someone getting too generous with RTV silicone on a gasket? ?Thanks very much Merle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fernando Mendes Posted November 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 Today I withdrew the water pump to see if exist communication with the bypass hole on the block but not exist.See the pics.The hole that not exist in the water pump would be in the point of the red pen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted November 2, 2019 Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 That water pump is definitely a problem as it is not allowing coolant to bypass the thermostat when the thermostat is closed; your water pump was originally designed for flatheads with the external thermostat bypass. The castings for the 2 different water pumps are also different, so a bypass hole cannot be drilled into your pump back plate to allow coolant to flow. New replacement water pumps are made to accommodate both internal and external thermostat bypass systems... Here's a recent discussion about water pump replacement options Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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