'48 P15 Clutch/Engine Mount Questions

[Sam Buchanan]

The clutch in the '48 works nicely except for minor chatter when pulling away from a stop. I've tolerated it so far and it really isn't much of an aggravation but plan to put a clutch job on the low-priority to-do list. I've spent some time in the forum archives and poking around the usual parts vendors but wish to pose the following request for up-to-date info.

 

1) Are there any sources for new (rebuilt?) clutch discs other than Kanter and A/B (and their associated eBay stores)? I've tried searching the big-name store sites for discs, even for later model Plymouths up to '56 but haven't found anything.

 

2) Is Tennessee Clutch in Nashville still a good vendor for a rebuilt disc?

 

3) Is it necessary to pull the oil pan on the 218 to gain access to the flywheel bolts if it needs refacing? I just had the pan off...........

 

Thanks in advance!

Edited July 30, 2019 by Sam Buchanan
amended title

[Plymouthy Adams]

before looking to a new clutch...look at a few other components that tend to throw things out of whack/alignment....broken/worn/crushed motor mounts...rear shackle bushings and or the shackles themselves worn out....

[Sam Buchanan]

Must admit I hadn't considered sacked out motor mounts but can see how that would let things flop around.

 

What is involved in replacing the rear mounts....can everything be left in place as the engine is jacked up just enough to slide in new mounts?

[Plymouthy Adams]

Not done a P15 personally.....I do recall it was a bit tight on my P18 changing out the rear mounts and it was just for the very reason I mentioned it here...chatter...when changed and with new shackle bushings my chatter was gone.....I will admit that both mounts and bushing were shot...so I elected to just do both in one operation.

[plymouthcranbrook]

If you do need a clutch assembly I bought the one for  my 52 Plymouth from these folks.

 

http://www.then-now-auto.com/

[soth122003]

Hey Sam,

When I changed my rear motor mounts, it was a bite in the backside. I can't remember if I pulled the bell housing, but I do know it was a very tight fit on the left side. The right side was fairly straight forward. But that left side was an SOB. I jacked the engine up and I believe the bell housing was hitting the bottom of the fire wall. The problem is the metal bushing w/washer attached to it, that goes thru the bushing was just a touch to long. If I remember correctly you have the bolt and washer going thru the bell housing flange, then the metal flange tube piece that goes thru the mount and under the bell housing flange and sits on the cross member. then under the cross member was the washer and nut attaching to the bolt. It's been over 5 years since I did this, so my memory is hazy. Or it my be my alzhiemers kicking in. (what where we talking about again?)

 

Joe Lee

[Sam Buchanan]

4 hours ago, soth122003 said:

Hey Sam,

When I changed my rear motor mounts, it was a bite in the backside. I can't remember if I pulled the bell housing, but I do know it was a very tight fit on the left side. The right side was fairly straight forward. But that left side was an SOB. I jacked the engine up and I believe the bell housing was hitting the bottom of the fire wall. The problem is the metal bushing w/washer attached to it, that goes thru the bushing was just a touch to long. If I remember correctly you have the bolt and washer going thru the bell housing flange, then the metal flange tube piece that goes thru the mount and under the bell housing flange and sits on the cross member. then under the cross member was the washer and nut attaching to the bolt. It's been over 5 years since I did this, so my memory is hazy. Or it my be my alzhiemers kicking in. (what where we talking about again?)

 

Joe Lee

 

Joe, I peeked under the car today and yes, the left side looks tight, and the bolt head is very close to the clutch fork arm. I'll need to take a look at the bell housing clearance to see if the engine can be jacked up enough to insert the upper mount. Looks like I would need about twice the vertical clearance as the mount is long. This may stay on my low-priority to-do list..... 

 

 

[soth122003]

I was looking for that pic. It is a tight fit. I had to change mine because they were shot and I couldn't shift gears. As far as the chatter, check the clutch pedal play.

 

Joe Lee

[Sam Buchanan]

6 hours ago, soth122003 said:

I was looking for that pic. It is a tight fit. I had to change mine because they were shot and I couldn't shift gears. As far as the chatter, check the clutch pedal play.

 

Joe Lee

 

Pedal linkage should be good, I made the over-center spring tool and set everything up per the book. The clutch works fine just has some chatter if you use throttle to get rolling (starting on a hill).

[Sam Buchanan]

On 7/28/2019 at 8:38 PM, Plymouthy Adams said:

before looking to a new clutch...look at a few other components that tend to throw things out of whack/alignment....broken/worn/crushed motor mounts...rear shackle bushings and or the shackles themselves worn out....

 

To close the loop on this thread the rear engine mounts and spring shackle bushings have been replaced. This eliminated most of the clutch chatter, no work on the clutch is planned. Good to go.