Jump to content

Engine mounts


JSabah

Recommended Posts

I’m getting ready to drop the engine in (49 Plymouth woody). I have new engine mounts -upper and lower rear (2 sets) and a rectangular for the front bracket. My question has to do with the rear conical type .... my old pictures indicate a disc /large washer on the old rubber but I can’t seem to find them. Are they just washers? Are there additional ones on the bottom? Are the top ones necessary? I can’t understand where they went as I bad and tag everything which leads me to believe that they may have been bonded to the old rubber and that the new ones don’t have them - why I’m wondering if they are necessary 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 46-51 manual I have shows no top washers,  small end of the cone up. It shows a rubber insulator between the large metal washer and the  body of the mount and a legend washer on the left side only.  The note says to snug the insulator between the body and the washer noting not to crush the isolator but just snug.  It shows the bolt head at the top and the nut and lock washer on the bottom.  If it doesn't snug enough to contact the insulator and the mount body small washers should be placed between the insulator and the large washer.  Assuming a large metal washer goes on the bottom of the right side also.  Not one hundred % sure, the book only shows the left side.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any idea where I can get the spacers if I can’t find mine (although I’m pressure my car just had washers as the old was drastically compressed)? Andy Bernbaum doesn't seem to have them listed 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My understanding of the rear mounts is that the top spacer assembly that has the Crush tube attached when the engine & gearbox assembly weight is placed on the top of the top washer the weight compresses the upper rubber insulator enough so that the upper washer and tube pass thru the lower rubber insulator sufficently to allow the tube to bottom out on the upper side of the lower steel washer......when the bolt is then installed thru the "ear" of the bellhousing into the upper & lower insulator it is long enough so that when the loser spring washer and nut are installed they do up sufficently to tighten the whole assembly.......I have seen bolts used here that have a hole for a split pin and castellated nuts also used here......if you can't find a spacer you could use a large body washer of sufficent diameter to cover the upper flat surface of the upper insulator or even  make one out of 1/16th-1/8th sheet steel........there must be some sort of steel "washer" used otherwise with just the bellhousing "ear" on the rubber mount it will damage to rubber and fail.........the tube piece can be just a piece of 3/8" ID tube if all you have is the 2 rubber pieces, upper & lower, sit them together, measure the total thickness, add about 1/16th for the steel lower plate under the top rubber and make the tube about 1/8th less in total length to allow for the compression of the total assembly...............unfortunately the washers tend to stick to the old rubber insulators and get thrown out with the "babys bathwater".........lol.........dunno if any of this helps..............andyd.    

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well......I was sorta right.........lol..........thanks Don...........andyd

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Andydodge said:

Well......I was sorta right.........lol..........thanks Don...........andyd

I was going to say that I think you pic of a manual may be for a different year as my car had larger conical lower mounts as pictured above. 

 

It was 105 today (110 in the shop) so I didn’t feel like working too hard. Went to the local metal supplier and got some remnants for about $8 (4’ of stainless tube cost me less than they wanted to charge me to cut what I needed - so I have plenty for mistakes or if anyone needs any).  In any case, made my own spacers. Tube is 1/8” shy of the assembly -for compression once engine is in. Washers were cut out of 3/32” cold rolled steel. Painted for good measure. 

8A290AD7-6F4C-4C32-9111-3625C0C36CA1.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing to keep in mind on the front mount...

 

The stampings on the front mounts, in the corners where the stamping is a little "rippled" take a good hard look at it. I found that three different ones had slightly different shapes.

 

On one, I got an idle vibration that took months to run down. Even with a new front motor mount if the mount moved just a little (there is slop in the mount holes) the two can touch and cause a vibration when the engine is at idle. It drove me nuts!

 

Now on all of my cars I take my grinder and work those edges down a bit to make sure they cannot connect.

 

Just a little thing, but it can save you from pulling out your hair thinking you have an engine problem.

 

James.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think James is referring to the upper and lower bonded metal plates on the front engine mount.......from his description I take it that the corners of each metal piece vibrated on the chassis bracket and engine bracket and he ground the squared corners down..........at least thats what I've taken his post to mean..............lol..................andyd

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use