First drive 1939 D11 Luxury Liner sedan

[Erik V]

New to this forum, but not car forums in general. 

 

In September I was coming up on my 40th bday, and shopping for a nice MLC (Mid Life Crisis) car. I was looking at Vipers, Corvettes, Deloreans, Triumphs...and then took a long hard look at what those cars would be for me. I already have a couple fun fast cars between the wife and my's collection. So I lowered my expectations, and stumbled onto this Luxury Liner. I love the styling, and have always wanted something older than any of my friends. This car ran and drove, but has lots of electrical issues including zero exterior lights. I rebuilt the tail light assemblies and rewired the rear markers and brake lights. Still lots more to do, but nearly two months later I finally got to drive this thing farther than my mailbox. Drove gt to my local DMV for a title transfer and registration in my name. Can't wait to see where the next 40 years take us. 

[Andydodge]

Nice looking car...we need more pics.........lol...........just curious re the headlights.....does it have a later set of sealed beams installed in the original headlight buckets, 1939 was the last year of non sealed beam headlights and those original headlight lens are quite hard to come by........Mopar in 1939 had a different shaped headlight lens for all four brands as far as I am aware..........regards and welcome aboard from Australia.........Andy Douglas

[knuckleharley]

1 hour ago, Erik V said:

New to this forum, but not car forums in general. 

 

In September I was coming up on my 40th bday, and shopping for a nice MLC (Mid Life Crisis) car. I was looking at Vipers, Corvettes, Deloreans, Triumphs...and then took a long hard look at what those cars would be for me. I already have a couple fun fast cars between the wife and my's collection. So I lowered my expectations, and stumbled onto this Luxury Liner. I love the styling, and have always wanted something older than any of my friends. This car ran and drove, but has lots of electrical issues including zero exterior lights. I rebuilt the tail light assemblies and rewired the rear markers and brake lights. Still lots more to do, but nearly two months later I finally got to drive this thing farther than my mailbox. Drove gt to my local DMV for a title transfer and registration in my name. Can't wait to see where the next 40 years take us. 

Very pretty car.

 

No matter how well the brakes work right now,the car has been sitting and the wheel cylinders and master cylinder need to be rebuilt or replaced. This is one area where you just can not take a chance. Do it.

Edited November 22, 2018 by knuckleharley

[DrDoctor]

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Edited December 20, 2018 by DrDoctor

[Erik V]

It has bulbs behind the lenses. I know because one lense was glued together when I bought it, and it fell to the concrete floor while trying to take it apart. There is a guy named Larry back east that sold me a pair of NOS ones for around 200 shipped. 

 

The under dash wiring is a mess, and I'm constantly on the fence about converting to a clean 12 volt system. I'm not a purist, and eventually I hope to swap in a turbo 2.4 liter from a Neon SRT4, and convert to disk brakes. I went through the drums and wheel cylinders. Everything works now, but the left side is stronger when braking. Next goal is headlights and turn signals, then tires and wheels and a lowering job. Leaving the body as is other than patching the little rust in the trunk floor and driver side visor area. Car was left in a barn in California for 40 years, then 4 years in Spokane for an engine rebuild, then sold to the guy I got it from in Portland. That guy didnt do anything with it for a year. 

Edited November 22, 2018 by Erik V

[Erik V]

My favorite bits of the car are styling stuff. No post wing windows, suicide rear doors, butterfly hoods, etc. 

 

The top picture is how I found it. The red 55 GMC belongs to the seller's wife. Its a retired Coke delivery truck. Not pictured he had a 72 Blazer 4×4 survivor, and a pair of 59 Chevy cars (one wagon and one El Camino).

Edited November 22, 2018 by Erik V

[Los_Control]

I love it, and your photo answers a question I have going at the same time.

I was worried my truck divider was broke because it moved with the window like yours. 

Yeah that car looks great.

 

I doubt you need advice, I would suggest you repair and maintain it as close to stock for now, just keep it original.

Then as you drive it, update/upgrade what you think you need.

Original steering, suspension, brakes and the flathead motor, All working in good condition .... for some is not enough, for many is very fun and adequate.

Welcome to the forum and please share pics as you go 

[Erik V]

4 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

I love it, and your photo answers a question I have going at the same time.

I was worried my truck divider was broke because it moved with the window like yours. 

Yeah that car looks great.

 

I doubt you need advice, I would suggest you repair and maintain it as close to stock for now, just keep it original.

Then as you drive it, update/upgrade what you think you need.

Original steering, suspension, brakes and the flathead motor, All working in good condition .... for some is not enough, for many is very fun and adequate.

Welcome to the forum and please share pics as you go 

Thanks. Yes, I love it as it is right now. The wiring is going to be my biggest battle. I hate dealing with it, and no replacement kit exists that keeps the 6v. I love the foot button starter plunger and the 3-ott. The kingpins and tie rod ends have a small amount of play in them, as does the rearend. Hopefully they don't get worse and force upgrades. 

[Reg Evans]

59 minutes ago, Erik V said:

The wiring is going to be my biggest battle. I hate dealing with it, and no replacement kit exists that keeps the 6v. I love the foot button starter plunger and the 3-ott.  

 

You can get exact reproduction 6 volt wiring harnesses from Rhode Island Wiring or Y n Z's yesterdays parts.

[DrDoctor]

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Edited December 20, 2018 by DrDoctor

[Erik V]

2 hours ago, DrDoctor said:

Erik,

   We have a ’46 Plymouth Club Coupe, and when we got it, the wiring’s insulation was literally falling off!!! I purchased a “Git It Runnin’” wire harness from Ron Francis Wire Works. It can be used with either 6V or 12V, neg ground or pos ground. Our car was/is 6V/neg ground. The system went in incredibly easy, and on the few questions I did have, Kyle Bowers provided the answers quickly and concisely. The system’s been in the car for almost 6 years, and we’ve absolutely ZERO problems with it. I’ve used Ron Francis’ products on several other cars I’ve built – for myself, or for others – also with zero problems. Warmest regards to you . . . .

 

 

Thanks for the heads up. Cost is only about 50 more than the American 

Auto Wire 12v universal kit. Their website doesnt list what is included. When I redo the car I want everything new. My generator was rebuilt when the engine was, so converting to an alternator isnt mm my to do list unless I go 12 volts. 12 volts will be needed if I ever swap to a modern 4 cylinder engine. Side note, how long can I expect the freshly rebuilt flathead 6 to last? 

[Andydodge]

Your pics of the car highlight a couple of styling cues that were used on late 1939 Oz mopars up until the end of the 1948 models......here in Oz the 1st series 39 models Dodges & Plymouths used the 37/38 body shell with the new 1939 front sheet metal, then the 1939 Body shell was introduced with the appropriate front sheet metal......my 1940 Oz Dodge like all here was built by T J Richards, the Oz body building company that Chrysler bought in the 1930's and eventually morphed into the Chrysler Australia company........have attached a couple of pics of my 1940 Dodge D15D Sedan and its interesting to compare the styling to your 1939 car..........trunk lid, rear windows, side window opening and window pressings and of course the general body styling all very much reflect the 1939 US design but with lots of different accents..........I like your ideas re the brakes etc but am not sure about the neon engine...........lol...........but I'm a hotrodder so I shouldn't be too critical.......lol..........Andy Douglas    

[Erik V]

5 minutes ago, Andydodge said:

Your pics of the car highlight a couple of styling cues that were used on late 1939 Oz mopars up until the end of the 1948 models......here in Oz the 1st series 39 models Dodges & Plymouths used the 37/38 body shell with the new 1939 front sheet metal, then the 1939 Body shell was introduced with the appropriate front sheet metal......my 1940 Oz Dodge like all here was built by T J Richards, the Oz body building company that Chrysler bought in the 1930's and eventually morphed into the Chrysler Australia company........have attached a couple of pics of my 1940 Dodge D15D Sedan and its interesting to compare the styling to your 1939 car..........trunk lid, rear windows, side window opening and window pressings and of course the general body styling all very much reflect the 1939 US design but with lots of different accents..........I like your ideas re the brakes etc but am not sure about the neon engine...........lol...........but I'm a hotrodder so I shouldn't be too critical.......lol..........Andy Douglas    

 

 

I love your Brown! 

 

A neon SRT4 is capable of 350-450hp out of a physically small 2.4 turbo engine. 

 

I'll get some more photos tomorrow. I agree, lots of similar styling between them.

[Andydodge]

Erik, yeh the colour is a 1969-72/3 Oz Chrysler Valiant VIP and Chrysler by Chrysler colour called Mahogany Metallic, I'd think it would probably be a US colour of some sort originally tho' not sure, I last painted the car in 1978 in Acrylic Lacquer, however about 8yrs ago we removed a vinyl roof that I'd had installed in 1975 and a mates son redid the roof from the front screen to trunk lid in 2 pack and gave it an overall cut which has brought the paint back tho' there are heaps of stone chips etc, but it'll do me..heres a pic with the vinyl top, it was definately a 1970's hot rod..........lol........andyd.   

[Ajgkirkwood]

amazing!

 

[Erik V]

7 hours ago, Andydodge said:

Erik, yeh the colour is a 1969-72/3 Oz Chrysler Valiant VIP and Chrysler by Chrysler colour called Mahogany Metallic, I'd think it would probably be a US colour of some sort originally tho' not sure, I last painted the car in 1978 in Acrylic Lacquer, however about 8yrs ago we removed a vinyl roof that I'd had installed in 1975 and a mates son redid the roof from the front screen to trunk lid in 2 pack and gave it an overall cut which has brought the paint back tho' there are heaps of stone chips etc, but it'll do me..heres a pic with the vinyl top, it was definately a 1970's hot rod..........lol........andyd.   

 

What a cool car. Where do all of these kinds of cars hide down under? When we visited Melbourne and Sydney a couple years ago it was all utes and skylines. 

[DrDoctor]

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Edited December 20, 2018 by DrDoctor

[Andydodge]

Erik.........I lived in Sydney till 1992 then moved 800kms up the coast to South Grafton & have been here since..........theres plenty of hotrods in Sydney and restored cars also..........just gotta know where to look........lol............I bought this car in 1971 as a parts car for the 1940 Oz Dodge Coupe I had, but as this car was complete down to the hubcaps, owners manul and workshop manual I decided to restore it , however the dropkick that I paid to recondition the engine  didn't so I decided to hotrod it and thats how its been since mid 1973..........318 Poly, auto, 4 wheel discs etc.........andyd  

[brian b]

Dr Doctor asked if using sealed beams behind the original heart shaped 39 lenses compromises the beam. The answer is yes. I have this arrangement on my 39, and the headlights are poor as far as throwing a beam over the road surface.  I think the two lenses work against each other.  What I've been looking to do is find a pair of sealed beam headlights with plain glass lenses, hopefully a modern hi intensity bulb.  Hoping that will work, just haven't found the sealed beam I'm looking for.  If it doesn't, Ill change from sealed beams to halogen bulbs in original housings.  I almost never have the car out after dark,  so the project isn't at the top of the list.  If any of the members of the list are familiar with a plain lens sealed beam as described, I could use the recommendation.

                                                                                                                                                                           thanks,

                                                                                                                                                                                 brian b

[knuckleharley]

30 minutes ago, brian b said:

Dr Doctor asked if using sealed beams behind the original heart shaped 39 lenses compromises the beam. The answer is yes. I have this arrangement on my 39, and the headlights are poor as far as throwing a beam over the road surface.  I think the two lenses work against each other.  What I've been looking to do is find a pair of sealed beam headlights with plain glass lenses, hopefully a modern hi intensity bulb.  Hoping that will work, just haven't found the sealed beam I'm looking for.  If it doesn't, Ill change from sealed beams to halogen bulbs in original housings.  I almost never have the car out after dark,  so the project isn't at the top of the list.  If any of the members of the list are familiar with a plain lens sealed beam as described, I could use the recommendation.

                                                                                                                                                                           thanks,

                                                                                                                                                                                 brian b

I have seen some foreign cars with clear headlights behind glass. Mostly British,but that doesn't mean there aren't others. Seems like all the older Jags had clear headlights,but I could be wrong.

[Andydodge]

Brian, I'd try the halogen bulbs first as that would be the least change to start with but still using the original reflectors and lens.........also how are the reflectors?........a mate had 39 Plymouth and had the reflectors re silvered/silver plated and with even the original bulbs and 6volts there was a marked improvement...............andyd.

[brian b]

Hi Andydodge,

 

Right now I have sealed beam buckets and mounts from a Jeep, modified to bolt to the three threaded holes in the fender, that the stock reflectors bolted up to.  I have a set of stock reflectors, but as you mentioned,  good silvering makes all the difference, and mine look like old tarnished silverware.  I wondered if the chrome powdercoating would work, as I'm guessing re silvering isn't cheap.  Thats why I thought I'd start with the  clear sealed beams.  I will also need a good relay to operate halogens,  Holley the carb people recently released a decent looking one that would work.  BTW,  your sedan is terrific.  

 

                                                                                                                                                                    brian b

[desoto1939]

There isa better process now instead of resilvering there isa guy that uses a modern plating system that is used on operating room light and it is a special coating that will never dull. The reflectors need to be nickel plated and polished and then he will coat them for $75 and they never dull and are bright like a modern headlight.  contact   Bill at uvirainc@gmail.com  This is the company that I talking about from above here is the information on the process directly from Bill.

 

Headlights 2 (3).pdfHeadlights 2 (3).pdf

 

Rich Hartung

Edited November 24, 2018 by desoto1939

[DrDoctor]

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Edited December 20, 2018 by DrDoctor

[Erik V]

Took her out again today. Wipers don't work, and I was racing the sunset (only the brake lights work). She doesnt have excellent braking power which I know since I just went through the right side. Still a blast to drive.