'53 Dodge Junkyard Project

[blue71c]

I've had this car for 5 years now and never really had time to work on it. It's a '53 Dodge Meadowbrook with a 230 c.i. flathead 6 and a 3 speed manual transmission. I bought it from a junkyard pretty much complete minus the front seat and some broken trim. The motor was locked up and the floor has holes in it but it's pretty much all there. I figured I would post my progress on here in hopes that I could get some advice along the way. I still don't have much time to work on it but I try to do a little bit each week. I've got the motor and trans out and I've taken 5 of the 6 pistons out which will need to be replaced as well as most of the engine parts I'm sure. I'll try to post pictures as I go. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
Thanks.

[pflaming]

Many of the forum members from Wisconsin drink beer. You might start there. LOL Welcome. 

[blue71c]

3 hours ago, pflaming said:

Many of the forum members from Wisconsin drink beer. You might start there. LOL Welcome. 

 

Already on it! 

 

Edited October 1, 2018 by blue71c

[blue71c]

 

[blue71c]

[blue71c]

[blue71c]

[blue71c]

[blue71c]

[blue71c]

[blue71c]

[classiccarjack]

Did you get the engine the rest of the way apart?

[blue71c]

I've got one piston left and the valve train. Then off to the machine shop. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

unfortunately, those pics reflect a good number of high mileage flatheads....

[blue71c]

Time for a rebuild. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

do not trust the fact that the machine shop has cleaned the block after machining process and returned to you...this has been the down fall of a number of rebuilds.  Super clean the block and internal passages thoroughly...Pull your oil galley plugs for best results...At the most let the shop set  your new cam bearings, you can handle the rest of the build for yourself at home AND if you have the installing tool for the cam bearings..then you can even do that yourself....clean is a main factor in longevity.

[kencombs]

Let me second this.  Once a block has been vatted or cleaned in an oven, the oil is gone.  But there will be remnants in the form of sand like granules all through the engine.I think that is due to carbon particles, combustion byproducts, that have bypassed the rings and the oil carries it everywhere.  That, in the case of the oven cleaning processes, it's ash.  IMO, that is a process that shouldn't be used.   I've seen the results of engines assembled without properly flushing all the passages.  Not pretty.  Bearings had scoring overall surfaces in just a few minutes run time.

Mine will be cleaned by a long soak in my little home vat and a lot of pressure washer work with all plugs out.  Followed by gun cleaning brushes, solvent and air.

[classiccarjack]

1 hour ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

do not trust the fact that the machine shop has cleaned the block after machining process and returned to you...this has been the down fall of a number of rebuilds.  Super clean the block and internal passages thoroughly...Pull your oil galley plugs for best results...At the most let the shop set  your new cam bearings, you can handle the rest of the build for yourself at home AND if you have the installing tool for the cam bearings..then you can even do that yourself....clean is a main factor in longevity.

My second attempt to respond...  Sigh

 

I agree 100%, make sure that you purchase a engine brush kit to clean out the oil passages.  Worth every penny spent!  Run the brush through the crankshaft oil holes also. 

 

I use a bucket with Dawn, hot water, and a couple of Tide pods tossed in it.  After I scrub everything, I use a power washer to blast through every orifice, nook, and cranny...  Make sure that the water streams out the opposite ends of the oil galleys.  If it doesn't stream out, investigate as to why...

[classiccarjack]

You will be amazed at how much crap comes out of the block...

[blue71c]

I have it soaking in a tub of Mean Green degreaser with a pump flowing through all the holes, would that work after machining or should I use something else? 

[classiccarjack]

On 10/1/2018 at 4:42 PM, blue71c said:

I have it soaking in a tub of Mean Green degreaser with a pump flowing through all the holes, would that work after machining or should I use something else? 

Buy engine brushes to scrub it out.  The kits come in various sizes and lengths to ensure that you get the oil passages cleaned out.

 

Here is one example:

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-61820?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-moroso&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0dHdBRDEARIsAHjZYYCkzmLV_LFb8E01egTIOMZ1QV9D0ZSoaW03nE-tdzfPpIq8XNfUdEoaAp__EALw_wcB

[Plymouthy Adams]

20 minutes ago, classiccarjack said:

Buy engine brushes to scrub it out.  The kits come in various sizes and lengths to ensure that you get the oil passages cleaned out.

 

Here is one example:

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-61820?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-moroso&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0dHdBRDEARIsAHjZYYCkzmLV_LFb8E01egTIOMZ1QV9D0ZSoaW03nE-tdzfPpIq8XNfUdEoaAp__EALw_wcB

little expensive I think but those work....

[classiccarjack]

7 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

little expensive I think but those work....

I know that more affordable brands are out there, as well as smaller bore brushes.  But worth every penny....

[Plymouthy Adams]

for sure.....and one needs always to shop...often these can be had locally and no wait for shipping....I am glad you posted the picture, don't get me wrong...folks can see the style set they need and can shop accordingly.    These are worth every bit of the highest cost tool in your toolbox when it comes to cleaning the block.  

[blue71c]

I'll start with this:

https://m.harborfreight.com/9-piece-tube-pipe-nylon-brush-set-90631.html

Then move up to this:

https://m.harborfreight.com/Engine-Brush-Kit-20-Pc-63732.html

It will eventually end up at a shop to be machined and cleaned then I'll clean it up again.