Lou Earle Posted August 30, 2007 Report Posted August 30, 2007 I do not knowo but it cleans it out it is the same vat as they use to "boil out " radiators. Sounds to me like he just don't want to do it. Loggers around here are always tearing their tanks on snags in woods etc and they get used ones an have them boiled all the time. My radiator man does about 2 to 5 tanks a week. Also the guy in Macon Ga does the same but on larger volume. Lou Quote
55 Fargo Posted August 30, 2007 Author Report Posted August 30, 2007 Thanx Lou, I just ran the gardewn hose in her a bit just to see what happend, man did a lot of crud come out of there, let me tell you.Winnipeg has at least 10 rad shops, I am sure one of them will boil it out for me......Fred Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 30, 2007 Report Posted August 30, 2007 In some cases the repair of the tank can be very time intensive and still leave you a so-so tank..for what it is worth and IMHO I think I would get a couple estimates from those in your area regarding total cost and compare that with a know usable new poly tank for 215.00 of course I know the duty across the border may add a bit of jingle..somenthing you will have to weigh... Quote
james curl Posted August 31, 2007 Report Posted August 31, 2007 About 20 years ago the in-cab tank on my 55 Chevrolet pick up developed a bad case of rust through because I placed a layer of very dense foam between the tank and the floor of the pick up. I never considered condensation from the outside of the tank soaking the foam and rusting the bottom of the tank. Went to my local parts house and purchased an epoxy resin and glass cloth gas tank repair kit. The tank is still in use today with no problems. Quote
knuckleharley Posted August 31, 2007 Report Posted August 31, 2007 Phoned the oldest rad shop in Winnipeg, it's been in business 75 years, owner says, no point boiling it out, the acid bath he says he only will do if he is re-lining the tank.What do you get done Lou at the rad shop, I would think you ae having it boiled out with a mild detergent of sorts, or is it a mild acid bath.............Fred Nothing beats vinegar for cleaning out a old gas tank. Eats rust like nobody's business. Best of all,you can pour it right over weeds to kill them when you dump the tank. Buy it by the gallon at any grocery store cheap. Just make sure you clean the tank out good afterwards with hot soapy water,and be ready to coat it the instant it dries because it will start rusting again right away. Quote
55 Fargo Posted August 31, 2007 Author Report Posted August 31, 2007 Hi Knuckleharley, can you explain the process, do you fill the tank right up, or do you just fill the bottom. I have a lot of pin holes on the top of the tank, and one tiny pinhole on the bottom. Should these be repaired with JB Weld first. Or should I clean out the tank, then line , then fix holes. What brand of liner should I use, and how much, what about the pick-up screen, do I need to blow air into as the liner dries. How do you clean out the tubing to the pick-up screen. I don't mind doing this job, as my labor is cheaper;) , and I would do a thorough job, as I have a vested interest in the tank. But spending $215.00 plus tax and shipping, may save a lot of headaches:eek: , will decide in near future.......Thanx Fred Nothing beats vinegar for cleaning out a old gas tank. Eats rust like nobody's business. Best of all,you can pour it right over weeds to kill them when you dump the tank. Buy it by the gallon at any grocery store cheap.Just make sure you clean the tank out good afterwards with hot soapy water,and be ready to coat it the instant it dries because it will start rusting again right away. Quote
knuckleharley Posted August 31, 2007 Report Posted August 31, 2007 Rockwood wrote: >>Hi Knuckleharley, can you explain the process, do you fill the tank right up, or do you just fill the bottom. << You can,but I am too cheap to buy that much vinegar. If it is a 18 gallon tank,I buy 10 gallons,pour it in,and let it sit 24 hours. Then I turn the tank over and let it sit for another 24 hours before pouring it out. Pour it out into a container you can save it in so that if all the rust isn't gone you can repeat the process after screening it through a filter like a old t-shirt to remove the old crud and rust flakes. >>I have a lot of pin holes on the top of the tank, and one tiny pinhole on the bottom.<< IMHO,you should just take your sending unit out and throw your tank away. If it's that thin it's not worth working on. It's especially not worth flushing with vinegar because it eats rust,and you are doing to discover 10 times as many pinholes once it is done eating away the rust,and several really big holes. In fact I throw the tanks away if I discover pinholes AFTER cleaning them out. I wouldn't even waste my time messing with one that had them before I got started. >>. But spending $215.00 plus tax and shipping, may save a lot of headaches:eek: , will decide in near future.......Thanx Fred<< Spend the money. You will be glad that you did. What you have now is junk and there is no fixing it. Sooner or later the bottom is going to fall out of that tank and you are going to discover if you can stop your car and get out of it before you burn up with it. My best advise to you is to buy a poly tank if one is available for your car. That way you will never have to worry about this in the future. Quote
55 Fargo Posted August 31, 2007 Author Report Posted August 31, 2007 There are 3 types available from Tanksinc, there is a 41 to 48 Furd poly tank, it is $215, there is a steel for 41 to 48 PDCD (Mopar) tank it is $215, or the Stainless is $350. Plus shipping, taxes and exchange since I live in Canada. The Canadian Dollar is about 95 cents US, so not bad...........Fred Quote
knuckleharley Posted August 31, 2007 Report Posted August 31, 2007 There are 3 types available from Tanksinc, ... there is a steel for 41 to 48 PDCD (Mopar) tank it is $215, ... The plain steel tank that they sell is supposed to be galvanized on the inside like the original tanks where,so they won't need to be coated on the inside for decades. Eventually the gasoline "sloshing" around in the tank as you drive the car around will wash off the galvanizing. Then it starts rusting. This is what happened with your original tanks. You would probably never notice it on a car that is driven regularly because the same action that washed off the galvanized finish will wash off any new rust that develops while it is still microscopic. The trouble starts when the car sits for a few years and the condensation in the gas tank gets the rust going. This is why so many gas tanks are rusted out at the top more than they are at the bottom. Quote
Brad Lustig Posted August 31, 2007 Report Posted August 31, 2007 For the cost of 10 gallons of vinegar, you can probably buy a stronger acid that would work much quicker. Heck, you might even be able to get some acetic acid and make your own vinegar. I like phosphoric acid because it removes and converts rust. From Wikipedia Rust removal Phosphoric acid may be used by direct application to rusted iron, steel tools or surfaces to convert iron(III) oxide (rust) to a water soluble phosphate compound. It is usually available as a greenish liquid, suitable for dipping (acid bath), but is more generally used as a component in a gel, commonly called naval jelly. As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces. Care must be taken to avoid acid burns of the skin and especially the eyes, but the residue is easily diluted with water. When sufficiently diluted it can even be nutritious to plant life, containing the essential nutrients phosphorus and iron. It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer". It should not be directly introduced into surface water such as creeks or into drains, however. After treatment, the reddish-brown iron oxide will be converted to a black iron phosphate compound coating that may be scrubbed off. Multiple applications of phosphoric acid may be required to remove all rust. The resultant black compound can provide further corrosion resistance (such protection is somewhat provided by the superficially similar Parkerizing and blued electrochemical conversion coating processes.) After application and removal of rust using phosphoric acid compounds, the metal should be oiled (if to be used bare, as in a tool) or appropriately painted, most durably by using a multiple coat process of primer, intermediate, and finish coats. Quote
Brad Lustig Posted August 31, 2007 Report Posted August 31, 2007 Also, if you really want to get rid of some rust, muriatic (aka hydrochloric acid) is going to really eat it up, but you could remove more metal than you want and it's harder to stop the reaction. That's why I like the phosphoric. Quote
knuckleharley Posted August 31, 2007 Report Posted August 31, 2007 For the cost of 10 gallons of vinegar, you can probably buy a stronger acid that would work much quicker. ... True,but it is dangerous to handle and you can't just pour it out on the ground. This is not true of vinegar,and it eats rust just as good. Quote
Allan Faust Posted August 31, 2007 Report Posted August 31, 2007 In some cases the repair of the tank can be very time intensive and still leave you a so-so tank..for what it is worth and IMHO I think I would get a couple estimates from those in your area regarding total cost and compare that with a know usable new poly tank for 215.00 of course I know the duty across the border may add a bit of jingle..somenthing you will have to weigh... Tim we can get them up here duty free.... I got a buddy in Toronto that has an affiliate in the US.... price a little different, but no hassles, and in both mine and rocks case, pay only 1 tax..... Allan Quote
Allan Faust Posted August 31, 2007 Report Posted August 31, 2007 There are 3 types available from Tanksinc, there is a 41 to 48 Furd poly tank, it is $215, there is a steel for 41 to 48 PDCD (Mopar) tank it is $215, or the Stainless is $350. Plus shipping, taxes and exchange since I live in Canada. The Canadian Dollar is about 95 cents US, so not bad...........Fred Fred, TanksInc tanks can be got by my buddy in TO and they have a model for the 49-52 that isn't on the site..... Allan Quote
Allan Faust Posted August 31, 2007 Report Posted August 31, 2007 And BTW Fred.... I was going to do mine like yours as well, however, 1. the bottom feed filter etc are illegal (unless you use your original tank, etc.... same laws apply as seat belts) Now things are fed from the top... 2. the bottom filter could cause you more problems than help... 3. I'm buying mine to save as many headaches as I can..... new tank, sending unit, fuel pump, filters....etc..... (I'm not going to pump in a ton of cash on my rebuild motor to have problems due to a gunky and rusty tank). My opinion of course.... Allan Quote
toddbracik Posted August 31, 2007 Report Posted August 31, 2007 Fred,TanksInc tanks can be got by my buddy in TO and they have a model for the 49-52 that isn't on the site..... Allan Wowee, you guys just solved my gas tank problem. Thanks. Quote
55 Fargo Posted August 31, 2007 Author Report Posted August 31, 2007 Allan, any idea how much the Tanksinc, 1941 to 48 Mopar Tank is in plain steel. It's $215.00 US in Minnesota, plus about $75 to ship it, with the GST and exchange, my guess would be about 325 to 350 dollars. If it can be got by a distributor in Tranna (Toronto), it may be less expensive, and shipping from TO to Winnipeg is cheap and quick............Fred Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 31, 2007 Report Posted August 31, 2007 Fred..are there any rod and custom shop/supply houses in your neck of the woods..even here in my area probalby a 100 miles away...but still better than customs and mail etc etc.. Quote
55 Fargo Posted August 31, 2007 Author Report Posted August 31, 2007 Yah there are a number of shops in Winnipeg, they don't cater to 40s Mopar unfortunately. I do have a carnut I work with, he has a broker and PO BOX in Pembina ND, right on the border, he said I could ship through him, if I like...............Fred Quote
Lou Earle Posted August 31, 2007 Report Posted August 31, 2007 On the issue of rust- My experience on about 10 tanks is not that they are rusted on the bottom- if that is the case is is usually to late. The rust is on the top of the tank that really causes problems. Why? Because the water on the bottom is in solid form and usually covered by gas and therefore not evaporating into the air in the tank. but air it the tank condenses on the top or the taken causing rust up there then it microscopic rust get knocked down by the gas sloshing. around . I have opened a 48 ford tank that was filled with gas in 1968-documented- and there was some water in the bottom of tank - maybe a cup full and nor real rust. But the top inside the tank was rife with rust. I cleaned it and fiberglassed the top there (were no pinholes so no JB weld used). Been fine for 14 years. So be sure and check the top that is where most problems occur if the car had gas in it when parked or if still running the gas sloshing I think protects it somewhat. By t eh way I have 3 1931 A model tank with NO galvanizing coating and they are fine Lou Quote
Allan Faust Posted August 31, 2007 Report Posted August 31, 2007 Fred, Sent you a PM..... I don't think its as expensive as you think..... Allan Quote
Allan Faust Posted August 31, 2007 Report Posted August 31, 2007 Tim, I got a big dealer in the Toronto area that since I've found has solved a lot of my buddies problems, with less hassle dealing with the border, since he handles all that stuff.... and price wise, with all the extras doing cross border, at my dealers, it may cost the same or $10-$15 bucks more to here.... without hassles..... Allan Quote
47Plymouth Posted September 1, 2007 Report Posted September 1, 2007 I had my tank Rhino lined on the outside and no more leaks. Jerome Quote
55 Fargo Posted September 1, 2007 Author Report Posted September 1, 2007 Thanx Allan, telephoned your contact in TO, left a message, will let you know what happens.............Fred Quote
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