Need help identifying an engine part

[Uberchin]

Hey guys, I am trying to figure out what this part is called, what it does, and why it has an electrical connection? Additionally, I can't get the screw that attaches the electrical connection to neither tighten or loosen; it just free spins which is why is wedged a zip tie in between to make the connection tight. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

 

[P15-D24]

Automatic choke

[desoto1939]

It is called a sisson automatic choke. The wire runs off the starter selinoid. There is a bimetal plate under the main body of the choke. The choke is  triggered when the car is started and then the heat fro the manifold heatss the bimetal plate and then this permits the choke to release itself.

 

I have a manual of this choke and the setup for it.

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.comj

[DJ194950]

Choke unit as shown Should not even have the add part beyond the screw on the choke unit. If that is the machine screw (bolt) you are referring to that does not loosen nor tighten then you will have to remove the choke unit for a repair. May be very hard to do because of rusted mounting bolts!

Best bet may be to drill out the screw and drill  with a  oversized  hole and tap hole to larger size.

I guess I should have asked --does it work? No need for the spring in the picture if working properly. Adjustment procedures are in the technical area on the top of forums page.

Best of luck,

DJ

[Uberchin]

I really appreciate the quick response. I added the thin clear zip tie underneath the head of the screw head to ensure that the eye connector makes good contact. I'm not sure how to tell if the choke works. (The previous owner installed a manual choke on the colored to the right of the heater fan knob) 

Is there any way I can get a copy of the manual for the auto choke? I'd love to try and repair it if I can get it removed. Thanks.

I'm trying to get this vehicle back up to proper working condition the best I can. I have the maintenance manual ordered, so that should help. The previous owner was a good friend of mine in my Car Club that passed away recently  (day of the solar eclipse)  His widow was nice enough to sell it to me for or a great price.

[Uberchin]

Here's a pic of the car before and after a good cleaning; it had been sitting in his garage for several years. 1947 Chrysler Windsor 4Dr.

 

[Uberchin]

After

[P15-D24]

Check 

 and 

 

[Uberchin]

Thanks 

[_shel_ny]

Be careful removing the nuts that hold the choke in place. 

It is very easy to twist the stud off.

I cut/split mine so that I would not need to drill out broken studs.

You can test the choke solenoid by running a power wire directly from the battery to the screw with the wire attached. You should hear it click , and see it move the arm with the rod attached each time you touch power to the screw.

Be sure the car is in neutral, as the wire currently attached to the choke will apply power to the starter. May cause some movement. Best to unhook it at the starter end to eliminate that.

 

You may need a new gasket under the choke. The bi-metallic bar should be isolated from the manifold for proper choke operation.

[desoto1939]

26 minutes ago, _shel_ny said:

Be careful removing the nuts that hold the choke in place. 

It is very easy to twist the stud off.

I cut/split mine so that I would not need to drill out broken studs.

You can test the choke solenoid by running a power wire directly from the battery to the screw with the wire attached. You should hear it click , and see it move the arm with the rod attached each time you touch power to the screw.

Be sure the car is in neutral, as the wire currently attached to the choke will apply power to the starter. May cause some movement. Best to unhook it at the starter end to eliminate that.

 

You may need a new gasket under the choke. The bi-metallic bar should be isolated from the manifold for proper choke operation.

I noticed that you have a spring attached to the metal arm that pushes the choke throttle closed onthe carb.  At that point on the choke arm should be a metal rod that goes throught the hole and then connects at the top of the carb to the choke plate.  I also like the suggestion of splitting the nut and then putting on brass nuts also use antizies lubricant on the threads.

Rich Hartung

[Bingster]

That's quite a cleaning up!

[Uberchin]

Thanks guys. I like the idea of cutting the old nut off. Fortunately, I'll only need to do one of mine since it looks like the previous owner sheared one of the studs off already trying to remove the choke for repair/replacement. By the way, does anyone have a good used Sisson Choke they are willing to separate With? Thanks again.

[_shel_ny]

10 hours ago, Bingster said:

That's quite a cleaning up!

If you are speaking of my clean up, it is actually 2 different vehicles (clue being choke arm direction, and mounting location with respect to the carb)

Top pic my  Meadowbrook.  Lower pics my D-24

[Branded]

12 hours ago, Uberchin said:

Thanks guys. I like the idea of cutting the old nut off. Fortunately, I'll only need to do one of mine since it looks like the previous owner sheared one of the studs off already trying to remove the choke for repair/replacement. By the way, does anyone have a good used Sisson Choke they are willing to separate With? Thanks again.

There's a NOS Sisson choke on E Bay for sale. Don't forget to replace the gasket/ insulator under it.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xsisson+choke.TRS0&_nkw=sisson+choke&_sacat=0

[chrysler1941]

And here is a link for the gasket 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/142050064283?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

[_shel_ny]

19 hours ago, Uberchin said:

Thanks guys. By the way, does anyone have a good used Sisson Choke they are willing to separate With? Thanks again.

Be sure to select the correct choke if you purchase one. 

2 different styles depending upon mounting location.

[MackTheFinger]

On 11/25/2017 at 9:19 PM, Uberchin said:

After

That's a great looking car and one of my favorites.. 

[_shel_ny]

On 11/26/2017 at 12:19 PM, desoto1939 said:

I noticed that you have a spring attached to the metal arm that pushes the choke throttle closed onthe carb.  At that point on the choke arm should be a metal rod that goes throught the hole and then connects at the top of the carb to the choke plate. 

Rich Hartung

Spring was a PO thing. When reinstalled it got the proper rod, and clips

[desoto1939]

uberchin sent you a PM about a good used and tested sisson choke.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

[Uberchin]

Thanks for all the help fellas. I'm new to old Mopar but I own a few other classics; including an Edsel Wagon which has its own unique parts and challenges to keep her on the road.