Lou Earle Posted August 4, 2007 Report Posted August 4, 2007 Been puttering around on the 48 convertible. Went to start it and it was acting like I had12 volt cables and a weak battery and I have always had trouble firing it off but after fires runs great. I touched the ground cable and it was very warm and touched the bolt on the thermostat housing that I had grounded to - very hot. Pulled the bolt out and took a look bolt rusty, head and washer rusty, threads rusty. Ground off some of the housing to shinny metal cleaned the cable hole wire brushed the threads re installed and WOW !! Real cranking power!! I am sure I am not grounding in the best place: but I am wondering- if you ground the battery to the original head bolt is that really a good ground? Think about how much rust is on those bolts when you take them out. And how often does anyone remove the ground and clean it- not me except when reminded -- like today. I am thinking about removing the stud that holds the spark wire loom and carb air filter using a longer stud or bolt and grounding it there. Opinions? Thoughts? Anyway every time I work on a car now AI am going to check the ground and improve it . Lou Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted August 4, 2007 Report Posted August 4, 2007 I ground my battery on one of the starter mounting bolts . I got this tip came from Vintage Power Wagons sales catolog . Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted August 4, 2007 Report Posted August 4, 2007 Like that idea about the grounding cabel to the starting motor! Will try! Thanks Jon Quote
1just4don Posted August 4, 2007 Report Posted August 4, 2007 I would think its important also to ground the body or firewalll with a BIGGER grounding strap than sometimes used and sometimes forgotten to replace,,or forgotten at all.. AS well as remove them and see if too much paint under them,dirty, rusty, etc. Lots of things to NOT work right without it. Might even add another on the other side. Twice too much works better than half of what you thought you had!! Good tip about grounding battery to starter bolt,,,that HAS to cut down on circuit length a BUNCH!!! --just don-- Quote
greg g Posted August 4, 2007 Report Posted August 4, 2007 my ground wire goes to the generator bracket bolt. I believe that is a better ground than a head bolt, as there is nothing in that locationa to start corrosion. Quote
Lou Earle Posted August 5, 2007 Author Report Posted August 5, 2007 I ground my battery on one of the starter mounting bolts . I got this tip came from Vintage Power Wagons sales catolog . I have also heard this but I wonder if that is now true- because of the location of our batteries. I first learned of this on A model Fords and on all old cars that had battery under the seat AND grounded to the frame- a poor ground at best in the A ford's. But conciser this :If you have to run a a ground 3 feet to the starter from the battery what is the difference? Sure the location is close to the starter but since you have mearly transfered the distance to the cable what is the end result? I light of the obvious- good ground to the engine anywhere- Solves the problem because the engine is well grounded to the starter. I am wondering if ,as with a lot of things' originally the ground close to starter actually started as move of the ground from frame to engine and the starter bolt was the easiest? Do not know. I know went out ans the re grounded Plymouth fired right up today. Lou Quote
Don Coatney Posted August 5, 2007 Report Posted August 5, 2007 Like Greg I am grounded to the genny bracket. I believe this was the way it came from the factory. I have also added an engine to body ground strap (not sure if this is original). Quote
Norm's Coupe Posted August 5, 2007 Report Posted August 5, 2007 As Don Coatney's picture shows, the battery was grounded to the generator bracket, in that exact location. Also shows that in the parts books. I guess the extra ground strap doesn't hurt anything. However, I don't use an extra strap to the body and I have no grounding problems. I think one major problem that people have with grounding on the cars is the paint. In the quest to make everything look clean and neat (nothing wrong with that), everything gets painted. Then when you try to ground some item on the car, the paint interferes with the ground. You should clean that paint off where ever you try to ground something for a better metal to metal contact. Quote
martybose Posted August 5, 2007 Report Posted August 5, 2007 I had previously had #00 cables made up for the battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter cables. When I had to make up a new ground cable, I started out with a #00 cable to the starter bolt which also had a #4 pigtail that is bolted to the body. There is also a separate #4 pigtail that goes from the same starter bolt to the clutch pivot bolt on the frame. I think I can safely say that my 47 is well grounded! Marty Quote
Lou Earle Posted August 5, 2007 Author Report Posted August 5, 2007 What I just did was run a # 10 ground from the pos side of the battery to the radiator frame using one of the radiator mounting bolts as the attachment point. I notice it made a difference in the brightness of my test light so I guess I improved the ground. Also just checked my 50 & 54 parts Plymouth parts cars and they both have the head bolt with the bolt going into the head bolt set up as the ground cable but my Chrysler engine has Dons set up with the studded situation on the gen bolt. Probably used one on plym and different on Chrysler??I do not know but do know they made sure they had good solid ground! Quote
grey beard Posted August 5, 2007 Report Posted August 5, 2007 This discussion may become a little confusing becuase some of us still use six volts while others . . . like the Don . . . are on twelve volts. The difference here that bears mention is the fact that "double ought" cable like Marty uses is nearly three times the diameter of normal twelve volt ground cables. Isn't there something morally wrong with bolting on a cable thicker than your index finger with a bolt only half that diameter? If you care enough to use the heavy six volt cable on your battery, my suggestion is that you ight not want to rely on any 5/16 or 3/8-inch coil or thermostat bolt. I also have a personal aversion to grounding batteries to bolts that thread into water jackets - just my own personal preference. Starter bolts are nice and heavy. So are other bell housing bolts. My own 218 block has a threaded hole that is unused, immediaat3ely below the center of the starter and above the oil pan. This hole is just waiting for a half-inch nc bolt. It is about four inches behind the oil pressure regulator, and IMHO works nicer than a starter bolt, cause it's never in the way when removing things. I also like to use an internal star pointed lock washers on ground straps. Lots of contact points for electrical connections. :) Quote
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