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Posted (edited)

Eastwood makes a Patina Preserver and a rust encapsulator that is in an aerosol can(rattle can). The patina preserver claims to preserve the finish for 12 months. The rust encapsulator penetrates the rust and tends to stop it for a time(not given). Being a California resident, rainy weather isn't a real issue and could mean that the preservation could last longer. Oxidation is an active chemical process meaning that as long as rust remains on the metal surface, the more oxidation that will occur. Another way that I have heard of preserving the finish was an application of linseed oil. This would tend to penetrate the rust down to the metal and maybe make your patina finish last longer without recoating. For sure, if you have deep flaking rust, I would advocate in removing it, possible replacing panels. I personally see no beauty in rusted out holes in the bodywork. Your feeling may be different so to each their own. Whatever panels get replaced, they can be chemically treated to promote rusting to catch up and blend with the other body panels. Everything I have read on the subject only speaks of preservation and indicates that it is not a permanent finish like paint would be. I have heard of other who clear coat it with urethane, but rust being an active process, the clear coat peels after a short time. There may be other methods people use with better results.

On the subject of rust I do have a way that can remove AND promote rust. It's an old trick called a molasses bath. 10 parts water to 1 part molasses. Leave it in 2 weeks and it strips rust to bare metal, Just take it out and pressure wash it. If you want rust, take bare metal, put it in for a week and take it out, let it dry. All the rust you could ever want.

Edited by johnsartain
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Posted (edited)

ACE and others have a product called Prep and Primer, by Jasco. It has no color and clear adheres to it. My clear over this product on my controversial patina, shows no sign of peeling after three years of application. 

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Edited by pflaming
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Posted
20 hours ago, 56 dodge c3 jobrated truck said:

 

Also I was able to straighten the kick panel. Not sure what it called but thats on the first pic.

That's called the floor :) it's just removable. You will also need to buy or make the wooden piece that goes behind it if that isn't there. 

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Posted
8 hours ago, pflaming said:

ACE and others have a product called Prep and Primer, by Jasco. It has no color and clear adheres to it. My clear over this product on my controversial patina, shows no sign of peeling after three years of application. 

 

... Totally cool. I used that product as well after my rust removal. It was necessary after the molasses bath I used it to stop flash rusting. With your's it was great that you had good sheetmetal. I couldn't see any dents in the picture.

Posted (edited)

First of all this is all the sheet metal work that I've got to do.......and the worst of it is on these 2 pics......1st is the rear of can 2nd is of the driver side door looking straight through to the bottom.

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Edited by 56 dodge c3 jobrated truck
Posted

If you need it I believe patch panels are available for both of those areas. 

Posted (edited)

I dont see why she wouldnt start... Change the fluids and rotate it by hand to make sure its not seized. After that, maybe a bit of Marvel Mystery Oil down the bores to help with the rings after a long hibernation.

Edited by 59bisquik
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Posted (edited)

You already mentioned the carb. The other thing I see is the oil filter canister has been removed and the oil lines are sticking up. You will need to either install the canister or pull the lines and install plugs in the block. Dont see the ignition coil either.

Edited by 59bisquik
Posted
2 minutes ago, 59bisquik said:

You already mentioned the carb. The other thing I see is the oil filter canister has been removed and the oil lines are sticking up. You will need to either install the canister or pull the lines and install plugs in the block. Dont see the ignition coil either.

coil on these is firewall mounted. besides the oil filter I see maybe 1 headbolt missing or broken and you'll need an air cleaner once you have a carb

Posted
12 minutes ago, 59bisquik said:

You already mentioned the carb. The other thing I see is the oil filter canister has been removed and the oil lines are sticking up. You will need to either install the canister or pull the lines and install plugs in the block. Dont see the ignition coil either.

Ok the ignition coil we do have as young ed did refer it is on the firewall. Is there a adapter where we could use a carb from a 277 or 318 engine for instance since we already have these 2 engines with the carbs. Since the 277 and 318 engines  are just sitting around I would love to trade someone for the parts we need if we have something they need. Since Ebay prices are too high for us. Considering our situation being on a fixed income if we cant find the parts cheap or affordable we might have to part out the truck.  Also from what it looks like this truck has a double drive line and its missing the back half where it connects to the rear end. Also the clutch pedal where it connects to the shaft where the brake pedal pivots from im not sure if anything else connects there or holds the clutch pedal in place. But everything seems to be intact.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Sorry for not posting for the past 2 weeks. Here is a update on our progress...... We have been very busy. Here is why.... My husband found another truck like ours in Tehachapi .  We have been to see the truck and basically we are in the process of buying it. It has all the parts we need. Also Also since ebay is a little on the pricey  side my husband has been doing some research on other sites to buy parts and found a site dcmclassics.com . The prices are a lot cheaper for new parts compared to ebays high priced used parts. Just keep a mental note not to buy any windows from there ebay is actually cheaper in that department. We are not trying to say anything bad about any other stores.  We are just comparing  dcm and ebay. So if anyone knows of any other stores with even cheaper prices please kindly let us know what they are. 

Posted

well Don um well pretty much what you dont see from the motor on above pics but i can be more specific if needed and drive line but just the back half cause we do have the main shaft and it needs about anout 2 ft im guessing to reach the rear axle. front drums and brake assembly including the back plates for both sides on front axle.

Posted

The truck is looking good. I really like the other one your looking at. As I have said before, I have always wanted a 2 ton pickup!

  • Like 1
Posted

If the windshield frame in the second truck is good then you have a small gold mine....;)

As to the driveshaft; have you called Big M or Wildcat?

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