Plymouthy Adams Posted July 23, 2017 Report Posted July 23, 2017 (edited) thanks so much for pointing out my error..I read one thing..typed another while getting all the specs out to you......you are right on the 4 ATDC I WILL EDIT THAT SO NOT TO CAUSE SOMEFUSION TO ANYONE........ Edited July 23, 2017 by Plymouthy Adams 3 Quote
thebeebe5 Posted July 24, 2017 Author Report Posted July 24, 2017 3 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said: Please read my post above again......! it is correct also for the 1937 PER MY PLYMOUTH REPAIR MANUAL...Jerry stated only that his BOOK did not go back that far....mine did, no second guessing Never saw it the frst time.... Several posts posted at once and I flat overlooked it. Great info, and thank you! Quote
thebeebe5 Posted July 24, 2017 Author Report Posted July 24, 2017 2 hours ago, BigDaddyO said: Looks like you need a cap for your grease cup. Here is what some joker did to his Model T grease cup. Have the cap!! It was just camera shy yesterday The whole process you all desribe makes sense. Learn something every day!! What color for the cap and cup? I was thinking a simple clear coat unless there's a specific color it should be... Quote
thebeebe5 Posted July 24, 2017 Author Report Posted July 24, 2017 7 hours ago, Flatie46 said: What paint did you use on the distributor? I found a VHT epoxy paint I like very well for such things. Self priming and pretty durable, used it on a transmission case and it impressed me. We use lots of Seymour paints, and this is the one I used on the distributor body: http://www.seymourpaint.com/product/hi-tech-enamels/ It holds up really well. Quote
thebeebe5 Posted July 24, 2017 Author Report Posted July 24, 2017 (edited) 4 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said: per my 1937 Plymouth repair manual, your distributor is spot on for factory....time at 4* ATDC, (EDIT FOR WRONG TIMING) .020 breaker gap, if setting by dwell will be 38* mechanical advance limits are;17-20 ounce breaker spring tension, .008 allowable wear in bushing for run out., condenser is .25 to .28mfd. mechanical advance limits are; 0 advance at 350 rpm, 3* advance at 400rpm, 6* advance at 950 rpm, 11* advance at 1850 vacuum advance starts in at 2* at 6.5 inch of vacuum, 11* at 14 inches of vacuum. 14mm spark plug thread with .025 spark gap. Now get out there, tune it and lay some rubber down the driveway Question regarding timing per your numbers.... Is the maximum mechanical advance 11°, and it should be all-in at 1850rpm? I'll definitely be mapping out my advance curve once the "beast" is up and running. Impossible to tell where those springs let the curve fall without a distributor machine, but can easily be done on the running car with a bit of effort.... Good information today everyone. Loads of thanks. Edited July 24, 2017 by thebeebe5 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 24, 2017 Report Posted July 24, 2017 if you have dial advance timing light and a sensitive tach it will not be hard to see the mechanical timing advance...you can see the vacuum come I with a hand pump and T in a vacuum gauge for to read it accurately...vacuum is adjustable..see your distributor section in the manual Testing Vacuum Advance.... 1 Quote
BigDaddyO Posted July 24, 2017 Report Posted July 24, 2017 3 hours ago, Niel Hoback said: Pack it with grease until it reaches the the shaft bearing. Fill it and then fill the cap and put it on one turn. Every thousand miles, turn it one turn in as part of your thousand mile lube and oil routine. No seal needed. Yeah, what he said. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted July 24, 2017 Report Posted July 24, 2017 (edited) as a small child growing up in the oil and gas fields that were there from the turn of the century, watch and listening to the big ole Bessimer engines that pumped the wells echoing in the moutains and watching the huge fly wheels turning and the many glass oilers on the sleeves and bearing...was a joy then, a blast to the past today...maybe not a Bessemer but of the same style and quick find of a good looking clean unit. Edited July 24, 2017 by Plymouthy Adams 1 Quote
Frank Elder Posted July 24, 2017 Report Posted July 24, 2017 https://picclick.com/CHRYSLER-DISTRIBUTOR-DATA-PLATE-DODGE-PLYMOUTH-DeSOTO-FARGO-181316342593.html 1 Quote
Frank Elder Posted July 24, 2017 Report Posted July 24, 2017 Here is a 12V tag for the voltage regulator. Quote
thebeebe5 Posted July 24, 2017 Author Report Posted July 24, 2017 I like all your posts @Frank Elder, but i can only like 10 posts daily. Thanks for the information!! 1 Quote
Frank Elder Posted July 24, 2017 Report Posted July 24, 2017 Thats ok.....I'm just in it for the glory....lol. 2 Quote
thebeebe5 Posted July 29, 2017 Author Report Posted July 29, 2017 Distributor all done. Turned out well. And had a little fun with the boss on his birthday... Waiting for him to notice I flowed my head this am... Quote
thebeebe5 Posted July 30, 2017 Author Report Posted July 30, 2017 (edited) Saturday's progress: Spent most of the day cleaning parts. The parts washer ran from 8am to noon washing all the grimy, nasty engine parts and cleaning transmission up internals. All the trans parts got a final cleaning in SafeTClean parts washer by hand. Lots of other parts got bead blasted and a few got painted like the crank pulley. Edited July 30, 2017 by thebeebe5 Quote
thebeebe5 Posted July 30, 2017 Author Report Posted July 30, 2017 (edited) By the end of the day I was beat, but still needed to torque the main caps and rods and give 'em a check. Mains are out of spec with each being 0.0005"-0.001" under spec. Each tapered towards the tighter end at the back of the cap with the exception of the rear cap wich ran 0.001" under spec front to back. BUT, rotate the bore gauge 30-40° and it is evident that the caps need attention. The hole on the rear cap went up to spec about 30° one way, but droped to two mil under spec when rotated the other way. Also, cap numer 2 can literally be rotated in its register, so it will never repeatably torque to the same spot. I'll ask Pat (the machinist) to tighten up the loose one (ones, I think #1 is too lose as well) and grind the caps to bring that main bore to spec front to back. Rods also need attention. Torqued a couple of caps and checked them on the Sunnen honing machine and both were well out of spec with variances in the big ends roundness up to 1.5 mil. Figured as much. Resizing is pretty routine, but when all these bearing bores are attended to I'll have a real nice foundation for this motor. Also, took apart this synchro that came in a second transmission I purchased from a superb forum member. It looks like new. At least, way better than the one in my original trans. Think it's a replacement because the gears in that second trans were far more worn than mine. It had been disassembled at some point in the past as evidenced by the scribe mark on one face no longer matching up between the inner and outer portions. I'll clean it up thoroughly and reassemble prior to installing in my trans. Edited August 1, 2017 by thebeebe5 3 Quote
thebeebe5 Posted August 4, 2017 Author Report Posted August 4, 2017 ARP rod bolts are in. Time to resize some rods... 1 Quote
thebeebe5 Posted August 13, 2017 Author Report Posted August 13, 2017 (edited) Transmission progress yesterday. Almost all back together. At least far enough to bag it and put it on the shelf.... Waiting on a backordered gasket kit and rear seal and it'll be ready. Ended up taking the best parts of the two transmissions I had and doing the assembly. About 1/2 through and my buddy needed to use the lathe which was right behind me. I came back to metal shards all over the place and had to re-clean and start over. Oh well... it was the only empty bench space in the entire shop, and I did make progress. Should get mains honed on the block this week. Water pump rebuild is done. It got bored for a sealed bearing rather than the old bushing, and a new impeller fitted on a new shaft. Not cheap, but not a Chinese re-pop either. Still has the grease fitting in place although I'll no longer need to use it. Clutch is rebuilt for less than I could have ordered and shipped a rebuild. Shop thinks it's the original clutch too... And I keep forgetting to pick up the flywheel and take it with me at the end of the day.... It needs surfaced and a ring gear. I'll have to collect that tomorrow. Edited August 13, 2017 by thebeebe5 2 Quote
medium_jon Posted August 14, 2017 Report Posted August 14, 2017 @thebeebe5, that photo with all the transmission parts frightens me. My nightmare would be being presented with that table and being told that I couldn't leave until it is all back together and working. Ha 1 Quote
thebeebe5 Posted August 16, 2017 Author Report Posted August 16, 2017 Water pump looks pretty good and spins easily. That bearing in place of the original bushing should be a nice friction reducer... And Pat was setting up the block for a main line-hone. Should get done early tomorrow morning. Things are coming along... 1 Quote
Frank Elder Posted August 16, 2017 Report Posted August 16, 2017 (edited) You work in this shop so I'm sure you've seen a lot of machining.......has anyone taken the pump body after it is apart and done a port and polish like on a combustion chamber? Deburred, smoothed out for a better flow...that with your bearing mod would really improve the flow, or at least in my mind. And before one of you guys pipes up with thats not needed.....thats not the issue at hand. Thank you. Edited August 16, 2017 by Frank Elder 1 Quote
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