55 Fargo Posted May 1, 2017 Report Posted May 1, 2017 10 minutes ago, Kool48 said: Well just now that you brought this up. I happened to ask a coworker to bring his into work so I could use his. Mine and his are exactly the same guages. But I noticed mine the needle is way below the zero mark. His is real close. So I bet mine was lying to me , probably by a good 4 or 4 inches of vacuum. Can't wait to get home this evening and usr his to see what it says. I also got my spare carb today. So if needed I'll rebuild it. But I'll buy a known good quality rebuild kit. Not the cheap I bought off of eBay. I'll post pics later if what I'm talking about. My phone makes pics to large to load here. Sounds like a plan, depending on your areas elevation, anything over 16 will be fine, 17 18 is tickety boo.... Quote
Kool48 Posted May 1, 2017 Author Report Posted May 1, 2017 2 hours ago, 55 Fargo Spitfire said: Sounds like a plan, depending on your areas elevation, anything over 16 will be fine, 17 18 is tickety boo.... Central Illinois USA lol Quote
55 Fargo Posted May 1, 2017 Report Posted May 1, 2017 (edited) 15 minutes ago, Kool48 said: Central Illinois USA lol I am northwest of you Edited May 1, 2017 by 55 Fargo Spitfire 1 Quote
Kool48 Posted May 2, 2017 Author Report Posted May 2, 2017 Well the my vacuum gauge was off. I'll try to post pics. Mine will be to the left. Along with a couple shots of the difference between the 2 while checking vacuum. I simply over looked it. But I did manage to repair mine now . The timing is ok and I can pretty much put it where ever I want now. The vacuum I got up to 17 inches at idle and the timing around 6 degrees BTDC . I took out for test drive. , it doesn't surge no more it's running like it has a miss . You can tell it wants to run strong but there's a popping like a miss in it. I regapped the plugs to .030. No change. I played with timing a bit during the test run. No difference no matter what as far as the missing or lack of ? I know the carb isn't plugged. I know my timing can be adjusted to be right. Now I'm leaning towards fuel supply. It does seem to be running lean. Quote
Kool48 Posted May 2, 2017 Author Report Posted May 2, 2017 (edited) Timing set to highest vacuum in these pics , as well as carb adjusted The white paint mark is TDC Edited May 2, 2017 by Kool48 Wrong pic Quote
Kool48 Posted May 2, 2017 Author Report Posted May 2, 2017 2 minutes ago, Niel Hoback said: Check your plugs and wires . Gonna double check them tomorrow. But at idle, it sounds good and responds great. Just under load does it act up. But I'll go back a double check wires tomorrow evening. Quote
Kool48 Posted May 2, 2017 Author Report Posted May 2, 2017 4 hours ago, Niel Hoback said: Wide gap will miss under load. .030 right now. Misses just pulling out of drive and taking off. Like valves popping. But never did that before all this work. So I have something off somewhere. Quote
Don Coatney Posted May 2, 2017 Report Posted May 2, 2017 Chuck your plug wires in the dark with the engine running using a spray bottle of water to dampen all the wires and the distributor cap. If you see sparks replace the wires. 1 Quote
1952B3b23 Posted May 2, 2017 Report Posted May 2, 2017 I just replaced the plug wires on my '53 flathead and i used Taylor Street Thunder 8mm set from Summit racing (P/N: 50047). I'm happy with the quality and how they look, maybe those are an option for you as well. Do you think that miss under load could be caused by the fuel that you are using? I've heard that this ethanol blended fuel can cause some wacky stuff with our old engines. Ethanol free gas is hard to find around me and quite expensive. So i've actually switched to running the "Plus" grade of ethanol blended fuel that they sell at the pumps. I believe that the octane rating is 87, instead of the 83 i use to put it. I think this actually had a positive effect on my cars performance. It could all just be cause I've installed the dual carbs and dual exhaust, but i dont know it sure feels like its helped. I'm just throwing out ideas maybe something will spark an "ahhh-haaa" moment for you. Good luck. -Chris Quote
Kool48 Posted May 2, 2017 Author Report Posted May 2, 2017 23 minutes ago, 1952B3b23 said: I just replaced the plug wires on my '53 flathead and i used Taylor Street Thunder 8mm set from Summit racing (P/N: 50047). I'm happy with the quality and how they look, maybe those are an option for you as well. Do you think that miss under load could be caused by the fuel that you are using? I've heard that this ethanol blended fuel can cause some wacky stuff with our old engines. Ethanol free gas is hard to find around me and quite expensive. So i've actually switched to running the "Plus" grade of ethanol blended fuel that they sell at the pumps. I believe that the octane rating is 87, instead of the 83 i use to put it. I think this actually had a positive effect on my cars performance. It could all just be cause I've installed the dual carbs and dual exhaust, but i dont know it sure feels like its helped. I'm just throwing out ideas maybe something will spark an "ahhh-haaa" moment for you. Good luck. -Chris Thanks Chris. I don't think the fuel type is my issue as this issue wasn't an issue prior to all the changes lately. I think I'm getting very close. It's gotta be something simple. After work thisevening I'm gonna check out my wires. Quote
Kool48 Posted May 3, 2017 Author Report Posted May 3, 2017 15 hours ago, Don Coatney said: Chuck your plug wires in the dark with the engine running using a spray bottle of water to dampen all the wires and the distributor cap. If you see sparks replace the wires. Don , I came home tonight and within 5 mins found that #3 plug wire had a issue. Just doing a visual I was pulling each wire and checking them. Well the end that goes into the cap , the wire didn't have the metal terminal on it. It must have gotten broke off during all this madness and I didn't catch it. So now I'm searching for new cap and wires. Called local parts stores , well you know how that goes. Question,. What years cap , rotor , wires will work on my 1948 218. I'm wanting to get theses ordered ASAP but don't wanna order the wrong parts. Thanks. Quote
greg g Posted May 3, 2017 Report Posted May 3, 2017 Order by the distributor number on the plate on the side of the dist. I have run a set of universal 6 cylinder wire set from tractor supply. 8 years, no complaints. They are non resistor so they might cause a problem if you have/ use a radio. Quote
Kool48 Posted May 3, 2017 Author Report Posted May 3, 2017 35 minutes ago, greg g said: Order by the distributor number on the plate on the side of the dist. I have run a set of universal 6 cylinder wire set from tractor supply. 8 years, no complaints. They are non resistor so they might cause a problem if you have/ use a radio. Which ones. I can't find anything . Would it be the AL-130 ? Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted May 3, 2017 Report Posted May 3, 2017 The distributor number is IAP4103A-1 1 Quote
greg g Posted May 3, 2017 Report Posted May 3, 2017 That's the number thanks Jerry. If the parts guy doesn't recognize that number you got the wrong guy or wrong store. There are several styles of distributor assigned for work in 23.5 inch blocks. They are all interchangeable as an assembly, but parts do not interchange among them. Chief among the differences are they height of the dist body and relatedly the depth of the cap. There are also differences in how the electrical terminal is handled,whether the notch for the terminal in the cap is squared or rounded. Even where the points and condenser are located differs among the types used. Rotor height is different depending on body and cap demensions. So that number defines the replaceable parts it needs. Quote
Dartgame Posted May 3, 2017 Report Posted May 3, 2017 I made my own, bought a universal 6 cylinder set that has straight spark plug boots. You cut to length and attach the distributor brass connectors. Best done using a mandrill (for lack of better term) intended for mashing the ends of these things. Or you can take the plug wire into your local parts store and they can match one up to the length and sell it to you. Most parts stores have singles like that. Quote
Kool48 Posted May 3, 2017 Author Report Posted May 3, 2017 1 hour ago, Dartgame said: I made my own, bought a universal 6 cylinder set that has straight spark plug boots. You cut to length and attach the distributor brass connectors. Best done using a mandrill (for lack of better term) intended for mashing the ends of these things. Or you can take the plug wire into your local parts store and they can match one up to the length and sell it to you. Most parts stores have singles like that. No. I've got the mandrel from another set of wires i made for my 31. So yes I'm gonna buy universal fit wires and make my own up. Got me a cap , should be here tomorrow. Got one with the brass inserts . Hopefully that gets me going again. Seem as if I'm chasing my tail lol 1 Quote
Kool48 Posted May 6, 2017 Author Report Posted May 6, 2017 Well here's the latest as of tonight. Got my new distributor cap on. Checked everything again. I'm gonna keep this short. I pulled and checked eacn wire with my Fluke for resistance all good. Pulled all plugs checked for resistance and shorts. All good. Ran engine here in drive. Still have the pop sound from either 1,2,or 3. I say that because I have headers and the sound is Only on passenger side exhaust. So. I started pulling wires off spark plugs while engine running. #1 cylinder is my problem. You really don't hear a difference in the engine when it's off. And yes I pulled plug and checked for spark with engine running. And there is plenty of spark. Engine doesn't smoke. I'm leaning towards the intake valve not putting fuel in #1 cylinder. I have a thermal temp gun. I put the red light right at top near flange of each exhaust tube. Only # 1 is low. I mean like 200 degrees difference from the other 5. It's either bad luck on me or I'm completely lost here. Car ran excellent before. Now just all of a,sudden this. Any suggestions. I am going to do another compression test tomorrow. But I'm betting on #1 intake valve? Engine sounds good wants to pull good. But has that miss. And I believe it's #1 intake. ? Quote
55 Fargo Posted May 6, 2017 Report Posted May 6, 2017 2 hours ago, Kool48 said: Well here's the latest as of tonight. Got my new distributor cap on. Checked everything again. I'm gonna keep this short. I pulled and checked eacn wire with my Fluke for resistance all good. Pulled all plugs checked for resistance and shorts. All good. Ran engine here in drive. Still have the pop sound from either 1,2,or 3. I say that because I have headers and the sound is Only on passenger side exhaust. So. I started pulling wires off spark plugs while engine running. #1 cylinder is my problem. You really don't hear a difference in the engine when it's off. And yes I pulled plug and checked for spark with engine running. And there is plenty of spark. Engine doesn't smoke. I'm leaning towards the intake valve not putting fuel in #1 cylinder. I have a thermal temp gun. I put the red light right at top near flange of each exhaust tube. Only # 1 is low. I mean like 200 degrees difference from the other 5. It's either bad luck on me or I'm completely lost here. Car ran excellent before. Now just all of a,sudden this. Any suggestions. I am going to do another compression test tomorrow. But I'm betting on #1 intake valve? Engine sounds good wants to pull good. But has that miss. And I believe it's #1 intake. ? Stuck valve, and let's see what the compression test says. Maybe time for the seafoam or marvel mystery oil treatment. This might clear up too, after a good long drive..... 1 Quote
Kool48 Posted May 6, 2017 Author Report Posted May 6, 2017 (edited) 46 minutes ago, 55 Fargo Spitfire said: Stuck valve, and let's see what the compression test says. Maybe time for the seafoam or marvel mystery oil treatment. This might clear up too, after a good long drive..... I'll post tomorrow compression test. Engine warmed up carb opened. Never thought about the seafoam or mystery oil. That would be great if it freed up the valve. I'd be happy as hell lol. Never used either. How to go about using it ? Edited May 6, 2017 by Kool48 Quote
55 Fargo Posted May 6, 2017 Report Posted May 6, 2017 Pour either down the carb, with engine running and warm, engine must be revving to abut 2000 rpm, pour in can slowly, then shut down, start it after a couple of hours, a lot of smoke will ensue, and maybe loosen that valve. Do the compression test first and see where you are at. Hopefully you don't have a leaking head gasket at cyl 1... 1 Quote
Kool48 Posted May 6, 2017 Author Report Posted May 6, 2017 59 minutes ago, 55 Fargo Spitfire said: Pour either down the carb, with engine running and warm, engine must be revving to abut 2000 rpm, pour in can slowly, then shut down, start it after a couple of hours, a lot of smoke will ensue, and maybe loosen that valve. Do the compression test first and see where you are at. Hopefully you don't have a leaking head gasket at cyl 1... Will do. Quote
Don Coatney Posted May 6, 2017 Report Posted May 6, 2017 As you have dual exhaust have you done the dollar bill test? Quote
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