Tom Skinner Posted February 20, 2017 Report Posted February 20, 2017 Gents, I just removed the Cotter Pins on my Tie Rod ends, The Castle Nuts, turned them around and ran them up flush, and took a wooden mallet andtried beating them loose. No go. Any suggestions? A buddy has suggested a pickle fork. I guess they sell them at Advance Auto? Tom Quote
Chazz 47 Posted February 20, 2017 Report Posted February 20, 2017 I just removed mine this weekend. I used a tie rod separater or pickle fork. When I buried it all the way in I put the castle nut on upside down and ran it down flush and gave it a couple hits with a two pound hammer and they came apart. Quote
Tom Skinner Posted February 20, 2017 Author Report Posted February 20, 2017 Thanks Chazz, I guess a Wooden Mallet doesn't really get it. I'll pull out a 2lbs Hammer once I buy my pickle fork. Tom Quote
DCurrent Posted February 20, 2017 Report Posted February 20, 2017 You can sometimes rent one at autozone, car quest, for just a deposit. Quote
classiccarjack Posted February 20, 2017 Report Posted February 20, 2017 (edited) I use a little bit of heat, and a lead or brass hammer, tapped by a decent sized hammer. I rest the soft hammer on the tie rod end with the castle nut flipped upside down and flushed with the end of the stud. Then I strike the soft hammer with the hard hammer to prevent marring the ends. I usually use a typical reasonable sized ball peen hammer to begin with, and work my way up if needed. I have had great success in "NOT" destroying the tie rod ends this way..... Edited February 20, 2017 by classiccarjack Double sentence Quote
Branded Posted February 20, 2017 Report Posted February 20, 2017 (edited) With a good size hammer hit the boss of the steering arm where the tie rod stud passes the the arm. Usually a couple solid hits allows the tapper fit to pop loose. You want to get a good a solid hit to jar it loose, glancing blows won't do it. Edited February 20, 2017 by Branded 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 20, 2017 Report Posted February 20, 2017 (edited) borrow the tie rod remover tool that is a C press and remove without damage...there are different sizes and you can make an adapter if needed....I have adapted these to be used on some small English cars....no damage... Edited February 20, 2017 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 21, 2017 Report Posted February 21, 2017 Better be careful if buying the new tie rods sold by the typical on line vendor we see every where online..... and even the local parts store... This is a brand new never installed set of four tie rod ends that it seems are not made too well! Offshore trash can garbage The grease leaks beyond the swaged/sealed steel cover before pushing out around the ball and socket joint!!! Even the rubber boots that are new and have been so carefully kept away from bright light have severe cracking when flexed! Best bet ls for quality suspension parts probably now is NOS American made replacement parts ... MOOG was top quality but even MOOG now is global... try to figure out where their stuff is made 1 Quote
classiccarjack Posted February 21, 2017 Report Posted February 21, 2017 53 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said: Better be careful if buying the new tie rods sold by the typical on line vendor we see every where online..... and even the local parts store... This is a brand new never installed set of four tie rod ends that it seems are not made too well! Offshore trash can garbage The grease leaks beyond the swaged/sealed steel cover before pushing out around the ball and socket joint!!! Even the rubber boots that are new and have been so carefully kept away from bright light have severe cracking when flexed! Best bet ls for quality suspension parts probably now is NOS American made replacement parts ... MOOG was top quality but even MOOG now is global... try to figure out where their stuff is made How Awful! Modern American parts are going to pot. I switched from Moog to Raybestos. If NOS is available, I try to buy it. It's certainly not getting easier. 1 Quote
Tom Skinner Posted February 22, 2017 Author Report Posted February 22, 2017 Got em off. It took a Pickle Forking and I banged them right off with my Big Hammer. L.O.L. (Now don't think dirty) Anyways of course cleaning everything is the biggie now. I got new Tie Rods from Andy Bernbaums (Quality Tie Rods). I also stopped by a Front End Joint to ask the Mechanic what to tighten the Castle Nuts to. He said about 35 - 40LBS then back off enough to put the Cotter Pin in. I also ordered some Pitman Arm Bushings (4) mine look a little dicey. Of course I removed the famous Left Side Lower Engine Splash Shield to clean up to Paint. Thanks for all the great advice. I am a newbie to front ends. Tom Quote
Tom Skinner Posted February 22, 2017 Author Report Posted February 22, 2017 I got my Pickle Fork at Advance Auto for $9.67 Tax included. What a deal. Its a heavy metal Fork over a foot long. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 22, 2017 Report Posted February 22, 2017 Never back off a tightened tie rod castle nut to the previous slot.. tighten to the next one. 2 Quote
classiccarjack Posted February 22, 2017 Report Posted February 22, 2017 59 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said: Never back off a tightened tie rod castle nut to the previous slot.. tighten to the next one. Exactly, the taped wedge must be kept tight or the hole will get wallowed out. 1 Quote
Tom Skinner Posted February 23, 2017 Author Report Posted February 23, 2017 10-4 Tighten to pin goes in. Thanks! Tom Quote
50 coupe Posted February 24, 2017 Report Posted February 24, 2017 On 2/20/2017 at 10:33 PM, Dodgeb4ya said: Better be careful if buying the new tie rods sold by the typical on line vendor we see every where online..... and even the local parts store... This is a brand new never installed set of four tie rod ends that it seems are not made too well! Offshore trash can garbage The grease leaks beyond the swaged/sealed steel cover before pushing out around the ball and socket joint!!! Even the rubber boots that are new and have been so carefully kept away from bright light have severe cracking when flexed! Best bet ls for quality suspension parts probably now is NOS American made replacement parts ... MOOG was top quality but even MOOG now is global... try to figure out where their stuff is made DITTO THIS!! Don't over look what Dodgeb4ya states here. Repop critical fit parts like front suspension can leave you desperate and dollarless. Try to find the NOS stuff and it will be well worth the extra money!!!! Quote
Tom Skinner Posted February 25, 2017 Author Report Posted February 25, 2017 I installed the Tie Rods in with the Pitman Arm Bushings and got Goodyear to do an alignment this morning. Their Computer/system had the specs for a 1948 Windsor which is essentially the same as my 1948 Chrysler Royal. A very competent mechanic named Shane (about 40 years old) had it sorted out inside of 45 minutes. I let him use my manual anyhow and also my C-611 Camber wrench I had previously got on ebay. It rides real straight and smooth now. My old Tie Rods were all loose and gritty and beyond saving so when I got home from Goodyear I tossed them. Tie Rods @ $165, Pitman Bushings $32, alignment $89. Worth every penny. Of course I had my 8 hours labor in there cleaning and painting everything up as well. All's well that ends well. Thank you for all the great advice. Tom 1 Quote
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