Brake Adjustment Tool

[DrDoctor]

   Concerning brake shoe adjustment – can anyone tell me where one can obtain a tool like the red one shown here? I’ve not been able to track one down, and I think it’d greatly simplify the adjustment of the brake shoes

   Thx.

[DrDoctor]

  

   Concerning brake shoe adjustment – can anyone tell me where one can obtain a tool like the red one shown here? I’ve not been able to track one down, and I think it’d greatly simplify the adjustment of the brake shoes.

   Thx.

 

   Well, THAT didn’t work!!! I copied a photo in Word to the text, but the photo didn’t make the trip . . .  Remember, I mentioned that I’m electronically challenged. So, I’ll try another approach.

[rb1949]

You've got the photo. Next time you post, look toward the bottom where it says "Choose File", click it. Find the pix on your computer and click OK. It will be attached to the post.

[DrDoctor]

   Well, THAT didn’t work, either!!! I copied a photo of the particular tool in Word separately from the text, but the photo didn’t make that trip, either . . .  Remember, I mentioned that I’m electronically challenged. So, I’ll try another approach, again.

1946Plymouth-BrkAdjtTool.docx

[DrDoctor]

   I just did that, and while I was at it, I received a notice that someone (must've been you . . .) had responded to my inquiry. Anyway, I think that the photo "made the trip" as an attachment. See, I wasn't kidding when I said I was "electronically challenged". Anyway, Thx.

[DrDoctor]

rb1949,

   Hey, I do believe that that worked!!! I just tried it, and I got the photo I was tying to put in with my text. I guess there’s more than one way around this barn.

   Thx.

 

[rb1949]

but where is it? (you'll see the photo in the small box down there, before you hit submit)

 

[P15-D24]

You can't copy and paste directly into the thread. You need to create a file first. Export the image out of Word so you have an image file like a jpg. I selected your image in the Word doc, then did a right mouse click and selects "Save as picture..."

Then drag it on "Drag files here to attach..." and click on submit.

[Niel Hoback]

• Nice looking tool, but unless it's exactly the same diameter as your brake drum, or you have nos drums, you'll only get close to a good adjustment.
• You could probably make one from an old drum with the same results.

[desoto1939]

1 hour ago, Niel Hoback said:

• Nice looking tool, but unless it's exactly the same diameter as your brake drum, or you have nos drums, you'll only get close to a good adjustment.
• You could probably make one from an old drum with the same results.

As per already stated this is assuming and I must state again that you have a NOS non cut drum that is perfect then this would work. As soon as your drum has been cut then the above tool is not going to give you the perfect adjustment.  You either need the Ammco 1759 Brake gage or the Miller MT19 factory Brake tool to get the shoes to be in a perfect match and also have the two shoes arced to match the drum.  This is the perfect setup to having the best braking option for the Lockheed brakes.

I do have the Ammco Brake gage 1750. Also refer to the technical section and there are several pictures of the process of how the two brake gages are used.

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[Plymouthy Adams]

I have not seen a direct link to the tool listing any specification...it could well be cut at max diameter and you adjust the brakes basked on the cut of your drum form stock to undercut by using the correct feeler gauge thickness....the item of most concern to me would be if the tool has been machined on a lathe after welding to assure that the perimeter is true to the axle and in round....

[DrDoctor]

 

Plymouthy,

   Point well taken, and one that I’ve been wondering about, too. One would think that the welding of the three “legs” of this thing would warp the circle out of perfect concentricity with the drum and/or shoes. As for Ammco tool, I’ve got the article on who to make a “make-shift” one, but getting thecenter  portion to align on the front spindle looks to be problematic, and I haven’t even gotten to the point of figuring out the back end. I know of a guy around here who actually got rid of his 1950 Dodge station wagon because he couldn’t get the brakes to work properly, and I’m not keen on following in his footsteps. Ideas?????  Thx.

[DrDoctor]

   Again, I’m no computer expert (by any stretch . . .), but I just clicked on the 1946Plymouth-BrkAdjtTool.docx entry in my submission dated Sunday the 20^th of November, 2016, at 4:43pm, and it worked fine. Does this only work on my own machine, or can’t others do the same??? Thx.

[Don Coatney]

What I found was the correct tool is required but it is pricey and hard to find. Even with the tool replacement parts such as wheel cylinders and shoes can be pricey and hard to find good American made parts. Conversion to disc brakes is easy to do and parts are readily available at most any auto parts store. Suggest you explore the disc conversion options. 

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

if staying with stock brakes one will need to be able to properly adjust the brakes...the tool is the only means I know that will come close to adjusting for the larger contact patch and allowing for proper wear of the shoes during their lifetime...

IF and I do say IF originality is not a problem for you I highly suggest a modern gear, one that will have a better ratio to match the highways of today, brakes that are of the floating variety and self adjusting and allows you the ability to walk into any big box store and walk out with components to maintain your brakes AND a very big improvement over the emergency brakes by allowing you to move the e-brake off the tranny and to the rear drums for so much more clamping force for less effort.  But as the car is yours so is the call to improve....as for myself....a internal drum brake is much better than the outside band...

[DrDoctor]

Plymouthy,

   You’ve made a very cojent agrument for updated brakes. And, since I’ve rewired the car using a “contemporary” style fuse box, and blade-type fuses (altho’ I did stay with the 6v system, albeit it’s a negative ground one . . .), and I added turn signals (made from a late 60’s Dodge side-marker lites), strict originality isn’t an issue. I do want the car to look original, I guess “like a wolf in sheep’s clothing”, kind of thing. So, did you go with the disc brake conversion (I’ve been hearing some mixed comments about the Scarebird conversion), or do you have some other drum brake conversion secret that you’d like to divulge??? I’m all ears . . .  Thx.

[Plymouthy Adams]

I have never seen a need for disc brakes on the rear......nothing wrong with having them...it is just that I do not think they are a necessary upgrade....each person has to make that call for himself I will never fault a person going to rear disc ever......my conversions are a whole lot more unorthodox than the average person here will tackle.......and the last rear end upgrade has anti-locking 11 inch brakes...

[DrDoctor]

Plymouthy,

   By what you’ve said above, I’m assuming (and you know what THAT means . . .) you’re relacing the entire rear housing assembly. I’ve been toying with that, but then I’ve got to change/alter the drive shaft to accommodate newer style U-joints, and since I’ve built street rods/custom cars/chopper motorcycles, and such, it’s always” one change begets the next change, which begets the next one, and so on, and so on, and so on, ad infinitm/ad nauseum”. Well, you get the idea. I was hoping to avoid much of that cause/effect when I ventured into this ’46 Plymouth Special DeLuxe club coupe – my first restoration, and pretty much have, except the cause/effect cycle is much, much shorter with a restored antique, than with a street rod/custom car/chopper.

   Thx.

[desoto1939]

Doctor'sIN:  If you are having issues with getting the brake shoes aligned and adjusted I do have the Ammco 1750 Brake gage tool to adjust the brake shoes/  Contact me me concerning the tool if you need to use it.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com