jcmiller Posted November 14, 2016 Report Posted November 14, 2016 What do you think of white gas (Coleman type fuel) as a grease and wax remover for paint prep? I sanded out some rust spots on the floor, then treated with phosphoric acid. Now there are painted areas with treated sections mixed in. I was thinking about wiping the area down with white gas before painting. I have some lacquer thinner too, but it sounds like that can leave a residue. Also have acetone and have used it before, but I think that might damage the existing paint. I know there are special "grease and wax" removers, but I don't want to go buy more chemicals unless I have to. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 15, 2016 Report Posted November 15, 2016 residue even from that.....the very stuff sold by many folks as the final wipe prior to paint is Naptha...basically good ole lighter fluid so to speak....less some aromatics... Quote
jcmiller Posted November 15, 2016 Author Report Posted November 15, 2016 Do you mean that you don't recommend it because it also leaves a residue? Quote
Don Coatney Posted November 15, 2016 Report Posted November 15, 2016 27 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said: residue even from that.....the very stuff sold by many folks as the final wipe prior to paint is Naptha...basically good ole lighter fluid so to speak....less some aromatics... Naphtha sounds like you are lisping.... Quote
Los_Control Posted November 15, 2016 Report Posted November 15, 2016 years ago I use to retread truck tires, we used lots of glues and solvents. Naturally we would always order the correct solvent through our suppliers. We were told, if we wiped a solvent on a mirror and let it dry, you would see if it left behind a residue, and if you could use it for retreading. For obvious reasons, it was critical to not have contamination left behind. Seems like a simple test you could try and see for yourself what would be left behind after it dried. 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 15, 2016 Report Posted November 15, 2016 (edited) the only solvent I am aware of for zero residue for the most part is hospital grade acetone..for the most part means how you use it, when cleaning you must be wet and start in the center and continue your wipe to the very edge in a circular motion in order to remove the very residue you are tying to remove from the surface, you stop and the residue will be left when the solvent evaps...it is the only solvent suitable for cleaning optical lenses prior to adhesively joining them together.... Edited November 15, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
jcmiller Posted November 15, 2016 Author Report Posted November 15, 2016 I went with the white gas. 1 Quote
Ulu Posted November 16, 2016 Report Posted November 16, 2016 OK, I DO NOT recommend this procedure, but gasoline is the world's cheapest paint thinner. I knew a guy who sprayed many cars using gasoline & evidently it worked. Of course gas was 26 cents a gallon back then, and there was no EPA; but of course the explosion hazard is high and the vapors will choke you. "White" gas was made as a cooking gas and it has no lead, but it does have stuff in it (as does auto gas,) to help prevent rust in the tank. I believe that's what leaves the real residue. Quote
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