Differential disassembly

[jpartington]

I have a 52 b3d, and I would like to replace bearings in the differential. I have never taken a differential apart before. I guess I'm just wondering how complicated it is and steps I will have to do. I already have the carrier assembly out of the truck and sitting on the bench.

[PT81Jan]

Disassembling is not the difficult part - assembling needs some care, but if you consider the basics and have a bit patience, it is not impossible.

Maybe that helps:

-> https://www.ringpinion.com/TechnicalHelp/ContentFrame.aspx?FilePath=~%2fContent%2fParts%2fRingAndPinions%2f%2fFour_Critical_Ring_and_Pinion_Settings.inc

 

Edited February 25, 2016 by PT81Jan

[Dozerman51]

Hello jpartington,

While the third member PT81Jan is showing in the picture above is similar to your third member the disassembly and reassembly is different. He is showing you a "Cage" type differential case, your B3D has a "Barrel" type differential case. In your search box type in "Pilothouse Knowledge". click on to the site and scroll down the topic's to the repair manual for Dodge trucks. They show you what you need to do to take the third member apart. You need to remove the Diff. case lock pin by driving it out through the case. You then can use a blunt drift or the better method of using the proper tool to unscrew the Diff. case cap after either submerging the case only in boiling water or the later method of heating the case only by playing a torch around the outside. Go to the above mentioned site and read about the operation before attempting to take the third member apart. What is your third member gear ratio? Good luck.

[jpartington]

Not positive on gear ratio. The main thing I need to accomplish with this diff is just to replace the pinion seal. So I guess new question. Can I replace the seal without removing the pinion?

[Dodgeb4ya]

Yes...You can remove the pinion yoke and then remove the pinion seal and replace it.

As long as the pinion shaft and yoke have no end or side play at all I would prick punch mark the end of the pinion, yoke and retaining nut so as to reassemble the parts exactly as they were.

Tighten the nut back to your prick mark and maybe just a 1/16" more. That's it.

 

A impact gun will easily remove the 1-/14" nut. Other wise you need to hold the yoke with some kind of holding jig if you don't have the proper tool to do so.

[jpartington]

What is the best way to remove the seal

[Dodgeb4ya]

I use special tools to do these jobs.

You probably don't have them so to remove the seal you have to carefully weaken the seal sides so it loses it's grip to the case. So by using a narrow chisel you cave the sides in with out damaging the case to deform the roundness of the seal. This will help it come out easier.

Also drilling some holes in the face of it to insert a strong screw so  as to be able to use side cutters sideways to help pry it outward.

This is the not so easy way to remove these seals.

Shown are the real deal tools to remove and install the seals. These tools are not available to the public DIY'er in general.

[48Dodger]

I swear I'm gonna make plaster casts of all your specialty tools and hang'em on the wall so I can say "see, that's what I'm suppose to be using"....lol

 

48D

Edited March 1, 2016 by 48dodger

[Dodgeb4ya]

Send me a 5 gallon pail of plaster Tim and I'll cast as many as I can.

There will be a small casting and shipping charge of course!

[jpartington]

I used a slide hammer with a hook end. It worked perfectly

Thanks for the responses.

[John-T-53]

There are a couple types of seals available for the pinion that I have experienced - leather or rubber (neoprene, or whatever type of polymer blend it is)....

 

Use the rubber. The leather will leak from the start. I had to replace mine three times before I found the rubber version!

 

You might even need to sleeve your pinion flange sealing surface if it is pitted or has a groove. SKF speedi-sleeve is the answer to that.

 

After all that nonsense, my spare tire and surrounding area had a 1/4" tick coat of gear oil "slurry" on them that had to be hosed off with mineral spirits.

[John-T-53]

I swear I'm gonna make plaster casts of all your specialty tools and hang'em on the wall so I can say "see, that's what I'm suppose to be using"....lol

 

48D

 

I would like to see a Miller Tool booth at an upcoming Tailgate BBQ complete with demonstration guy (w/ boom mic), tool sales, and training.

[59bisquik]

I used a 2 jaw puler with the jaws turned outwards to pull the seal. Worked great!

 

I would also agree that you should get the neoprene seal over the leather and check your pinion yoke for any damage and use a SKF sleeve if needed. I just went through this a couple of weeks ago...

[jmooner3]

Hey Guys, I pulled the drive shaft and yoke with the plan to fix the leaking pinion seal... As always I searched the forum for info, which usually answers the question. The yoke is pitted so it looks like I'm headed for a speedy sleeve.. but that might be on the back burner...

 

 I'm resurrecting this thread because  DodgeB4ya said -

You can remove the pinion yoke and then remove the pinion seal and replace it. As long as the pinion shaft and yoke have no end or side play at all

 

Once I pulled the yoke it's clear that the pinion shaft has some play both side to side and end play, is any play acceptable?.... I suspect that means a more involved piece of work than just swapping the seal. The shop manual's exploded diagram is helpful for me to have an idea of what parts play here, can I correct this from the shaft end or do I need to take apart the dif...could it be the front bearing or am I into a full dif rebuild?

 

I welcome advice on this one. Thanks in advance.

Jay

 

 

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

There will be  pinion shaft side play once you remove the pinion yoke.

The pinion yoke when tightened up will properly preload the two pinion shaft bearings and prevent any in/out or any side-play movement.

You did prick punch the end of the pinion shaft/ yoke and nut all in line did you not?

Put it all back together as it was from the factory.

Edited January 8, 2018 by Dodgeb4ya

[jmooner3]

Hey DodgeB4ya - thanks for the quick response!

I'm looking at the diagram - Makes sense and great news.

 

I bought the leather seal but it seems from other's opinions I should get the rubber one instead. Does DCM have the speedy sleeves too, is anyone aware of other sources of neoprene seals to consider?

 

Jay

[Dodgeb4ya]

I'd use the modern rubber seal. Someone here will know the speedi- sleeve #....same for the current seal#..

I don't off hand.

[jmooner3]

Note the part numbers on the boxes for the seal and sleeve.  These were very inexpensive - like $30 all together. and simple to install.  Can't say if its a long term fix but for the moment - it's a far cry better than the leaker I had! My garage floor is thanking me.  thought some of you half ton folks might appropriate an alternative neoprene double lip seal over the leather one.