Fuel pump replacement

[minicooper]

Howdy friends,

 

I ordered a new fuel pump for my 1952 B3C, 218 flat head. The pump i received visually matches the Dodge parts catalogue for the 218 flat head that's in the truck, but it doesn't look anything like what I pulled. The old pump looks like it came out of a Dodge or Plymouth car (Roberts shows one that looks like the one I pulled and it's listed for cars). The new pump has the same mount pattern but the bowl on the old pump is inline with the pump and the rocker arm is inverted. 

 

I checked my block serial number and it looks correct for a 1952 B3 engine (T306*II0686*).

 

I've posted a photo of the two side by side (the pump at left is the one I pulled), I want to be sure that the new pump will work without ruining something, but I'm also thinking about just ordering the other one from Roberts.

 

If anyone could share any info they have, it would be much appreciated,

Roland

 

 

[Merle Coggins]

The one on the right is like what I have in my truck. It should work fine. I do highly recommend that you use a center punch and stake the pivot pin in place before installing it. These new pumps have a tendency to have their pins come out, which causes the pump to stop pumping. This will usually happen at the most inconvenient time.

Merle

[minicooper]

Thank you! I'll I'll follow your advice about the pivot pin. Ive read some posts where it's difficult to install these, is there anything I should be on the lookout for when I install it? When I pulled the existing pump, it came right out with no resistance.

 

Thanks again,

Roland

[bach4660]

The one on the right is like what I have in my truck. It should work fine. I do highly recommend that you use a center punch and stake the pivot pin in place before installing it. These new pumps have a tendency to have their pins come out, which causes the pump to stop pumping. This will usually happen at the most inconvenient time.

Merle

I found the new pump lever didn't make contact, so I pulled the pivot pin and swapped the old lever with the new. Basically I blended the two together. BUT I did have the pin come out as Merle cautions, so no matter which way it works make sure it is staked.

[Ron Day]

I would like to know the fuel pump psi requirements for 230 cu in flathead from the 50's.  I have a 49 b1b with 230cu in motor from 59 plymouth something.   I have had a great deal of trouble with fuel pump issues through the last 20 or so yrs with this vehicle.

[greg g]

I believe 3.5 to 5 .5 psi is in the ball park.  There is a test for volume also.  Remove the line from the float bowl, direct the stream into a container, a 20 ounce plastic beverage bottle will work.  With the coil wire pulled from the dist, have an assistant turn the engine over with the starter.  Count the pump pulses while gas goes into the container.  12 to 15 pulses should yield 6 to 8 ounces in the bottle. Any less indicates a blockage from the tank to the pump.  The flex hose between the frame cross member and the pump can be the culprit as it may look fine but may be collapsing under suction and pinching off flow.

If after testing the car won't start, reattach the coil wire in the distributer....

Edited August 11, 2017 by greg g

[John-T-53]

After pivot pin failure, the second time around I staked it, and it still walked out on its own.

So, made a new pin with a clip.

 

Edited August 11, 2017 by John-T-53