Still running hot, frustrated and need ideas

[White Spyder]

I still have not resolved this issue.  I am waiting on a bolt for the ctank pully so I can get cylender #3 to TDC so I can do a leak down test.  I have also been doing some reading and found that the Reat riser is another possible sorce of the problem.  Here is what mine looks like cold:

 

 

I think this is closed and what I read said that if it stayed open it could cause overheating,  Am I correct on both ?

[Desotodav]

Looks like your stop has come loose.

Did you check out the 'resources..tech..heat riser' section at the top-center of the forum page?... there's some really good information there on the heat riser.

[Tom Skinner]

Whie Spyder,

Fix the Heat Riser problem and you should be good to go.

Another thing taking out the radiator and washing it out upside down will probably yield a cup full of gunk also.

I'll bet you have then found your problem.

Good Luck!

Tom

[White Spyder]

Looks like your stop has come loose.

Did you check out the 'resources..tech..heat riser' section at the top-center of the forum page?... there's some really good information there on the heat riser.

That is where I read on about the possibility of it being the issue.

Whie Spyder,

Fix the Heat Riser problem and you should be good to go.

Another thing taking out the radiator and washing it out upside down will probably yield a cup full of gunk also.

I'll bet you have then found your problem.

Good Luck!

Tom

Tom,

Yep I will fix it, just meet to know where the stop goes. The photos in the tech section do not show a good view of the stop. I have sprayed it with carb cleaner and liquid wrench as well. The radiator is a new 2 row aluminum.

Edited November 15, 2015 by White Spyder

[P15-D24]

Did you ever try going back to the stock 160 stat? 

[mopar_earl]

Did you ever try going back to the stock 160 stat?

That's not a real fix. Car should run fine on a 180.

Earl

[Tom Skinner]

[Tom Skinner]

The Stop is only between the Weight Block and Post.

Remove it if necessary to figure it out.

Your spring is only wound around 3/4 of a turn any more than that it will not work

Edited November 15, 2015 by Tom Skinner

[Tom Skinner]

Edited November 15, 2015 by Tom Skinner

[Tom Skinner]

Imperial Website, Year 1948, Service Manuals, Engne Efficiency, Page 16

[White Spyder]

OK I have read the tech article a couple of times. From what I understand when the weight is in the 3 o'clock position exhaust gases are flowing straight out and not being diverted into the intake. If that is correct and mine is staying at the 3 o'clock position, then this should NOT cause the overheating issue I am experiencing. Please correct me if I am wrong.

I am repairing the spring anyway becuase I want it right.

[desoto1939]

so the real reason for the heat riser was to help the drivers that lived in cold climate areas. In the winter and cold months the base of the carb where is bolts to the intake would ice up and thenthe cars would stall and cut out when stoping for a light. So they created the heat risor to warm up the base of the carb.  Since we have downdraft carb the gas air mixture made a vapor and then this would freze because of the coldness at the base.

 

So the heat risor flap  would be straight up to divert heat to the base of the carb. then as the engine got warmer then the spring would relax and the flap would go back to a horizontal and leftthe heat go out the exhust section into the tailpipe..

 

So here isa test wire the HR so it is closed then see if you get the over heating and try it with it open and see what happens.  The guys in the southwest, and floida have no need for the heat riser and also in southern California only the upper states that have a real winter climate.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[dale]

I had a cracked head on an Olds v-8 once and the motor was ok at slow speeds but overheated right away at hiway speeds.  There was nothing to indicate it was cracked at all.  No loss of anti-freeze, no decirnable air bubbles,  nothing.  Finally pulled the motor down to find out it was cracked.

[White Spyder]

Here is the latest. Took the car to a friend who is a mechanic from years gone by. We checked the timing, advance, vacuum, and took multiple temp readings with a infer red thermometer all over the engine bay. All good. His thought, "gauge is getting old. Make sure it has coolant in it and drive and enjoy the car. "

I am going to take his advice. However my anal self will be putting in an alternative temp gauge under the dash just to be sure