engine problem at high speed

[55 Fargo]

I don't have one, but I will get one. as for now I will make small adjustments and see if I can dial in the timing.

Even if you go to  Wal Mart or get a cheapie from Harbor Freight, it will show you where your at....

 

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=vacuum+tester

Edited October 22, 2015 by Fargos-Go-Far

[finmad]

Even if you go to  Wal Mart or get a cheapie from Harbor Freight, it will show you where your at....

 

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=vacuum+tester

do I read the vacuum from the same port the advance goes to on the carb?

[55 Fargo]

do I read the vacuum from the same port the advance goes to on the carb?

Take it from the manifold vacuum to your vacuum wipers, just hook up there, and read at idle, engine warmed up. Look for reading of 16-21 inches of mercury, depending on your altitude, but if near sea level should read in the higher ranges, which would indicate a healthy engine, if you get readings, other than nice stable at idle 16-20, report your finding for a diagnosis...........

[finmad]

Take it from the manifold vacuum to your vacuum wipers, just hook up there, and read at idle, engine warmed up. Look for reading of 16-21 inches of mercury, depending on your altitude, but if near sea level should read in the higher ranges, which would indicate a healthy engine, if you get readings, other than nice stable at idle 16-20, report your finding for a diagnosis...........

Will do Dr. Fargo... Thanks again for the help.

[55 Fargo]

Okay Kool

[finmad]

Take it from the manifold vacuum to your vacuum wipers, just hook up there, and read at idle, engine warmed up. Look for reading of 16-21 inches of mercury, depending on your altitude, but if near sea level should read in the higher ranges, which would indicate a healthy engine, if you get readings, other than nice stable at idle 16-20, report your finding for a diagnosis...........

my truck is converted to electric wipers. can you describe where the port is in the manifold?

[Jeff Balazs]

There should be a fitting right on top of the intake manifold. Might have a plug in it now. You can get a fitting at the hardware store.

I have a vacuum gauge hooked up full time so I always know the status of things.

 

Jeff

[finmad]

got it, right behind the linkage. thanks

[Jeff Balazs]

Finmad (Fisherman?) That vacuum gauge will tell more about the condition of your engine and state of tune than any other device you are likely to own.

For me it is a must have.

 

Jeff.

[finmad]

I pulled out my Brake fluid pump and it doubles as a vacuum gauge with good instructions on what means what. I am excited to use it, once it stops raining.

[finmad]

Got the gauge on and it is reading 18-20 but bouncing quickly between the two. My book says that it means sticky valves. Here is a video, let me know what you think.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYCjhAYU2sw

[Don Coatney]

May be a gauge issue. Some gauges have a damper to minimize the needle jumping. I once connected a gauge belonging to another forum member to my engine and the needle bounced all over the place. I then connected my gauge and the reading was steady.

 

[finmad]

I WILL buy a nice one. If it is a gauge issue and not a valve issue that is MUCH easier to fix $$$

[HanksB3B]

As I posted earlier, run it as you are, until you have your new vacuum advance diaphragm.

That pinging on high RPM/load, if you have or get a vacuum gauge, time your engine as I also posted, if not.

Turn your dizzy with adjuster bolt loosend, just slightly clockwise, this will retard the ignition, and may stop pinging, hard detonation spark knock is not a good thing.

When I say slightly, just slightly clockwise............good luck

 

Nice work work guys on helping Finmad out, but Fargo I always thought that turning the dizzy clockwise "advanced" rather than "retarded" the timing. I'm not saying I'm right I just want to know. Nice temporary fix on plugging the vaccuum port at the carb ! (everybody knows that...except for me)

 

Jeff that sounds like a good idea to have a vaccuum gauge as part of the running gear. Would you please post a picture. I guess having it on my truck all the time is better than leaving it in a closet and desperately looking for it.  

 

Thanks,

 

Hank 

Edited October 23, 2015 by HanksB3B

[55 Fargo]

Nice work work guys on helping Finmad out, but Fargo I always thought that turning the dizzy clockwise "advanced" rather than "retarded" the timing. I'm not saying I'm right I just want to know. Nice temporary fix on plugging the vaccuum port at the carb ! (everybody knows that...except for me)

 

Jeff that sounds like a good idea to have a vaccuum gauge as part of the running gear. Would you please post a picture. I guess having it on my truck all the time is better than leaving it in a closet and desperately looking for it.  

 

Thanks,

 

Hank 

Nope clockwise is retard, and counterclockwise will advance, have done so many times.

You really need to get out and play with your engine and see...........LOL

[Jeff Balazs]

Nice work work guys on helping Finmad out, but Fargo I always thought that turning the dizzy clockwise "advanced" rather than "retarded" the timing. I'm not saying I'm right I just want to know. Nice temporary fix on plugging the vaccuum port at the carb ! (everybody knows that...except for me)

 

Jeff that sounds like a good idea to have a vaccuum gauge as part of the running gear. Would you please post a picture. I guess having it on my truck all the time is better than leaving it in a closet and desperately looking for it.  

 

Thanks,

 

Hank 

Hank;

I bought a good oil filled one and have it mounted to the steering column just like you might mount a tach. I don't have any photos here on my shop computer. But it is very straight forward. The nice thing about having one hooked up like this.......you know right away if you have a problem. Sticky valves.....blown out vacuum advance .....bad rings...etc.....none of it can hide from a vacuum gauge.

Added a photo of my vacuum gauge.....

Edited October 24, 2015 by Jeff Balazs

[HanksB3B]

Nope clockwise is retard, and counterclockwise will advance, have done so many times.

You really need to get out and play with your engine and see...........LOL

 

I think I'll experiment on Rod's thuch it's running something aweful I hear..mine's running great right now but I want to do the advance till it pings and then back it off experience just to be roadworthy knowledgeable. Maybe I'll get my friend Clem to hang over the fender and tweak it while we're driving.

 

Thanks, Fargo

 

Hank 

[finmad]

Got my new rebuilt advance arrived this morning. can't wait to see how/if it helps.

Edited October 29, 2015 by finmad

[Don Coatney]

The pull arm looks different. Perhaps backwards. Hope it works.

[Plymouthy Adams]

good eye DC....not sure if this will rotate on the diaphragm or not..have not bothered to look at one close..

[Merle Coggins]

I just looked through some distributor pictures I had and that appears to be the correct orientation for the arm.

 

Where did you have it rebuilt? I may have one that needs that service as well.

[HanksB3B]

Guys,

 

Wondering if it's a Vacuum Control pandemic. My quirky running truck (not unlike Jeff's thinking "it's a carb issue")  Rod's truck started acting quirky as well. My thoughts are that at <67 years Pilothouse Vacuum Control Diaphrams have outlived their life expectancy. Like Merle, I'm on the quest this morning to find an outfit capable of rebuilding these units. If there are any mechanical engineers in our group ? Let me throw this out there: What determines the thickness of the original  diaphram ? Is it vacuum pressure/thickness x area (or some formula like that)? . Also I'd want the diaphram to be urethane if that material is compatible with gasoline.

 

If you can blow through your vaccume control unit, It's shot,

 

Hank

 

 

Now for something different: Around sundown I pulled my truck under a tree at my local hardware store an admirerer asked "Is that a Kit? My thought..."Fiberglass*&%$#* ?"  " I know some some people that would kill if asked that question"? (well....maybe not...)

 

      

Edited October 29, 2015 by HanksB3B

[finmad]

The arm on the old one was attached to the perished diaphragm and it spun freely, the new one bolted up right. It is a transformed truck. No more power loss shifting into third at lower throttle, it pulls fine for 80+/- hp. I still have a vacuum leak, but I am confident now it is in the valves. I was told if I poor a little marvles down one cylinder and start it, then repeat, I should see which cylinder has the sticky valve with my vacuum gauge. they say it will slow or stop the fluttering for a bit, until the MMM wears off. Anyone try something like this? Any reason I should not try it? I don't know if a little MMM will damage a cylinder.

 

I bought the new one from Kanter with a $45 core charge credited back once you send them the core.

[Jeff Balazs]

Hank

 

 

Now for something different: Around sundown I pulled my truck under a tree at my local hardware store an admirerer asked "Is that a Kit? My thought..."Fiberglass*&%$#* ?"  " I know some some people that would kill if asked that question"? (well....maybe not...)

 

      

This is one of the reasons I left plenty of scars and dimples in mine when it got painted. When they are too straight and perfect after all these years it just doesn't look natural to me. Kinda like it has had the botox and augmentation surgery some old gals opt for. I think it is OK to look your age. No one is ever fooled by too good to be true......

 

Jeff

[Plymouthy Adams]

I agree...while I like a bit of powder on a solid base....I also belief they need to look their age..(why I buy the older car style) but I in no way believe they have to act their age....