janan5243 Posted October 16, 2015 Author Report Posted October 16, 2015 Just got off phone with Antique Auto Battery. If the 6V side has a constant, heavy load ( driving with headlights on a lot ), Their battery will also become unbalanced in charge. Their words. Will have to charge 6V side with charger occasionally to keep it up. So I guess the answer for dual voltage setups use 2 charging circuits or use 1 circuit & charge other when needed with charger. I guess if you could balance circuit out, you could get by with using a 12V alternator, especially if you don't do a lot of night driving. That 12/6/ battery is around $275. + shipping but it is a dry cell. Quote
mopar_earl Posted October 16, 2015 Report Posted October 16, 2015 I figured that would happen as it's the same set up as I want to run but in one battery case. So no matter what we do it will be unbalanced unless we run two alternators. Earl Quote
janan5243 Posted October 16, 2015 Author Report Posted October 16, 2015 yep, we need to use 2 alternators. I spoke to my alternator shop about where the other side of the ammeter would go if I just used a 12V alternator & hoped for the best. It originally went back to the generator, thru the regulator. It would have to go the alternator to function properly. I guess I could put in a voltmeter but I would still have the battery imbalance situation so I'm going to start fabricating a bracket for the 2nd alternator. I planned to drive it off 1st alternator which is why I had a double pulley put on. That allowed me to mount alternator to original bracket using a threaded rod for bottom mount. Had to change belt tension arm. alternator lined up perfectly but I may have to get a little shorter belt. 1 Quote
mopar_earl Posted October 16, 2015 Report Posted October 16, 2015 That's cool the 12/6 battery is a dry cell. For now I will keep it stock and put on a 6v pos grnd alternator. Until I start getting more 12v items I will just use one or two 6 to 12 convertors for cell phones and GPS. Eventually I want to put ac and an electric cooling fan on it. Earl Quote
janan5243 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Report Posted October 19, 2015 The alternator is installed & working. A 6V negative grd. Now the solenoid has failed. When I attempted to start car last week, solenoid would not work on 6V. Using a jumper wire from the 12V supply, it works. ????????????? I put a starter button in connected to 12V & start post originally supplied with 6V from switch. Doesn't work. Use a jumper wire directly from 12V battery, works. I find it hard to believe that there is a voltage drop large enough in 3 foot of wire to keep the solenoid winding from doing its job. I guess the starter will come out next. The 50 & 51 Desoto starter has a different solenoid, looks like a GM solenoid. I'm going to try & find one to install. Any one that has any advice please post it. Quote
Don Coatney Posted October 19, 2015 Report Posted October 19, 2015 Are you sure your solenoid is rated at 6 volts? Have you used a meter to verify voltage being supplied with your new button? Quote
janan5243 Posted October 19, 2015 Author Report Posted October 19, 2015 My solenoid is original one. Worked fine until I changed to alternator. Have checked batteries with voltmeter. 1st 6V = 6.4V, both in series + 12.8V. I've checked continuity for solenoid ground from grd connection to grd connection at battery, it's all good. But I saw a post by Donald Smith, I think, where he had a loose grd connection & it gave him starter problems. I tested the voltage from grd to the new wire going to solenoid, battery is 12.8V, circuit showed 15.4V. ?????????? When I test the original 6V solenoid wire with key turned to start, I get 6.4V. I know it's a wiring problem but where eludes me. If I use a short jumper from battery 12V to solenoid, it works. Quote
deathbound Posted October 20, 2015 Report Posted October 20, 2015 The alternator is installed & working. A 6V negative grd. Now the solenoid has failed. When I attempted to start car last week, solenoid would not work on 6V. Using a jumper wire from the 12V supply, it works. ????????????? I put a starter button in connected to 12V & start post originally supplied with 6V from switch. Doesn't work. Use a jumper wire directly from 12V battery, works. I find it hard to believe that there is a voltage drop large enough in 3 foot of wire to keep the solenoid winding from doing its job. I guess the starter will come out next. The 50 & 51 Desoto starter has a different solenoid, looks like a GM solenoid. I'm going to try & find one to install. Any one that has any advice please post it. Take 2 aspirin, convert to 12V and use 12V-6V reducers and be done. Or, just leave it 6V and be done. Quote
janan5243 Posted October 20, 2015 Author Report Posted October 20, 2015 (edited) Problem solved. New grd wire from block to solenoid. all works as it did before alternator swap. The puzzling part is that the solenoid originally was grounded to armature in generator. Wire went arm. post on regulator & to generator. Donald Smith explained that that was Chryslers fix to prevent engaging starter after engine was running. I put grd wire to same post & it was grounded thru regulator. I know now that it simply wasn't a good grd. I'm annoyed at myself because I wasted 2 days & several nights on it but according to multimeter, it should have worked. all is good again. Will work on second alternator when I put car up for winter. Thanks, everyone for help or advice Snow is the acronym for Sh*t no one wants. Edited October 20, 2015 by janan5243 1 Quote
DonaldSmith Posted October 20, 2015 Report Posted October 20, 2015 You wasted 2 days and three nights on this? That's par for the course. We don't do this stuff every day, so sometimes the learning process gets pretty steep. Speaking for the rest of the guys, we're happy for you. Glad to help. Quote
janan5243 Posted November 3, 2015 Author Report Posted November 3, 2015 car starting with 12V jumper but not with 12V starter button solved. It helps to have 12V connected to button. Was trying to change instrument panel light & wire started sparking under dash. Had two wires of same color under dash, one I had connected to 12V for button, other went to grd. Hooked up grd wire to hot side of button. Good mistake tho, it made me figure out what was wrong & correct it instead of Rube Golberging it. Lol Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted November 3, 2015 Report Posted November 3, 2015 Don C. suggested that you check the voltage at that button back on post #56 . Good thing that you didn't disconnect the battery as you should have when working under the dash or you wouldn't have found the problem . Sorry to sound so negative , I am glad that you found the answer . Quote
DonaldSmith Posted November 3, 2015 Report Posted November 3, 2015 Be positive in your outlook. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 3, 2015 Report Posted November 3, 2015 most folks are never happy with their current situation Quote
Niel Hoback Posted November 3, 2015 Report Posted November 3, 2015 Do you get a charge out of shocking people? 1 Quote
dale Posted November 3, 2015 Report Posted November 3, 2015 Replace the generator with a one wire altenator and forget you ever had an ammeter. Quote
janan5243 Posted November 4, 2015 Author Report Posted November 4, 2015 I did install a 1 wire alternator. My ammeter still works, just backwards, I'm the only driver so, no problem. If I ever figure out how get my dash loose, I'll swap the wires. Your right, I should disconnect battery but was only trying to find instrument panel bulb. As I said, crazy problem solved. Car is running great & it's probably my imagination but since I installed alternator, even cold, I don't have to touch gas pedal. we're having a great late Indian Summer here in Upstate NY but at first hint of S**t No One Wants will have made room in heated shop for car & will pursue some other mods I want to make this year. Didn't get many miles on her this year but definitely will next year Quote
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