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Posted

This topic has probably been done to death but i can't seem to find an answer in my searches.

i found the wheel bolt/stud conversion link for the pre 65 mopars. it breaks it all down for the rear axles. i guess the point is to be able to not have to use the special puller on the tapered axles. it gives you the part number for the replacement drum.

i get that. i have the tool and it's not exactly convenient but it works.

what i can't find here is the best way to do that to the FRONT wheels (without a disk brake conversion) so i can put on a set of cragar rims or supremes and use the lug nuts and washers that come with them.

is it the same process? but then what replacement drums would be used?

 

Posted

I used studs specifically made that thread into the hub in place of the lug bolts. They have a stop so they only go in so far. It takes an allen wrench to thread into the hub, use a little Loctite and you're good to go.

Posted

Before switching to disc brakes I used the screw in studs, got them from a speed shop. To keep the threads all the same I got 2 Right side drums and mounted them on  the left front and rear. That allowed me to use the same studs and lug nuts on  both sides. No more remembering right or left to loosen.  

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I used Wheel Vintique Chrome Smoothies on the Plymouth with the stock brake drums and wheel bolts, had to remove the stock mopar locating stud rivet that sticks out from the drum but other than that the wheels fitted fine and the stock Plymouth wheel bolts held the wheels fine.......these wheels were the standard offset, multi fit rims............a mate on his car a few yrs ago had knocked the rivets holding the brake drum to the front and rear hubs out then drilled the hubs to allow wheel studs, Ford I think which were easy to get here, to be pressed in from the back of the hubs and he was then able to remove the mopar brake drums easily without having to resort to the puller on the rear........the brakes apparently were unaffected which made sense.........andyd

post-612-0-81630600-1430430186_thumb.jpg

Edited by Andydodge
Posted (edited)

Before switching to disc brakes I used the screw in studs, got them from a speed shop. To keep the threads all the same I got 2 Right side drums and mounted them on  the left front and rear. That allowed me to use the same studs and lug nuts on  both sides. No more remembering right or left to loosen.  

 

I used studs specifically made that thread into the hub in place of the lug bolts. They have a stop so they only go in so far. It takes an allen wrench to thread into the hub, use a little Loctite and you're good to go.

something like this?  they just screw in through the back? anyone have a set of right hand drums???

forgot the link.... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msr-8000/overview/

Edited by belvedere666
Posted

I used Wheel Vintique Chrome Smoothies on the Plymouth with the stock brake drums and wheel bolts, had to remove the stock mopar locating stud rivet that sticks out from the drum but other than that the wheels fitted fine and the stock Plymouth wheel bolts held the wheels fine.......these wheels were the standard offset, multi fit rims............a mate on his car a few yrs ago had knocked the rivets holding the brake drum to the front and rear hubs out then drilled the hubs to allow wheel studs, Ford I think which were easy to get here, to be pressed in from the back of the hubs and he was then able to remove the mopar brake drums easily without having to resort to the puller on the rear........the brakes apparently were unaffected which made sense.........andyd

the car has smoothies right now, which works because the caps cover the bolts. i'll be putting skirts on the back and the car is low enough to not have to worry about what the rim looks like in the back, but i want the mag wheel o a skinny white wall look i the front.

Posted (edited)

something like this?  they just screw in through the back? anyone have a set of right hand drums???

forgot the link.... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msr-8000/overview/

 

No, something like this:648trailerpart.jpg

The short end threads into the hub, the long end has a recess for an allen wrench to tighten it into the hub. Don't know if LH thread is available, since both sides on my car are RH. Got them at the HP swap meet at Vets Stadium here in Long Beach.....Lug Nut King, I think.

 

Check with Lug Nut King in Fontana, may have LH studs.

Edited by deathbound
  • Like 1
Posted

No, something like this:648trailerpart.jpg

The short end threads into the hub, the long end has a recess for an allen wrench to tighten it into the hub. Don't know if LH thread is available, since both sides on my car are RH. Got them at the HP swap meet at Vets Stadium here in Long Beach.....Lug Nut King, I think.

 

Check with Lug Nut King in Fontana, may have LH studs.

Those look like what I used. They go in from the outside of the drum. You tighten them with an allen wrench and run them down to the shoulder. I also added Loctite to the threaded portion that screws into the drum to keep them secure. I believe they come in different lengths too. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I bought mine about 8 years ago from a place in Joliet, IL. called Winner's Circle. They had to order them. I think they said they were made by American Racing. 

Posted

Deathbound........thanks for the pic of those double ended studs, had never seen such an animal for wheels.........very interesting..........andyd

  • 1 month later...
Posted

finally got around to calling Lug Nut King...

Guy said they have what i need, but they ONLY do Right Hand studs. So the search is on for 2 right hand rear drums and 1 right hand front dum. Anyone?

Posted

finally got around to calling Lug Nut King...

Guy said they have what i need, but they ONLY do Right Hand studs. So the search is on for 2 right hand rear drums and 1 right hand front dum. Anyone?

If you are looking to buy from a member, you need to post in the classified section. . . I'm going on the assumption here that you are asking for possible vendors so I'll leave this post be.

  • Like 1
Posted

If you are looking to buy from a member, you need to post in the classified section. . . I'm going on the assumption here that you are asking for possible vendors so I'll leave this post be.

possible vendors here. i also have an ad in the classified sections.

thanks!

Posted

Look at my post in this thread...http://p15-d24.com/topic/32915-wheel-studs/

I had my fronts done in about 45 minutes for about $25.

are these the studs?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-610-258?seid=srese1&gclid=CJ_xjJar_MUCFYqIfgodq7sAnA

will these work even though my threads are stripped on one drum because i'm drilling them out? how tight do they fit when theyre pressed in without having the teeth?

i pressed new studs, by hand, into my 2007 chrysler to replace damaged ones but the hubs had the little teeth in them that allowed them to grip.

Posted

are these the studs?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-610-258?seid=srese1&gclid=CJ_xjJar_MUCFYqIfgodq7sAnA

will these work even though my threads are stripped on one drum because i'm drilling them out? how tight do they fit when theyre pressed in without having the teeth?

i pressed new studs, by hand, into my 2007 chrysler to replace damaged ones but the hubs had the little teeth in them that allowed them to grip.

They should work fine. I've had mine in for about three years now. I even removed the drums and went with disk brakes and they are still great. The studs will bite into the drilled hole so the serrations aren't necessary.

  • Like 1

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