16" radial tire size recommendations, rim setbacks

[Bobacuda]

My original rims are for 6.5 x 16" tires (1953 Dodge B4B, 1/2 ton, 116" wheelbase).

 

I am reassembling my truck as original as practical and I want to run 16" radial tires.  However, due to rust I am having new "barrels" put on my stock rim centers.  My original barrels measured 4.5 across the inside, the new ones will measure 6".  The shop contacted me today and said the stock setback was 3 3/8" and the closest they could get without "flipping the rim" was 4".  The original outside space was 2 1/4".  The new one would be 3".

 

First question - Does anyone have experience with this or do any of you see a problem?

 

Second Question - I have seen lots of sizes recommended, mostly for 15" on this site.  In the opinion of those of you running 16" radials, especially if your rim's setbacks will be close to mine, what size tire would you recommend.

 

Second question - any problems hitting the tires on the front hitting the frame or any of the fenders hitting the insides of the fenders with your radial tires?

 

Thanks,

Bob

[Plymouthy Adams]

if you are running stock drivetrain...your answer is going to be what size/profile tire will closest match the height of the original tire and replicate the reveloutions per mile..use a tire calculator as found online and plug in the sizes and adjust height and wide aspect till you closely match that original tire data

Edited February 26, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams

[Larry Leibhart]

If you have a low geared rear end 4:10 ratio you might want to consider a taller tire. I plan on running 215/85R16 tires on my B2B thus increasing my upper end speed.

[Bobacuda]

I am running the original engine, fluid drive and 3-speed.  I changed out the original rear with the 4.11's for a 1990 Dakota diff (no tag, so I don't know its ratio - yet).  The Dakota diff had no leaks, so I have not torn into it yet.  think it is in the 3.5 range.  If it does not "work well" after the final reassembly of the truck, I will take it apart and go with 3.5-3.7 range rear gears.  Now, back to my rim setback and tire size questions.

 

I know some of you are using 16" radials.  Some on 4.5" rims, some of you must be using wider rims with different setbacks.  Here are the comparisons I found for the 6.50-16" to a couple of radials:

 

Tire size: 6.50-16        Height: 29.30”  Width: 6.80”

            215-75-16                    28.70              8.46

            225-75-16                    29.29              8.86

 

I know the tires will fit the rims.  What I need to know is will the setback being proposed for my rebuilt rims and these radials work under my truck without rubbing fenders, chassis, etc.?  Looking for sage wisdom and the voice of experience.

 

Thanks for the input thus far.

Bob

[Young Ed]

Bob I am running 215 85 R16s but on stock rims. My truck is a 46 with a different steering arrangement but I had to adjust my turning stop as I was rubbing on left turns. I am sorry to say but I think you are venturing into new territory here and may need to figure out how to do your own measuring. I think I've seen people cut a plywood disk and mount it to the drum and them measure forward and backwards. Who is doing the wheel modifying and do they have any advice on how to check?

[Dave72dt]

Easiest way to be sure is to build a simple tool for measuring.   All you need is .something clamped to the wheel mounting surface of the axle that will extend outward 15 to 17  inches and another at a right angle to it towards the box side and give the axle a slow turn.  Your maximum offset will be the closest distance to the box side/inner fender minus about an inch for tire bulge past the rim.  You can do the same for the outside and determine the maximum width of the rim you can use.  If doing that, you also need to remember that rim width is measured from inside the bead area, not the outside.

 

The dimensions will vary depending on axle choice and must be measured.  Fenders under the trucks offer quite a bit of space. With my current axle choice, doing the math allows me( I think, haven't tried it yet ) to run a 8" rim with a 2 1/2 inch backspace and keep the wheel track width the same as factory.

 

 

Rim correction width for mine - 8", not 10"

Edited February 26, 2015 by Dave72dt

[Plymouthy Adams]

your main possible concern with the tires as I can see it is the front and relationship to tie rod...on the truck I have no first hand experience..on a car of the era going to radials and modern (mid 80"s Chrysler rim) place the rubber very close to the tie rod and could cause rub...I used a 1/4 spacer and added a comfort margin and had zero problems..no rub on turns at either left or right lock...

[Bobacuda]

My rims' barrels were rusted to death near the valve stems - one had rusted through in two places (where you could not readily see the holes standing outside of the truck looking at them.  "The Wheelsmith" in California is doing the work - too far for me to drive and compare.  I could not find any shops in Texas doing this work.  They may be out there, and if they are, they have not learned how to use the internet or to advertise.  I contacted at least 6 other shops, mostly in CA, one in FL - several had bad reviews and one told me that if I sent them the barrels and my wheels, they could do the work (told me "Use the 'net., you might find the barrels."). 

 

I chose The Wheelsmith based on glowing online reviews - many of them on the HAMB. For me, this was basically my last resort.  I am probably going to use the 215's, just to have a little less width, unless someone knows if this will work.

 

I have pretty much conceded that I will be changing bump stops or spaces on the front end - but there is always hope   

[Young Ed]

your main possible concern with the tires as I can see it is the front and relationship to tie rod...on the truck I have no first hand experience..on a car of the era going to radials and modern (mid 80"s Chrysler rim) place the rubber very close to the tie rod and could cause rub...I used a 1/4 spacer and added a comfort margin and had zero problems..no rub on turns at either left or right lock...

My truck is a little different than a PH but my rub is the left front only and the pitman arm.