james curl Posted January 19, 2015 Report Posted January 19, 2015 rpm=(mph X gear ratio X 336) divided by the tire diameter. Your car should have come with a 3.9:1 or a 4.11:1 rear end. The 4.11:1 are more common to vehicles sold in mountainous country side or with an over drive transmission. If yours was local it is possible that it could have a 4.11:1 rear end ratio. Quote
TodFitch Posted January 19, 2015 Report Posted January 19, 2015 See http://www.ply33.com/Misc/speed I have done 500 or so mile stretches at 60 MPH with the stock 4.375 rear end in my '33. Assuming you have a 4.11 and tires with a similar mounted diameter to mine then it should cruise at 65 MPH as long as the mechanicals are in good shape. Quote
perrymedik Posted January 21, 2015 Author Report Posted January 21, 2015 PROBLEM! Drove the car to work this morning. Let it warm up in the garage for 10-15 min, hopped in and I couldn't get into Reverse. No grinding, and not like it goes in and won't engage. I just can't get the shifter to go up into the slot - like it's blocked. Pushed out of the drive way and drove to work thinking that maybe it just needed to be spun and warmed up. Got to work (15 min drive of 6-ish miles) and tired to back into a parking spot. Same thing. So now I am here at work and I don't have my Svc Manual here. Any suggestions as to what to look at first when I get home and up on ramps? Quote
Jim Yergin Posted January 21, 2015 Report Posted January 21, 2015 I would adjust the selector rod on the transmission. It is the one with the spring and the nut on it. Probably needs to be tightened. Jim Yergin 1 Quote
perrymedik Posted January 21, 2015 Author Report Posted January 21, 2015 So according to the Manual it says that hard shifting into low or reverse my result if the selector rod is adjusted too long. I don't have any problems shifting into first (or low), but reverse is completely blocked. It also mentions that failure to shift into low or reverse,without re-engaging the clutch is generally related to "gear butting". I can't get it into reverse no matter how many times i engage or disengage the clutch. It seems like neither is a perfect fit for my particular problem. Of note: While I was getting the defective muffler replaced yesterday they let me under the car to do the lubrication maintenance on all of the Zerk fittings. One of the fittings that was serviced was the Clutch Torque Shaft and the Gear Shaft Bell Crank. The car backed off of the ramp fine and the problem didn't exhibit itself until this morning when I was going to take the car out. Would the service of those areas with fresh grease play any roll in this problem? I have no problems shifting from Neutral all the way up to 3rd and back down again. With the exception of the before mentioned grind into 1st from neutral if I depress the clutch and try to go into 1st right away, which was explained to me was because 1st doesn't have a syncro and needs a moment to stop spinning. I'll give the selector rod an adjustment and see what that does, but look forward to your thoughts! Thanks! Cory Quote
perrymedik Posted January 21, 2015 Author Report Posted January 21, 2015 Ok. Shortened up the Selector Rod a little bit and give it a shot with the engine off, the feel of it made me to think to shorten it a little more. Retested (engine still not running) and felt good through all gears. Started the engine an was still able to smoothly engage Reverse and 1-3. Backed it off the ramps and down the drive way. Stopping and going back to neutral then 1st then back to Reverse. Still good. Took it for a drive around the block hitting all 3 forward gears and was smooth. Drove past the drive way, and back up a few more times. Feels like problem solved. Put it back up on the ramps to address some transmission fluid leaks. Thanks for the guidance Jim Yergin! Quote
Jim Yergin Posted January 21, 2015 Report Posted January 21, 2015 You are welcome. Glad to hear you solved the problem. Jim Yergin Quote
perrymedik Posted January 27, 2015 Author Report Posted January 27, 2015 (edited) Now I know for a fact that I posted in the month of January, no more then a week and a half ago about my Carb and the engine running too rich. I also know that I got some good feed back (Don Coatney I specifically remember) about the high idle cam, someone else recommended pulling the main metering jet to get the numbers to make sure it was the right one, but now I can’t find anything in the post time line. Was there a data loss or something or did I dream it up? I recall Don asking me if the high idle cam was dropping out. He even posed a picture (I know I’m not crazy!!) So I had my wife take a video while I started the car and then once it was running in high idle I took some measurements. At high idle and engine at temp my Tach is at 1000 RPM. Once I hit the accelerator the cam does drop and the RPMs drop to between 500-550. For some reason I can't imbed the video from photo bucket, but here is the direct link of the High Idle Lobe dropping out: http://vid245.photobucket.com/albums/gg48/perrymedik/1949%20P-18%20Rebuild%20Project/F8FA6999-BCF0-442A-855C-BA42639EA26F.mp4 And this is of the Tach at low idle: http://vid245.photobucket.com/albums/gg48/perrymedik/1949%20P-18%20Rebuild%20Project/40A32589-32FF-4E61-83C0-9CE1BC15F1F4.mp4 I'll have the video posted on YouTube once it is uploaded. I pulled the Main metering jet and along the top of the jet it has the numbers 22411- (nothing after the dash) and along the bottom it has the number 256. No picture as it was difficult to read and I need a magnifying glass and flashlight to clearly discern all of the inscriptions. The service manual calls for something close. If you look in the far left column for the main metering jet it mentions “-1 Size Lean” but I don’t know what that refers to. I would love to be enlightened on that. I then proceeded to put everything back together and flooded out the carb. I think I put the Float and its clip back in incorrectly so that the clip was binding with the float and not letting it raise so fuel was coming out of the opening in the bottom of the carb where the accelerator pump rod comes out and connects to the Accelerating Pump Lever. Any way got that fixed, let it air out, and just started the car with no problems and no leaks. So to recap: 1. The High Idle Cam does drop out. 2. I now know what the number on the Main Metering Jet is, but still not sure if its correct. 3. There are two jets listed for that carb and model car, but I don’t know what the difference is between the two. 4. It is still running very rich smelling – despite the plugs looking like they should If the weather is good tomorrow I’ll take it to work and get some gas on the way home and I should be able to give you an idea on the MPG (that was another question someone asked). Any input would be appreciated!! Cory Edited January 27, 2015 by perrymedik Quote
Niel Hoback Posted January 28, 2015 Report Posted January 28, 2015 Can you adjust the idle down by backing out the screw? If not, you may have to lengthen the linkage where it goes across the head. Easy and simple to do. Does your return spring have enough strength to pull the linkage all the way back? None of those conditions will make it run any richer than normal, but you should be able to get down to 400 RPM at least. The difference in the jet size is rather irrelevant because even the larger size is not too big for the carb. You gas mileage figures are important because they will be the true indicator of your mixture. I' m leery of harping on this, but, these cars, all old cars without a catalytic converter have a very strong exhaust smell compared to what we have become used to smelling. Underhood odors also seem to permeate the interior also through small openings in the firewall and floor. Here's hoping you get a good MPG result. Quote
_shel_ny Posted January 28, 2015 Report Posted January 28, 2015 Now I know for a fact that I posted in the month of January, no more then a week and a half ago about my Carb and the engine running too rich. I also know that I got some good feed back (Don Coatney I specifically remember) about the high idle cam, someone else recommended pulling the main metering jet to get the numbers to make sure it was the right one, but now I can’t find anything in the post time line. Was there a data loss or something or did I dream it up? http://p15-d24.com/topic/37897-site-outage-last-night-900-pm-to-100-am-pst/ Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 28, 2015 Report Posted January 28, 2015 There was a forum server hiccup a few days ago and a bunch of posting were lost. So you are not quite as crazy as you thought you were. Quote
perrymedik Posted January 28, 2015 Author Report Posted January 28, 2015 Shel_ny and Don Coatney: Thanks for that info!! Now I can rest easy that I've not lost my marbles! To update my data: I filled up with gas this morning and plugged the info into my App, and it says I am getting 10.70 MPG. I was unable to find any info in my Service Manual or my Owners Manual "Good Going in you new Plymouth" on what the expected MPG should be. If this is low I would point out that this might be low due to allowing it to High Idle in the mornings for 15-20 min, but this may have no bearing on the situation. My plan for today is to: 1. Install a second inline fuel filter between the fuel pump and the carb as was recommended previously. 2. Remove the rear nut on the Driver side lower control arm, remove the broken Zerk fitting and install a new one after tapping the hole. 3. Place some sealant on the forward valve cover to stop the leak even though new seals were installed, it still leaks. 4. Try to adjust the Hood forward because it catches ever so slightly at the point in the rear of the hood which has caused the paint to chip and rust to settle in. If I can accomplish all of that then I may try to find the correct drill bit and put the Helicoils in the Rear Passenger wheel so that it doesn't fall off. I also need to disassemble the heater and install the other louver that was rusted and the screw broke off. So drill, and tap for a new one and install. And a valuable lesson learned: If it comes off, it gets painted before it goes back in!!!! Any thoughts on my MPG and the rich smell of my exhaust are welcome. I know that I've been warned not to compare to modern vehicles with catalytic converters and I have that well in mind. So, if my MPGs are good, and the engine is running well (it is), then I will just have to take it for what it is and quite thinking I have a problem! Thanks again!! I'm running out of things to fix!! Next will be the Radio and considerations for paint and body work. But that will be a different thread in a different part of the forum. You guy's are awesome! Cory Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 28, 2015 Report Posted January 28, 2015 Re-tapping the threads for the grease zerk will require a tapered pipe tap. I just checked my tapered pipe tap inventory and I do not have a tapered pipe tap that small. Most likely you will get by without re-tapping the hole anyway. Quote
TodFitch Posted January 28, 2015 Report Posted January 28, 2015 . . . I filled up with gas this morning and plugged the info into my App, and it says I am getting 10.70 MPG. I was unable to find any info in my Service Manual or my Owners Manual "Good Going in you new Plymouth" on what the expected MPG should be. If this is low I would point out that this might be low due to allowing it to High Idle in the mornings for 15-20 min, but this may have no bearing on the situation. . . Over the last 10,000 miles of driving my 1933 PD with its 4.375 rear end has averaged 14.8 MPG. I suspect that your P19 is geared a bit taller than my PD and it has far better aerodynamics so I would expect it to get the same or better mileage than I am getting. Any particular reason to have it in high idle for 15 to 20 minutes in the mornings? Once the oil pressure is up all the surfaces should be protected. And gentle driving until the parts reach operating temperature does little harm. Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 28, 2015 Report Posted January 28, 2015 Gas mileage is not only based on engine/vehicle efficiency but equally or perhaps even more so on driving habits. Every time the brakes are used on any vehicle the fuel economy drops. To get up to speed burns fuel. Use of the brakes means the fuel already burned will not carry you as far as is possible. If I see a red light a block or more away I take my foot off the accelerator and coast. This really aggravates the driver behind me and they frequently change lanes and speed past me then slam on the brakes at the stop light. I coast past them and continue thru the green light never touching my brake pedal and the same scenario is repeated at the next stop light. I also get well above average miles on brake pad replacement. I chuckle at the drivers that have a foot on the gas or brake pedal at all times when driving and tailgate as if they are going to get wherever they are going faster. I also always leave early if I have an appointment to make so there is no need to speed. If one has an appointment with there Doctor, shrink, a really hot date, or hairdresser you can bet that they will not start until you get there. I follow these driving guidelines no matter what vehicle I am driving. But I have never done a mileage check on my old Plymouth. Logic being I did not buy and build this vehicle to compete in the Mobil Economy run. No matter what the cost of gasoline I drive the Plymouth for the thrill of driving it and fuel economy is the last thing on my mind. Quote
DonaldSmith Posted January 28, 2015 Report Posted January 28, 2015 Gas mileage is helped by using the highest (lowest numerical) gear. My dad once told of the time he was a passenger in his father's car. After grandpa got the car up to a moderate speed, my dad suggested that he shift up from second to third. Grandpa responded, "I'm going fast enough." There are times when a son shouldn't pursue the matter further. Quote
Don Coatney Posted January 28, 2015 Report Posted January 28, 2015 My mother drove a 48 Buick Fireball 8. She did not like to shift. She would wind that engine tight in first gear then drop it into third never using second gear. There are times when a son shouldn't pursue the matter further. Quote
perrymedik Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Posted January 29, 2015 (edited) Talk about things not going to plan. . . . . I tried to install the second fuel filter, but the clips that were supposed to secure the flex hose to the hard line didn't have enough "umph" to them and when I would start the motor fuel would begin to spray every direction!! Gave me a freaking heart attack. I could envision the engine compartment turning in the a ball of flames, and then my garage shortly there after. Will be stopping by NAPA tomorrow for some proper clamps. But while I had the fuel line out I took the opportunity to take off the access panel of the heater, clean it out, paint it, and reinstall the vent after drilling and tapping a new hole for the bottom shaft screw. Then while that was drying I pulled the heater core out and spruced up the other side and cleaned out the rust and lubricated the turning mechinism and then reassembled. I sprayed so of that Fluid Film on some rust spots inside the box as a preservation measure. Probably a good idea, but Fluid Film apparently has a unique odor. I hope that it goes away when it dries. As for the other items on my to-do list for the day . . . . . Nada. Didn't even make it to them. The best laid plans and all. LOL! Don: I'm with you, I'm driving the car for the pure joy of it, not to be my economy car. But I was hoping that the MPG would give me an indicator as to whether I was imagining the mix being too rich or not. Oh well. The car runs fine. The plugs look fine. I think I'll just sit on the issue for a bit and see if anything develops. TodFitch: I don't know what rear end I have in my P18. I know on most cars there is usually some kind of marking on the pumpkin, and to be honest, I've just never taken the time to look. But it would be a good piece of info to have. Don: As for tapping the Zerk Fitting. The Zerk fittings I bough were straight shaft. Would those be inappropriate to use? Though I do recall seeing the kind that you can hammer in at NAPA today. Once I get it out maybe I can find the same size and just pound in a new one. That would probably be the easier/better solution. But now I am tired and it is time for some relaxation! Motor well everyone! Cory Edited January 29, 2015 by perrymedik Quote
soth122003 Posted January 29, 2015 Report Posted January 29, 2015 The MPG I am getting from my 48 P-15 is between 15.8 and 18 MPG. Like was said here before, driving habits can make or break fuel mileage. I drive rather conservative. 50-55 highway and minimal breaking, and I coast up to the stop lights from a good ways away. Joe Quote
perrymedik Posted February 2, 2015 Author Report Posted February 2, 2015 And I have a leak . . . . but I'm sure everyone does. This one is coming from inside the cabin under the dash on the passenger side at the firewall where the Heat Control valve is. It just started the other day. I can make it not as bad by turning the temp all the way up, which pushes the plunger all the way forward. From what I can see, the seal from the plunger has finally disintegrated and will need replaced. I began to take it off and got every thing disconnected except for what I believe the manual is referring to as the capillary tube, but to be honest it looks like just a piece of coper wire about the thickness of a good coat hanger, maybe a little thicker. I also think it is a wire and not a tube. The problem is that I can't seem to figure out how to disconnect it, and I don't want to break it. My Service Manual is again vague and refers to detailed instructions that are furnished with each heater package. I don't have that. Does anyone have any recommendations on how to get this loose without damage so that I can remove the unit and work on trying to fix it? I've googled and searched the site with no luck addressing my problem. Below are some pictures of what I've got and where that tube/wire goes. Quote
soth122003 Posted February 2, 2015 Report Posted February 2, 2015 It does look like a wire. I'd follow it all the way back to where it terminates and make sure. If it is a wire, cut it close to the unit and put a bullet connector on it for future maintenance. I would also unwrap that tape and see what is under there as well. Might be a disconnect point. Joe Quote
Niel Hoback Posted February 2, 2015 Report Posted February 2, 2015 That is a copper tube and must be treated with care. Do not kink it or, heaven forbid, break it. I would remove every thing that it is connected to along with the heater core. Handle with care and reinstall, placed just like it was. Quote
perrymedik Posted February 3, 2015 Author Report Posted February 3, 2015 Niel Hoback: Thank you for the advice! I am in the process of looking for a replacement or rebuild kit for this Thermostatic Water Control Valve. Struck out at NAPA. If anyone has and knowledge of where to get it (not www.oldsobsolete.com, they want $225) to shorten my search and stretch my dollar, I wouldn't complain! Thanks! Quote
perrymedik Posted February 3, 2015 Author Report Posted February 3, 2015 Found a rebuild kit at this site (http://arizonaparts.com/index.html). I don't know if anyone has used Arizona Parts before, but they seem to have a decent selection of NOS MoPar items and for what I needed, they were way less expensive then anything else I was able to find on-line. $15 for the rebuild kit and $5 for shipping. The only down side is that they do not accept credit cards. They do accept PayPal, Money Order, and personal checks (2 week wait for check to clear). But since I have PayPal it was all good. I'll let you know how it turns out! Cory Quote
_shel_ny Posted February 3, 2015 Report Posted February 3, 2015 (edited) Found a rebuild kit at this site (http://arizonaparts.com/index.html). I don't know if anyone has used Arizona Parts before, but they seem to have a decent selection of NOS MoPar items and for what I needed, they were way less expensive then anything else I was able to find on-line. Just did some business with arizonaparts. Positive experience Edited February 3, 2015 by shel_ny Quote
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