JerseyHarold Posted September 11, 2014 Report Posted September 11, 2014 I've had a couple of stuck Plymouth engines that didn't respond to soaking. When I pulled the heads off, the cylinders didn't look rusty but each piston was stuck in its bore nevertheless and had to be hammered out. If any pistons are at the bottom of their travel in the cylinder, they will not respond to rocking the crankshaft with a breaker bar because there is no upward push from the crankshaft (the connecting rod pivots on the wrist pin). 1 Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted September 11, 2014 Report Posted September 11, 2014 I've had a couple of stuck Plymouth engines that didn't respond to soaking. When I pulled the heads off, the cylinders didn't look rusty but each piston was stuck in its bore nevertheless and had to be hammered out. If any pistons are at the bottom of their travel in the cylinder, they will not respond to rocking the crankshaft with a breaker bar because there is no upward push from the crankshaft (the connecting rod pivots on the wrist pin). Harold; Where these engines that had run as recently as 3 years back? I could see that on an old junk yard engine that was outside and and you didn't know the history on it. It is just really hard to picture an engine that was in this truck running 3 years back and now it is seized solid? Maybe it got water in the bores? Jeff Quote
wildwilf Posted September 11, 2014 Author Report Posted September 11, 2014 after I had it running I drain it so it won't freeze up over the winter. Quote
DJ194950 Posted September 12, 2014 Report Posted September 12, 2014 Did you remove the flywheel when the trans/clutch work was done? Problems have been reported about the bolts or nuts on the back side between the flywheel and motor hitting and locking a motor tight against rotation. Remove the lower inspection cover on the bell housing and look in that area for any problems. Another thought, Good luck, DJ Quote
JerseyHarold Posted September 12, 2014 Report Posted September 12, 2014 Harold; Where these engines that had run as recently as 3 years back? I could see that on an old junk yard engine that was outside and and you didn't know the history on it. It is just really hard to picture an engine that was in this truck running 3 years back and now it is seized solid? Maybe it got water in the bores? Jeff One engine sat for less than 6 months and locked-up. The other was in a car that was in a garage nearly 20 years. The visible part of the cylinders in both engines were clean. I think environmental moisture under the piston (coming in through the road draft tube and oil breather cap) is a factor too. The only way to soak the lower rings would be to pull the engine, remove the pan, and turn the motor upside down. Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted September 12, 2014 Report Posted September 12, 2014 Harold; Oh I see. You will have to excuse my ignorance of that set of conditions. I have spent my entire life in the LA Basin and that stuff doesn't really happen here. In fact my truck had sat outdoors for around 20 years and turned right over. I went ahead and pulled the head and drooped the oil pan because I didn't want the unknown biting me. When I inspected things I found not trace of rust or corrosion in the internals. I suppose we will have to wait to see what Wilf comes up with. I still think it is likely that it is something other than a seized engine based on what he is saying. Jeff Quote
JerseyHarold Posted September 12, 2014 Report Posted September 12, 2014 Oh I see. You will have to excuse my ignorance of that set of conditions. I have spent my entire life in the LA Basin and that stuff doesn't really happen here. I envy you west coasters when it comes to rust (or lack thereof). I remember seeing junkyard Plymouths in California that were far more solid than any I've owned. Quote
TrampSteer Posted September 13, 2014 Report Posted September 13, 2014 ... sat outdoors for around 20 years and turned right over ... My buddy just fired up a 40's Jeep that sat for five years. Gasoline in the tank and air in the tires. Gotta love So Cal. Quote
wildwilf Posted September 21, 2014 Author Report Posted September 21, 2014 Update Today I finally got the chance to pull the head, valve covers and oil pan and here is what I found all the cylinders are rust free, sprayed PBBlaster in all cylinders and the first 4 drained away over time the last 2 it is still sitting there. the crank and connecting rods look brand new except the last 2 connecting rods do show some rust. (there was no water anywhere it shouldn't have been) sprayed PBBlaster all over everything. No rust on the valve train all the valves move prying them up. So now it is a waiting game to see if it will do and good. Going to respray everything again tomorrow Wilf Quote
wildwilf Posted September 21, 2014 Author Report Posted September 21, 2014 Did you remove the flywheel when the trans/clutch work was done? Problems have been reported about the bolts or nuts on the back side between the flywheel and motor hitting and locking a motor tight against rotation. Remove the lower inspection cover on the bell housing and look in that area for any problems. Another thought, Good luck, DJ Sorry I missed your question the flywheel and clutch were never removed just the transmission Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted September 21, 2014 Report Posted September 21, 2014 Just an idea but you could try a strap wrench on the main pulley. You are probably going to have rock it back and forth to get it to break loose. Going in one direction only just doesn't seem to work. Jeff Quote
wildwilf Posted September 21, 2014 Author Report Posted September 21, 2014 I have been rocking it back and forth with a breaker bar. this morning the PBBlaster has left the rear 2 cylinders but still won't turn sprayed in more PB just in case it only loosened up in one spot Quote
Young Ed Posted September 21, 2014 Report Posted September 21, 2014 Are you spraying the valves too? Quote
JerseyHarold Posted September 21, 2014 Report Posted September 21, 2014 This has been met with controversy here before, but you might try giving the crankshaft nut a few quick "BRRRPPP's" with an impact gun. The vibrations may help loosen things up. Quote
wildwilf Posted September 21, 2014 Author Report Posted September 21, 2014 Are you spraying the valves too? I've been spraying every thing that is supposed to move. Top of the valve as well as the valve stems, springs everything. I can get the valves to move prying up from the cam shaft. Quote
wildwilf Posted September 21, 2014 Author Report Posted September 21, 2014 My compressor quit and I haven't replaced it yet Quote
NiftyFifty Posted September 22, 2014 Report Posted September 22, 2014 Impacts just strip out bolts and nuts and do damage, it really wouldn't do anything to losen the motor vs a breaker bar and rocking back and forth. I'm wondering if you have valve rust issues vs cylinders as you describe how clean they are. Quote
wildwilf Posted September 23, 2014 Author Report Posted September 23, 2014 It is now turning fine. to day I jacked up the ass end so it was level because I noticed that the PBBlaster wasn't lying flat in the cylinders. Resprayed all the cylinders left it for about 2 hours then started to rock it back and forth with a breaker bar and it let out a little crack noise and started to turn. So I started to rock it back and forth a little at a time and now I can get it to turn round and round. What a relief it is knowing that I don't have to pull the motor. Except to get 60 years of road grime off and paint it. I would like to thank everybody for all the help with this matter. It is greatly appreciated. And I would like to thank the makers of PBBlaster. 1 Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted September 23, 2014 Report Posted September 23, 2014 Congrats! That has to be a good feeling. Jeff Quote
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