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Posted

Does any one have any pics of lowered suburban's and if so I need to pick there brain for measurements. Setting up a mustang ii and coil over rear suspension and not sure where I want to set it yet. Any pics would be helpful thanks

Brian

Posted

Is that the Plymouth Suburban station wagon, or the DeSoto Suburban long wheelbase people-and-stuff hauler?

 

My DeSoto was a little high in the rear end, so I added 2-inch lowering blocks.  Of course, the right way is to get the springs re arcked.  arc-ed? 

 

(How do you spell "arc" when adding "ing" or "ed", to keep the "C" hard?  It's not "arched".  Inquiring minds want to know.  Other minds couldn't care less.) 

Posted

Its a dodge

As for the spelling of "arc" that is a good question. Never really thought about that. ;)

Posted (edited)

Is that the Plymouth Suburban station wagon, or the DeSoto Suburban long wheelbase people-and-stuff hauler?

 

My DeSoto was a little high in the rear end, so I added 2-inch lowering blocks.  Of course, the right way is to get the springs re arcked.  arc-ed? 

 

(How do you spell "arc" when adding "ing" or "ed", to keep the "C" hard?  It's not "arched".  Inquiring minds want to know.  Other minds couldn't care less.) 

found in a number of dictionaries..even online..you will be surprised at your tininking..as arced is correct...as is arcing

 

I do think in this instance..if you were to have had the spring arched (re-arched) would also be correct as it is relating to position them back to their original semi elliptical shape..

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
Posted

Is that the Plymouth Suburban station wagon, or the DeSoto Suburban long wheelbase people-and-stuff hauler?

 

My DeSoto was a little high in the rear end, so I added 2-inch lowering blocks.  Of course, the right way is to get the springs re arcked.  arc-ed? 

 

(How do you spell "arc" when adding "ing" or "ed", to keep the "C" hard?  It's not "arched".  Inquiring minds want to know.  Other minds couldn't care less.) 

Hey Don,

 

My Suburban is too low in the back.  Does yours have the commercial springs in it?  They would be the 9 Spring Version.

 

Eaton pulled the blueprints on the springs for the 1946 to 1949 Desoto Suburban's:

 

The standard spring:

Has 8 leafs with a load of 880 lbs and a rate of 98 lbs.

 

The heavy duty Spring:

Has 9 leafs with a load of 800 lbs and the rate if 140 lbs.

 

I asked about the load ratings and was told that it is a combination of the two load and rate that matters not just the load number.

 

Best, James

 

 

 

James

Posted (edited)
James_Douglas, on 01 Jun 2014 - 2:36 PM, said:James_Douglas, on 01 Jun 2014 - 2:36 PM, said:

Hey Don,

 

My Suburban is too low in the back.  Does yours have the commercial springs in it?  They would be the 9 Spring Version.

 

Eaton pulled the blueprints on the springs for the 1946 to 1949 Desoto Suburban's:

 

The standard spring:

Has 8 leafs with a load of 880 lbs and a rate of 98 lbs.

 

The heavy duty Spring:

Has 9 leafs with a load of 800 lbs and the rate if 140 lbs.

 

I asked about the load ratings and was told that it is a combination of the two load and rate that matters not just the load number.

 

Best, James

 

 

 

James

did the man at Eaton actually explain this dual rating and their relationaship to one another and how they by design they interact on the cars suspension?  The number do matter...the lower the rate the softer the ride...the load is the total weight it is designed to carry at x deflection (load)

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
Posted

I've got eight leaves in each rear spring.  By the way, I put some anti-friction material between the leaves some years ago.  I forget where I bought the product. 

 

post-126-0-26696800-1401652566_thumb.jpg 

Posted

did the man at Eaton actually explain this dual rating and their relationaship to one another and how they by design they interact on the cars suspension?  The number do matter...the lower the rate the softer the ride...the load is the total weight it is designed to carry at x deflection (load)

In the Master Parts book it does list two sets of rear springs for the car.  One is a standard spring and the other is a "Commercial and Heavy Duty Service" spring. 

 

I am assuming that the load and rate ratings Eaton is providing they took directly off of the original MOPAR blueprints. 

 

James

Posted

These forum members have way more experience on rear spring so defer to them, but on my 50 Suburban it had at least 9 springs and also an overload spring that only worked after the rear was heavy? loaded. Took overloads off removed rear springs and removed at least 3 leaves after cleaning and a high pressure grease applied. Old springs are almost already sagged as compared to new stock.

How much lower in the rear is totally personal choice. Do and internet search for pics of your year Suburban. Hours worth to look at.

Mustang II early springs are readily avail. at most parts stores in a 4 cyl., 6cyl., and 8 cyl. versions!

All will depend on your engine and trans. weights. But my experience was I tried all three and ended up with 4 cyl. springs w/1coil cut even with a off brand v-8 an 700 r-4.

Will dig around  this mess of a computer to see if I can find some side pics.

Car is unfinished and in storage. :(

 

DJ

Posted (edited)

I'm in the process of lowering mine right now. I did an explorer rear end swap with 3" blocks in the back and the fatman dropped uprights upfront with 1 coil cut. I will do a full write up on it soon since it will be on the road this week!

Here's some pics I have collected the last few months.

 

untitled_zps53c4db12.png

 

suburban_zps27d41a84.jpg

 

Suburbanredwhite_zpsfdd736ff.jpg

Edited by lilduec
Posted

This is mine as of a month ago. The front actually sits a little lower now too. It now has Diamondback wide whites and this week will have some Lancer 4 bar hub caps.

 

20140501_173518_zpsc2d39712.jpg

 

20140501_173540_zpsa7c7fd25.jpg

Posted

Thanks a bunch. I'm trying to figure how low I want to go. I thought I had it figured out then I seperated the body from the frame to do all the suspension and forgot to measure the frame to ground height. Frustrating

Posted

I havent driven mine yet but 3" in the rear and the rear u joint area is REALLY close to the floor. I'm thinking I may have to cut that area and raise the tunnel but we will see. The front is fine other than I have to lift the car up a bit to get the jack under the sway bar. Tires don't rub the fenders though from lock to lock, but like I said I haven't driven it yet thats just been turning them in the shop.

Posted

Thanks a bunch. I'm trying to figure how low I want to go. I thought I had it figured out then I seperated the body from the frame to do all the suspension and forgot to measure the frame to ground height. Frustrating

Did you by chance measure the body to the ground?  If you did, get the tape measure out and start the calculations, using body mount locations as a reference.  The other option is to drop the body back on and start over.  You're the only one who knows how low you want it.  Those pictures might be good for inspiration but I didn't see a tape measure attached to any of them. 

Posted

Well this is where i messed up.  I thought I wrote down measurements but can't seem to figure out where I did. I took the body off the frame and the body is now at my brothers house for storage so I have room in my small garage. I messaged a forum member and he is going to measure his for me and I will go from there.  Sucks when you forget to do something as simple as writing down a measurement.

Posted

I think you misunderstood

I was referring to all of MY info.

And I have no clue where it all is.

Went through a miserable divorce (in the process I filled 2 large and 1 half size dumpsters) and moved twice in the last 12 years.

I look for things I threw away and find crap I don't need.

Still have unopened boxes.

But it's all written down.

Posted

Oh sorry. I understand how divorces go that's for sure. Been there got the award of you get to give up everything don't want it again. That's for sure

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