roller painted decklid, color opinions? (big pictures warning)

[Guest 50Plymouth]

Here they are after the first two coats and first 400wet sand. Not too pretty yet.. uneven spots from the previous multi layers of different paints, orange peel. It takes a lot of coats. It takes almost six coats before you even start to feel like its getting better.. these were taken outside, it sprinkled just before one shot. Some of the have floating air debris sitting on surface.

After first rolled coat:

After second rolled coat:

After first wetsand, beginning with 400grit:

Ryan

[Joel Torres]

thin the paint10 to 20 %, with mineral spirits. Apply 2 coats, wetsand with 600, paint on 2 more coats wetsand 1000, roll on 2 more coats wetsand 1500. You can then poish with elcheapo trutle wax polish, the white stuff, not the wax. Or use Meguires swirl remover and buff and polish to a nice shine.The Rock

this is where i stop i dont know what the ratio should be if i have the black paint and pour 40 oz or what ever is on the side of the measuring cup which il buy tomorrow 10/20% mineral spirits would be ???? i asked the paint supply and he said {ya can't paint a car with this stuff } i said oh ok have a nice day i will look for those cups

[Guest 50Plymouth]

http://rollyourcar.com/default.aspx

I'm no expert but from infamous unbelievably long moparts thread on the topic http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=19&vc=1

the mixture is not an exact science. Temperature and humidity will somewhat play a role in what viscosity you want. I think the foam rollers I first used were not as dense as the rollers other use.

[John Nickell]

I’ve been researching this process and have seen most people thin the paint to a consistency of 1% milk. I know this is not an exact science but what with these cars are? Another interesting thing I have found is the Ace hardware brand of rust preventative paints. The store near me had a large pamphlet with optional color swatches and mention of the ability to mix up multiple other colors. I would imagine this is on the order of the XO- rust paint at True Value. The more I look into this the more viable it seems, especially now in color options.

John

[Guest 50Plymouth]

Tonight I began the comparison test using the same paint sprayed with my harbor freight 43430 hvlp spray gun. Its to early to see how it dries, but I think I'm happy with how the paint applied.

[rearview]

Hopefully it isn't as humid in Iowa tonight as it is in WI. I painted my wheels 2 hours ago and they're still wet.

[AJ Johnson]

I find it curious that you are concerned with the application process and overall appearance of the paint when you didn't even sand down the area you are painting over. I am not trying to criticize, I just find it odd. Keep up the experiment, I am quite interested.

AJ

[Guest 50Plymouth]

I find it curious that you are concerned with the application process and overall appearance of the paint when you didn't even sand down the area you are painting over. I am not trying to criticize, I just find it odd. Keep up the experiment, I am quite interested.

AJ

Not sure what area you are talking about not sanding first The hood was aggressively sanded down first, it was in bad condition with many layers of different paint. The decklid is a an ongoing layer by layer process with graduating wets sanding, when I started this thread I mentioned I was in the middle of that already. As I was loosely documenting the process, I started anew in recording only what was going on with the hood. Since its slow going I thought I would trying spraying same paint on a door to compare as I went along.

[Allan Faust]

I think what AJ meant is that even though you sanded it, as you can see in the last pic you posted.... it is quite "rough"..... it would look a lot better after using a build primer first to even out the surface before you top coat it.....

Allan

[Guest 50Plymouth]

Ah, yes. Absolutely- but that would defeat the spirit of using this cheapest paint method here such uneven spots are ugly and uneven but do not cause orange peel in themselves per say. The entire hood would no doubt benefit from a high build primer. Remember this was experimenting not an immediate plan to do a complete job. Those spots have begun to improve some with multiple coats and wet sands, but such a base primer would certainly do that in one step.

[Allan Faust]

I realize it was an experiment, I was just commenting on the misunderstanding.... looks good though..... proves that with time and patience, just about anything can be done.....

Allan

[randroid]

50 Ply,

I'm with you, bro. Painting my '48 P-15 has been a learning experience from the get-go and I, too, am doing it on the cheap. I'm learning what works best and fastest on my self-imposed budget of $150, and if you ever decide to improve the overall appearance of the job you can always feather the edges and repaint. After all, you'll have both the paint and the knowledge.

If we were to do everything we'd like we'd be playing a rich man's game, and I ain't a rich man, not monetarily, so we scoot around the periphery and do what we can when we can. I'm not knocking the guys who are fortunate to be able to do whatever they want, but the reason I got into this hobby was that I've always wanted to do a restoration of sorts and I've turned every nut and bolt on it and soldered every wire and pressed-in every window with my own hands, save for the machining when the engine was rebuilt. That's what it's about to me (and probably everybody else on this forum) because Pigiron is an old whore at heart; she's been used and abused and pushed beyond her limits too many times and asked nothing in return other than what it took to keep her alive. Most of the cars we have were taken to that point and discarded and left to die. What we do is restore a little dignity into the old girl and give her the quality of life she deserves, so when I say "restoration" I'm not talking about matching numbers

My, I do get carried away at times, don't I? Anyway, that's the Zen of my approach to this hole in the air into which we thrown time and money. Anybody else want to throw in a little philosophy?

-Randy

[Joel Torres]

how far have you gone:D

as i am subscribed to this page

i have spent the past four days feathering (sanding) my jeep smooth and plan on buying some black paint soon

[knuckleharley]

Ryan, so far not too bad, you could always work panel by panel, do the bodywork, hammer and dolly, fillers etc. Then paint it panel by panel,<<

I'm with ya on this one! I have drive cars I painted with rattle cans that looked pretty good. Not a high dollar baked on pro paint job,but not bad,either. Hell,I painted a Harley once with rattle cans that won second prize in paint at a big bike show.

>> But in the mean time you could takle all the mechanical, brakes engine, frontend, wiring etc.<<

Yup,shiny is nice,but safe is essential. Spray it with spray cans after sanding the rust away a panel at a time,fix the brakes and suspension AFTER REPLACING THE OLD BRAKE LINES AND HOSES WITH NEW ONES,and also make DAMN sure you replace all the rubber gas lines with new hoses that the new gas won't rot. If the upholstery is ripped and torn,throw a blanket over the front seat until you get the bucks to have it redone.

If you are like 99% of us you really won't enjoy riding around in a car that is rusty and beat up,but less than 100 bucks worth of sandpaper and spray paint in cans will take care of that. Spray cans don't shoot out much overspray,so spray it in your garage where you can keep the bugs and the wind from messing with you,and once it is dry to the touch,take it outside and let it bake every day in the June and July sun for a couple of days.

As for the color,I like it.

[Guest 50Plymouth]

how far have you gone:D

as i am subscribed to this page

i have spent the past four days feathering (sanding) my jeep smooth and plan on buying some black paint soon

more to come soon, including pictures. We've got a new baby in my household so my forum time has been a bit affected Briefly I'll update that I've advanced layers and sanding and that I tested another panel using spray can paint drained (thus propellant removed and giving correct viscosity) for panel comparison through spray gun.

Has anyone added hardener\activator\wet look to their thinned paint for rolling for a better finish and gloss?

Ryan

[greg g]

You might want to add some hardener to the last coat or two, but keep in mind it will be harder to sand and buff. The wet stuff magnifies any scratches and other surface problems. Beside why spend the money for stuff you don't really need on an economy paint job.

[Guest 50Plymouth]

Man have I been neglecting my forum time lately... Well, the paint is done! Waiting on some temporary used tires for my mismatched rims Then onto the glass pack exhaust.

For any inquiring minds I will say I did not completely stick to my original plan. I was in a time crunch so part of the car is HVLP with same paint. Another part is standard siphon feed can with the same Hunter Green gloss rustoleum. I will let people guess which portion is which. Time to dig out the digital camera.

[55 Fargo]

Hey 50, you don't expect us to wait for pics now do ya, go take some and post tonight, looking forward to the results.....Rock

[Young Ed]

We've been mulling around an idea here in the garage too. The hardware store here has a valspar equivalent of rustoleum. And they can tint it to any color in the entire valspar house paint line! I know Tim mentioned he puts hardner in his rustoleum for frames and stuff. So how about this stuff with some thinner and hardner and then spraying with the HVLP? Would I get a decent looking paint job assuming proper prep work underneath?

This paint is like $25 for a gallon so if it looks ok would be quite cheap. What difference am I missing between this stuff and the other paints that are like 25 a pint.

[Guest 50Plymouth]

Hey 50, you don't expect us to wait for pics now do ya, go take some and post tonight, looking forward to the results.....Rock

I'll grab some pictures tomorrow after the sun returns as it was demoted from garage after drying.

dodgepu: I say go for it. Of course do a lot of unrushed testing first to make sure you will like the results. I had purchased hardener and considered using it but I did not end up using it. One thing I notice (albeit from very limited experience only painted one other car with standard auto urethane and conv. sprayer) is that the rustoleum just doesn't apply as nicely as the more expensive stuff spray-wise, but its cheap. On a side note, my church has a school bus they couldn't legally leave yellow, so it was painted with white rustoleum standard spraying. It has held up through somewhere between 6-10 seasons including IA winter driving so far quite well (no hardener). I certainly can't speak for its durability beyond that and the white wasn't super glossy to begin with I think. If you went with what your talking with the hardener and even did a clear coat I think you'd really be golden but I would apply the rustoleum on top of a good primer rather than skipping steps like I did with my attempts. Also, the quality of your spray gun plays a big role, I suspect fancier guns can do more with cheap material than cheap gun with cheap material. I had problems with orange peel from both HVLP and conv. and tried fiddling with settings, ratio's ect., quite a bit. But with expensive standard auto paints and the same siphon gun (no settings changed) I did not have problems with orange peel from previous projs., that tells me this paint is more finicky and a bigger challenge concerning spraying.

I obviously did not stick it through on the whole car with rolling, sanding. I have since seen several threads of guys who did not sand every other coat but instead did much sanding at the end with nice results.

[Young Ed]

I did rustoleum for my back bumper over their rusty metal primer. Also did my front frame and inner fenders on my 48. These were both with no hardner but came out pretty good. The HVLP gun I can use is a harbor freight cheapie thats supposely a china made clone of a $600 devilbis gun.

Not really close enough to see details but heres pics of the parts we painted black.

Lord knows there are plenty of spare body parts and whole cars around here to practice on!

[55 Fargo]

Ed, you would reduce it with autobody enamel reducer,say medium speed, if under 75 degrees, or slow if over 75. add Evercoat universal hardner and gloss agent, spray with HVLP. Color sand and/or compound. This should look killer, add some flames for good measure. You would lay on 2-3 coats wet on wet, I think. Maybe Normscoupe can post the pic of the 41 Stude that was painted this way with Rustoleum Red paint, I think that car was painted outside, in Las Vegas somehwere, it looked awesome in the pics.

Heck what is there to lose, if you don't like the paint job,sand it out, prime with automotive primer/surfacer, such as PPG K36, and paint with either BC/CC or Single stage enamel. But I think you might like the results of the Rustoleum paintjob. I know I may end up doing just this, once all of my mechanical items are all done, and the bodywork is completed......Fred

[Guest 50Plymouth]

Rustoleum Plymouth, hunter green.

I really think it is glossier in person, also much darker green than it appears in photo's. A fair covering of dirt and water spots from sitting outdoors for days doesn't help but as shown this is no perfect body. Way back when I got it my thought was getting it looking better for now then I can work panel by panel perhaps slowly. So even if rustoleum doesn't really last..

First the traditional "before" picture.

So.. since I deviated from the original intent of complete rolling I will share what was what. Top, roof, pillars of car was painted with conv. siphon can @ 90psi. Decklid was rolled (runs) sides and hood finished with hvlp (and a struggling compressor). The car has not yet been wet sanded or polished at all.

Weird looking reflection on this last one. Makes it look way more super-crazy dented.

For all the pictures prior and additional together go here:

http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s91/Gidaeon/50%20Plymouth%20paint%20work/

I should've put the John Deere next to it so you can see the green is really darker than you think.

Ryan

[55 Fargo]

Hey 50, not bad,actually turned out good, can't tell from the pics what was used where just think of how this could have turned out with good body work, wetsanding and polishing with a buffer and Meguires.All in all how could anyone ask for more, on a $50 paint job, this will probably stand up for quite a while, now get some decent tire and rims and go for a ride..............Fred

[Guest 50Plymouth]

Yeah, time to start thinking about breaking out the body hammers and dollies in the future. In the mean time its a little easier on the eyes Maybe this will even be an opportunity to try my hand at light welding. Hope to have tires this week, found a shop that was willing to work with the two front splits, but hoping they can rummage me something newer I think the mismatched rims were 16" I had at least 1 tire rubbing all the time in test drive. I can't order fancy rims and nice WWW as nice & beautiful as that would be. Just ordered my smithy muffler (26") and peep mirror. Shhh.. don't tell anybody but I had test painted a can of bright orange put through hvlp to satisfy my curiosity. Without the proper bodywork it was insanely more laughable than the deeper green .I think putting such loud colors on something rather rough would be an abomination.

I think I used 4 rustoleum gloss hunter green quarts. I think the satin colors wouldn't look bad and would hide more (light) defects. no hiding dents the size of your arm like this old girl.