Glove box bumper and plug

[RobertKB]

Thanks for the good idea. I did not see another thread on it, or missed it, so this one is helpful.

[Don Coatney]

Thanks for the good idea. I did not see another thread on it, or missed it, so this one is helpful.

http://p15-d24.com/topic/35794-glove-box-bumper-and-plug/

[RobertKB]

Thanks.

[47heaven]

ATTENTION MODERATOR: PLEASE DO NOT COMBINE THIS THREAD WITH MY PREVIOUS THREAD ON GLOVE COMPARTMENT BUMPERS, REGARDLESS OF WHO FEELS IT SHOULD BE DIRECTED THERE. I'D PREFER THIS THREAD SEPERATE FROM THAT ONE. THANK YOU.

Okay, so I recently just installed some glove box bumpers that I made, and now I have an issue with the glove box not closing completely. In fact, the only way I'm able to open it is by pushing the lock button in all the way and pulling the door out at the same. Another member had mentioned that his glove box door doesn't have a tension spring on it, but he can just hit the button fast and the door will pop open. I tried the same thing, but the door would just bounce back a tiny bit and get hung up on the adjustment bolt. I tried adjusting the bolt at different settings, but it didn't work. It still got stuck. I thought with the new rubber bumpers I installed that I installed would give the door enough tension so that it would pop open enough to pull it down the rest of the way. The door shuts, but there is still some loose gap between the door and where it's supposed to hit the bumpers.

This is how I have to open it.

Door in closed position when pressure is forced

How door looks when shut without pressure. Notice loose gap.

I then checked to see if maybe the catch on the latch was the problem because it looks as if it's not retracting all the way down when the button is completely pushed in.

As far as the adjustment bolt, I've screwed it in as far as it and the nut will allow. If eel like the adjustment bolt nee to go in father so that when the lock latches, it will allow for moor of a pull on the door in the closed position, allowing more tension against the bumpers.

Any suggestions or ideas?

[47heaven]

For those of us that want to take the easier route my local hardware store (and I suspect many others) has a bin full of automotive bumpers and I found ones that looked just like the originals.

Things are different here in California, Ed. Mom and pop hardware stores virtually don't exist anymore, especially in Southern California. You basically have Lowe's or Home Depot to deal with or you have to drive a long way to a specialty store.

[Dave72dt]

Put the lock nut on the other side of the bracket.

[_shel_ny]

D-24 catch. 

 

Never noticed before, but the screw is off center from the head.

[47heaven]

Put the lock nut on the other side of the bracket.

Hey Dave, that did the trick! Wow...now I feel stupid. I was just following the way Zen Master Don Coatney had his adjustment bolt and nut shown. Man, the things you learn how to do, and not do on here are amazing!

Thanks, again, man!

Darin

[BobT-47P15]

Now.....in order for your g- box door to close more flush with the dash, do you need to make your bumpers a bit

smaller??   

 

Since you don't have an original spring......you might try to invent one.   Any shape and size that will exert a small amount

of pressure to push the door open.  How about a spring from the middle of a wooden clothespin?   Or a small piece of

springy metal bent into a sort of L shape,    Just tossing out some thoughts.   

 

Have you used something like graphite or very lightweight 3-in-1 oil to lube the lock/pushbutton unit? 

Edited April 24, 2014 by BobT-47P15

[Plymouthy Adams]

If you were to notice that the picture zen master Coatney has, his shows this very "l shaped" bracket being slid reward plenty far enough to compensate for the jamb nut...yours however was position way forward and thus the jamb nut therefore was in a position to cause interference..

[BobT-47P15]