Decide to add a filter afterall.

[54Illinois]

I opted to add a oil filter to the parts car 54 savoy.  Mainly the thing drives real good, and is a real thrill to get jeers from folks amazed it is still on the road.  So I would like to prolong its life.

 

I had the canister and lines from another parts car scrapped long ago, so I used those.  I added a NAPA 1070 gold filter for 6.99+tax, and a quart of Shell 10w-40 conventional. 

 

The added oil was real cool so it was exciting to feel the canister warm up (the car oil was hot) when testing the sytem for leaks and function.  It warmed up quick!

 

I also cleaned the oil breather cap with gas, and notice a considerable amount of fumes excaping, more than before!  It must have been reall clogged.

 

 

 

 

[Lumpy]

Not trying to start an Oil War, but I think your engine would be more happy with at least a 20wt oil, and more happy still with a straight 30wt. I think, or believe, that you will be seeing more blow by and fumes with such a light oil.

 

I run 20-50wt synthetic oil in Lumpy, and that's a pretty much freshly broken in engine. If I didn't believe in synthetic, I would run straight 30wt. (I haven't kept track of the mileage) I'd not use 10wt oil in anything but a low mileage, new car. I don't think 10wt oil will prolong it's life very well....it does not have much shear strength. You might want to put a pint of STP in the poor old girl.

 

Just my opinion, feel free to ignore, or tell me I'm nutz...!!

 

Having thrown all that negativity at you....I'm glad you are keep her on the road, and having fun with her. !!

 

ken.

[54Illinois]

I do add a pint of STP blue bottle.

 

I thought the 10w meant 10 winter?  And 40 meant summer weight?

Edited April 7, 2014 by 54Illinois

[desoto1939]

I have had a rebuild engine that was done in 1985. After having it rebuilt I have been using 10w40 oil in the car and have had the car for almost 30 years. The 10 is the cold blend and the 40 is the hot blend.

 

 

Rich Hartung

[Lumpy]

The "10" refers to the weight, and the "40", refers to, that it is supposed to flow like a 40 weight oil when hot, because of the addition of additives that do that. But keep in mind that the additives that do that, increase the viscosity when hot, break down pretty quick. If you are adding STP that is good. I feel better now.

 

A fresh engine will do okay with 10 weight oil, and you can get away with thin oil, but the thinner the oil, the less shear strength you have. Shear strength is what keeps metal from meeting metal. Synthetic oils have greater shear strength, and that's where you can get away better with running thin oil. Thin oil works okay in engines that are built to very close tolerances...not so good in 1940's technology engines.

 

But we all have our preferences, and what makes sense to me, might not make sense to another, and visa versa. !!

 

In the past, I have bought many used cars that smoked and had quite a bit of blow by, drained out the 10w40, replaced with Castrol 30wt, and the smoking and blow by magically disappeared. !!! Your results may vary!! 

 

ken

[T120]

..Can't really comment on your experience,Ken -  but from what  I understand,I agree that the "W" in multigrade oils is supposed to mean "winter"...   

Edited April 7, 2014 by Ralph D25cpe

[TodFitch]

..Can't really comment on your experience,Ken -  but from what  I understand,I agree that the "W" in multigrade oils is supposed to mean "winter"...   

I think "W" did stand for winter originally. Basically the number before the "W" is the viscosity measured at low temperature(s). Basically they are looking for a particular viscosity and check for what temperature it is achieved at with the colder the temperature the lower the "W" number. The number after the "W" is based on the viscosity measured at around the boiling point of water which was the assumed operating temperature of an engine way back when.

 

So your SAE 30 oil (no W rating) will be thicker than a 10W or 20W oil on start up and not get to all the dry surfaces as fast which will accelerate wear. And it will be thinner at operating temperatures than a 10W40 so it will not provide as much protection there either.

 

It is my understanding that the multi-weight conventional oils start with some base stock and then add viscosity index modifiers to achieve the range they want. The bigger the range the more the additive. But the additive is not really a lubricant so there can be diminishing returns if enough is put in the oil to make the range is very large, say 5W50. And the additives break down with time so the 10W30 you put in your car at the oil change might only be a 10W20 by the time you change it out.

 

But I am not an oil expert, so the above could be totally off. Just how I understand it.

 

I don't live in freezing temperatures so I don't need a 10W. I use a 20W40 or 20W50 in my old Plymouth depending on what the store has and my mood on the day I buy it.

[DJ194950]

Back in the mid 60's when working in a gas station in central ca. We had one customer who always insisted on using straight weight oils and changed weights with the seasons instead of multi weight.
Found out he was a chemical engineer for shell and he felt that all the weight changing additives just reduced the amount on straight oil that was in the qt. of oil for lubrication.

So everybody has their opinions!  

Doug