52b3b Posted February 27, 2014 Report Posted February 27, 2014 Hello together, i need some information. Last year i have install new windshields and gums. But the gums are leaking in the corners. Now i have everything removed again and the body to the window around repainted. Now i will install it again. The inner plate frame has small rubber blocks. I can renew them. In the photo to see. Now the question: How many do I need to make and where come they out exactly. Greetings from germany alaaf und helau Klaus Quote
ggdad1951 Posted February 27, 2014 Report Posted February 27, 2014 I think there are 2 to 3 on the top and bottom of each side of the inner plate frame (bezel?) Quote
52b3b Posted February 27, 2014 Author Report Posted February 27, 2014 Hi ggdad, there were 2 of them in one frame at the bottom side. OK, i will try 2 at each frame, top and bottom. You say you go back at monday. From where? Düsseldorf, we have "Rosenmontag". Alaaf Klaus Quote
ggdad1951 Posted February 27, 2014 Report Posted February 27, 2014 (edited) total 4 on each half of the frame? so 8 for the total frame? I was in Dusseldorf from Feb 14-20, Drobeln 21 and Berlin the 22nd. Edited February 27, 2014 by ggdad1951 Quote
Desotodav Posted February 28, 2014 Report Posted February 28, 2014 I think there are 2 to 3 on the top and bottom of each side of the inner plate frame (bezel?) Is that what the parts shown as 'Plug 23-22-158' are in the attached picture Mark? I wondered what they were for - to stop the metal 'Moulding 23-22-145' from denting when one tightens the screws? Quote
ggdad1951 Posted February 28, 2014 Report Posted February 28, 2014 Is that what the parts shown as 'Plug 23-22-158' are in the attached picture Mark? I wondered what they were for - to stop the metal 'Moulding 23-22-145' from denting when one tightens the screws? Is that what the parts shown as 'Plug 23-22-158' are in the attached picture Mark? I wondered what they were for - to stop the metal 'Moulding 23-22-145' from denting when one tightens the screws? I'd say more of a vibration dampening/anti-rub/squeek since you don't snug those screws down TIGHT (or you crack glass, trust me I know). Quote
52b3b Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Posted February 28, 2014 Thanks, i will take 2 on each frame, like the picture shown. But on the picture are many parts i do not have . I have only the weatherstrip 23-66-235 and the moulding 23-22-145, 23-66-156, bar 23-66-29. Welt, J.nut and retainer fails. Be in hurry later more. Greetings Klaus Quote
ggdad1951 Posted February 28, 2014 Report Posted February 28, 2014 Thanks, i will take 2 on each frame, like the picture shown. But on the picture are many parts i do not have . I have only the weatherstrip 23-66-235 and the moulding 23-22-145, 23-66-156, bar 23-66-29. Welt, J.nut and retainer fails. Be in hurry later more. Greetings Klaus Klaus, I would not be concerned over the welting listed. I didn't have any or put any back in. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 28, 2014 Report Posted February 28, 2014 Desotodav, on 28 Feb 2014 - 12:13 AM, said:Is that what the parts shown as 'Plug 23-22-158' are in the attached picture Mark? I wondered what they were for - to stop the metal 'Moulding 23-22-145' from denting when one tightens the screws? the plugs are just foam rubber cushions..they are placed on either side of the garnish left and right of the defroster vents that is built into the garnish so to direct air onto the windshield Quote
Desotodav Posted February 28, 2014 Report Posted February 28, 2014 the plugs are just foam rubber cushions..they are placed on either side of the garnish left and right of the defroster vents that is built into the garnish so to direct air onto the windshield That might explain why I haven't seen them on any of my trucks as we didn't seem to have the defroster vents here in Oz. Quote
52b3b Posted March 1, 2014 Author Report Posted March 1, 2014 the plugs are just foam rubber cushions..they are placed on either side of the garnish left and right of the defroster vents that is built into the garnish so to direct air onto the windshield Thank you, i will make it so. I have just install the Glass. Now my brain is overfload with resultions and i need some dispersal. Think the glasses are a little bit to small. Rubber little bit to short. But it is so. I have to center the glassse as well. Irrefutable it will be usefull to take sealant. (we have which are not cures, no glue or silicone) JBneal showed a picture where the inner welt is visible, i will check out what to do. So Thank you and all the others Klaus Make straight on is still light Quote
BobB Posted March 18, 2014 Report Posted March 18, 2014 According to the parts book the welt is needed only for the B1 and B2 models. Could that be why some report a gap if no welt is used and others found it unnecessary? I'm about to have a pro replace the windshield rubber in my B3B and need to confirm that the welt isn't needed. Any thoughts? Thx Bob Quote
JBNeal Posted March 18, 2014 Report Posted March 18, 2014 the welting is a trim item...ya need it as much as ya need a headliner or firewall pad or a floor mat. The truck will operate without it, the welting is not needed to keep the windshield from leaking. If ya want your window frame to have a professional look with no odd looking gaps between it & the cab, then check into getting some installed Quote
HanksB3B Posted March 19, 2014 Report Posted March 19, 2014 It's was really very simple to replace the welting on my B3B. Regular fender welt that Gary Roberts sells just needs to be trimmed so that the tail is about 1/2" (do your own test fit on a short length. It is not designed to stop leaks but leaves the inside finish looking like it should. An easy job well worth the effort. Hank Quote
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