"Losthopes Ol' Lady's 1949 ply Build"

[Darbone85737]

I think I also bought those things. Horrible.  The floor panels they sell are even worse 

[falconvan]

Awesome work! I did those same brake and suspension mods on a few of my old Mopars and they worked great. Even printed out the same diagram to make the brackets. That's what hot rodding is about; use what you got and build what you need.

Went through the same crap with the rockers although I got them from Rock Auto. One fit pretty good, one was a huge pain to get it to fit.

Edited May 11, 2014 by falconvan

[Losthope]

I did that job on my own 49. Those rockers look like JC Whitney rockers. If I remember correctly, I used them on one side of my car but had to re-shape them so they were right. That's a job I don't want to do again. 

 

 

I think I also bought those things. Horrible.  The floor panels they sell are even worse 

 

 

Awesome work! I did those same brake and suspension mods on a few of my old Mopars and they worked great. Even printed out the same diagram to make the brackets. That's what hot rodding is about; use what you got and build what you need.

Went through the same crap with the rockers although I got them from Rock Auto. One fit pretty good, one was a huge pain to get it to fit.

 

 

ya the rocker panels are giant turds i would suggest buying them to any one to replace maybe to use as patch panels...@ falconvan thats my point of view also !

[deathbound]

What is the ebay sellers ID......I'm watching a '37-'39 Plymouth Coupe roll pan kit & don't want to end buying something that will need a lot of work after spending just shy of $300 with shipping?

[Losthope]

Sellers name is classic parts "classicparts4u" , what i didnt do that i usually do  was look at the sellers feedback reviews which i should of did before i bought , seller has some bad feedback of poor/bad fitting products of floor pans, rockers, wheel archs, etc from  different model and makes of classic cars.....even if its not the same seller id suggest checking feedback on seller before you buy. if your looking at the roll pan kit from "Hotrodderplymouth"  his feedback is %100 in the past 12 months and looks like at the moment he only sells 36-39 parts and reviews say great quality parts specifically has great reviews on the 37-39 plymouth roll pan kit also! 

 

p.s  what could go wrong from buying from a ebay seller named "Hotrodderplymouth" HAHAHA

Edited May 19, 2014 by Losthope

[knuckleharley]

 

 

some of my time was taken up lately from getting the drivetrain from a wrecked  62 galaxie , for the 1926 dodge project , engine,trans,driveline ,and  9" rearend...Payment for stripping all the usable/sellable parts and cutting the galaxie up ...

 

 

 

I LOVE Y-block Ford engines! Nothing sounds nastier with glasspacks than a hot Y-Block.

 

Back in the 50's they were beating SBC's like rented mules.

 

I have a 312 with the factory dual quad intake and T-Bird valve covers to put in my 34 Ford pu if I ever live long enough to get to it.

 

Looks like that one already has the Mummert single quad intake,finned aluminum valve covers,and the factory dual exhaust manifolds. If you got that stuff for free,that was a major score.

Edited May 20, 2014 by knuckleharley

[Losthope]

I LOVE Y-block Ford engines! Nothing sounds nastier with glasspacks than a hot Y-Block.

 

Back in the 50's they were beating SBC's like rented mules.

 

I have a 312 with the factory dual quad intake and T-Bird valve covers to put in my 34 Ford pu if I ever live long enough to get to it.

 

Looks like that one already has the Mummert single quad intake,finned aluminum valve covers,and the factory dual exhaust manifolds. If you got that stuff for free,that was a major score.

Awesome! dual quad! thatll look great in the 34 ford and be bad- a$$! I always wanted to build a t-bucket powered by a y-block instead of the typical SBC everyone uses... I gravitate to anything at car shows with a y-block LOL..... Im a big y-block fan, the 1954 ford I have was my first car and the 239 y that came in it from factory is what engine i learned to work on...it ended up taking a crap and i replaced it with a low mile rebuilt  272 y, over the years ive found parts at the swap meets for it like the dual exhaust , quad intake, factory chromed vavle covers( not the new cheap repops) ,carter afb500 cfm carb,the later model better distributor  i also have it running out some glasspacks and 1 1/2" pipe really got a rap with the y-block rumble ...nothing fancey looking yet on it and i really need to pull it back out and repaint it something besides the red (how i got it)but i dont ever leave the hood open  anyways:

 

And the y-block for the 26 dodge project was basically free besides the labor to take the galaxie apart, it was  more of a gift from my cousin and a couple friends because they know how much of a y-block fan i am and it would go to a good home , it also has a finned valley pan and alot of little bits have been chromed i believe its a 1954 mercury 256 y-block its one of the odd ball y-blocks  and its not the desirable 312  but itll do the job ...it was definitely a major score for how much the uprgraded parts cost to buy nowadays ..

 

Edited May 20, 2014 by Losthope

[GlennCraven]

This is one of the best threads ever. 

[knuckleharley]

Awesome! dual quad! thatll look great in the 34 ford and be bad- a$$! I always wanted to build a t-bucket powered by a y-block instead of the typical SBC everyone uses... I gravitate to anything at car shows with a y-block LOL...

 

I have a spare dual quad factory intake I might be talked into selling if you are interested. No carbs,though.

 

I have sold a 292 to a guy in Berlin,Germany to replace the 327 Chevy that was in the 39 Ford coupe when he bought it. Even Germans are tired of seeing SBC in everything. I also sold him the 3x2 intake and carbs he has on it. He had it totally rebuild with big valve 312 heads and hot Mummert cam,and he loves it. He even ran it at their national nostalgic drags shortly after putting it together in 2010.

 

Here is a video of the German hot rod nationals held at a former east German Soviet airbase. To tell the truth,I see more cars there that I like than I do at most US rod runs. Lots of stock 6's make for slow runs,and they don't seem to have any classes,either. They just line up and run against whoever is parked next to them. The gray 39 coupe is seen early on his very first run,and he doesn't even start to get on it until about half-way through second gear. It's also seen at the end of the video,and he's getting on it in first and second there.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcmLMKJLTsg&index=88&list=FLLb6P6AQcE3lZv6RPWLY2Ww

 

I also sold a 272 to a guy restoring a 55 Victoria in Nova Scotia a couple of years ago.

[fstfish66]

I have a spare dual quad factory intake I might be talked into selling if you are interested. No carbs,though.

 

I have sold a 292 to a guy in Berlin,Germany to replace the 327 Chevy that was in the 39 Ford coupe when he bought it. Even Germans are tired of seeing SBC in everything. I also sold him the 3x2 intake and carbs he has on it. He had it totally rebuild with big valve 312 heads and hot Mummert cam,and he loves it. He even ran it at their national nostalgic drags shortly after putting it together in 2010.

 

Here is a video of the German hot rod nationals held at a former east German Soviet airbase. To tell the truth,I see more cars there that I like than I do at most US rod runs. Lots of stock 6's make for slow runs,and they don't seem to have any classes,either. They just line up and run against whoever is parked next to them. The gray 39 coupe is seen early on his very first run,and he doesn't even start to get on it until about half-way through second gear. It's also seen at the end of the video,and he's getting on it in first and second there.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcmLMKJLTsg&index=88&list=FLLb6P6AQcE3lZv6RPWLY2Ww

 

I also sold a 272 to a guy restoring a 55 Victoria in Nova Scotia a couple of years ago.

kool  video

[62rebelP23]

i used a set of those rocker repair panels on my '52 Cambridge... used up all my "happy words" and made up some new ones. i made a small ball pein hammer to work them into the correct profile when i realized how they were INTENDED to be used.. exhaust pipe cut in half lengthwise would have made a better patch....

 

man what i wouldn't give to find a y-block fit to rebuild around here.

[Losthope]

Been awhile since ive posted , work has taken a lot of my time up. Its also been in the triple digits here the past couple weeks so after working all day in the heat its been hard to head to the non cooled shop afterwards and work on the Plymouth when the a/c at home is so inviting , but I have got some things done....

 

I finally got the oil lines hooked up and a filter cartridge and some fresh oil in the motor:
 

 

went to the pick-n-pull yard and found a decent delco-remy alternator , and pulled a master cylinder off a ford explorer to go with the ford explorer disc rearend and disc setup up front, after a little cleaning:
 

 

After looking closely at the motor when I went to install the rebuilt external water bypass water pump I got from my pops , I noticed the head didn't have the internal water bypass passage, the block did, the water pump that was on it was a external pump, and thermostat housing was a internal type....I figured when the motor had been rebuilt probably used parts from 2 motors to make the rebuild and never had a water bypass system hooked back up due to a jumble of differences in parts so I found a used external water bypass thermostat housing on eBay and installed that and a new 160* thermostat :


  

I started to make a alternator bracket using the old generator bracket:
 

 

 

ordered a service manual off ebay:

 

[Losthope]

then I went to my pops house and found a "skinny belt " style water pump pulley in the parts shed to start switching the pulley system over from the fatter style belt pulley system it had , but then I went down to the local electrical service shop  here in town and a uncombed wiry white haired gentleman stepped behind the counter as I told him my belt scenario and what I was trying to do , he was very informative and told me they adapt delco remys to old tractors and trucks, etc ....all the time and handed me a pulley made for exactly what I was trying to do (still need to get a lock washer for pulley) and picked up a new gates bus & truck series belt:

 

 

then I got my hands on another carter ball & ball carb:

 

 

then I turned the ol' ladys kitchen table in to my carb rebuild bench:

 

 

and that basically brings us up to date:

 

 

 

still need to button stuff up on the motor going to start making my own carb linkage , trying to source out some aluminum rivet plugs for the carbs since the carb kits didn't have all the plugs for clean out passages , new brass washers and correct nuts for exhaust manifold since it had a few different types of brass and steel washers ,  then its onto working on the front clip...

Edited July 6, 2014 by Losthope

[Losthope]

Couple other do-dads I got off ebay "fix your Plymouth" book, dash compass, door handle guards, and since this is my first attempt at a dual carb setup I was talking with "Plymouth adams " in the chat here on the forum I asked what type of carb synch he thought I should use and he suggested this little guy , thanks Plymouth Adams for letting me bug you and pick your brain!:
 

 

and I picked up a un-known visor from a friend that will be a plan B if I don't get my hands on this fulton visor im waiting for a reply on locally :
 

 

Edited July 6, 2014 by Losthope

[pflaming]

I just revisited this thread and made special note in my "things to remember" page for my suburban build. You are a craftsman and it is educational to read. Thank you for posting.

[deathbound]

Bench grinder on the kitchen table......you've got ball$!!!!

[Losthope]

Bench grinder on the kitchen table......you've got ball$!!!!

 

HaHAha! She came home from work and I had it running full bore using the wire wheel cleaning up parts that the chem-dip cleaner didn't remove, She walked in the door paused for a minute looked at me while I smiled back and shook her head and went to get out of her work cloths she came back in the room and I said " What? Its your carburetors im cleaning for your car" !  She said " I love you" and walked off to go do something..Hehehe.......  Shes a keeper for sure ,one  time I did dishes I had car parts and hubcaps drying in the dish rack with her dishs ,She finally saw them in there shook her head and said "Whats this? did you wash them with the dishs?" ...I just smiled.... She puts up with all my car shenanigans and our life revolves around our cars, parts, and shows..... greasey transmissions in the back seat of her car, she orders and runs around picks parts up for me when im at work before the shops close.....one of the reasons im building her this 49 Plymouth because she puts up and forfeits a lot for my car addiction felt I needed to give her something back

[fstfish66]

Been awhile since ive posted , work has taken a lot of my time up. Its also been in the triple digits here the past couple weeks so after working all day in the heat its been hard to head to the non cooled shop afterwards and work on the Plymouth when the a/c at home is so inviting , but I have got some things done....

 

I finally got the oil lines hooked up and a filter cartridge and some fresh oil in the motor:

 

 

went to the pick-n-pull yard and found a decent delco-remy alternator , and pulled a master cylinder off a ford explorer to go with the ford explorer disc rearend and disc setup up front, after a little cleaning:

 

 

After looking closely at the motor when I went to install the rebuilt external water bypass water pump I got from my pops , I noticed the head didn't have the internal water bypass passage, the block did, the water pump that was on it was a external pump, and thermostat housing was a internal type....I figured when the motor had been rebuilt probably used parts from 2 motors to make the rebuild and never had a water bypass system hooked back up due to a jumble of differences in parts so I found a used external water bypass thermostat housing on eBay and installed that and a new 160* thermostat :

  

I started to make a alternator bracket using the old generator bracket:

 

 

 

ordered a service manual off ebay:

 

just my  2  cents on your master cyl,,,u see that  electrical  plug on the front ???  do your self a favor  plug it do not use it,,lots of  rear wheel  drive ford products went up in smoke  because of that  crazy  idea,,,

[Losthope]

ya I was looking at that when it was still on the ford explorer, Im pretty sure its the "cruise control deactivation switch"  since theres a brake light switch on the pedal assembly already on ford explorers and rangers,  which I wont be running anyways thanks for the tip ill defiantly remove it and put in a plug in there .

Edited July 7, 2014 by Losthope

[40plyrod]

Nice work. I thought I hadn't seen an update in a while, good to see you're still at it.

[Adam H P15 D30]

Yup, that's the c.c. deactivation switch. Put 3 of them on my excursion now cause of leaking. 1 under recall, 2 by me. + 1 on plugging it.

[fstfish66]

its not the switch that goes bad,,on the  ford  products that  switch is always  hot  even when the car is off,,,when  u  push the brake pedal the  brake fluid  is pressed up against a super  thin  film/barrier  that  deactivates the  cruise control,,unlike every  other car on the planet where that  brake lite switch  deactivates the  cruise,,,  since that switch is always hot,,,that super thin  film  wears out  then the  switch  thats hot  is  warming the brake fluid,,,next thing  you knwo the car,,your garage  what ever is burnt to the ground,,,  16 million  rear wheel drive  vehicles with this problem,,,as far as i  know the  goverment nor  ford made an  official  recall,,,,

[Losthope]

thanks for the info learn something new everyday. My friends and I call Explorers "Exploders" that brings a whole new meaning to the nickname..

[Adam H P15 D30]

its not the switch that goes bad,,on the  ford  products that  switch is always  hot  even when the car is off,,,when  u  push the brake pedal the  brake fluid  is pressed up against a super  thin  film/barrier  that  deactivates the  cruise control,,unlike every  other car on the planet where that  brake lite switch  deactivates the  cruise,,,  since that switch is always hot,,,that super thin  film  wears out  then the  switch  thats hot  is  warming the brake fluid,,,next thing  you knwo the car,,your garage  what ever is burnt to the ground,,,  16 million  rear wheel drive  vehicles with this problem,,,as far as i  know the  goverment nor  ford made an  official  recall,,,,

No, not exactly right. The switch leaks internally, shorting the always hot circuit to ground, melting the harness and burning. Electrical / brake fluid fire. Recall was to put a fused pigtail between the connector (harness) and switch. Then to replace the switch only if it is leaking. Trust me I worked for Ford for 20 years.

[fstfish66]

No, not exactly right. The switch leaks internally, shorting the always hot circuit to ground, melting the harness and burning. Electrical / brake fluid fire. Recall was to put a fused pigtail between the connector (harness) and switch. Then to replace the switch only if it is leaking. Trust me I worked for Ford for 20 years.

last thing  i read the very  thin  film breaks,,,the switch is hot,,,which  heats up the brake fluid,,,google it,,you will see a video  on it, there may  be othere problems with the switch as well,,,as you stated,,,they will never tell the public the entire story,,,makes you wanna consider a jap car dont it ??  lol