3-Speed Transmission Rebuild

[Andydodge]

Kai, because the trans extension housing and handbrake project further back than the removeable floor pan and there is the input shaft at the front of the gearbox it would be a pain in the bum to pull the trans back then try and lift it through the top.........once you unbolt the driveshaft, disconnect the speedo cable, handbrake cable and undo the gearbox/bellhouseing bolts the gearbox should just pull back and be able to be removed from under the car, its not overly heavy BUT easier to take out from below than above.......you don't need ramps, just a jack and a pair of jackstands............if you don't have these then thru the top is possible but its doing it the hard way.........regards,andyd

[Kai-by-Vecona]

Hello Andy,

 

maybe you're right. I'm only afraid that the bellhousing is too high and I'm not able to get it under the car. Have funny scenes in my head how to solve that problem, but I try it your way. If you don't hear from me any more I'm under the transmission trying to find a way to get us both out of there...

 

Kai

[1941Rick]

Don't overlook the pilot bearing. If it is dragging it will turn the input shaft no matter how you adjust the clutch.

[Kai-by-Vecona]

Good point. I think clutch parts and the bearing are not a problem to get...

[Don Coatney]

I still question if you really have a problem. If your car is at a dead stop with the engine running, clutch pedal to the floor, transmission in second gear, you should be able to quickly shift into first gear with no grinding as the transmission input shaft will not be moving.

[Kai-by-Vecona]

Hello Don,

 

I tried this several times and did it the way you describe and it is grinding in first and reverse. I adjusted the free play and nothing happend. It's still the same. I can't explain it to me just that something must drag between clutch and plate. I think I only could solve that problem, having a look at the clutch.

[martybose]

My favorite clutch story was a 289HP Mustang with an aftermarket Long-style 3 finger clutch.  I was sitting at an intersection with the car in gear and the clutch fully disengaged when there was a noise and suddenly the car took off across the intersection with my clutch foot still flat on the floor.  It turned out that one clutch finger fractured, allowing part of the clutch to engage enough to move the car rather rapidly. It made sense once I figured it out, but was a real surprise when it happened.

 

Marty

[1941Rick]

dont forget the pilot bearing....can cause the same thing

[Kai-by-Vecona]

Hello Marty,

 

wow! You had lots of luck. I could imagine what surprise this was.

 

When I pull out the transmission I will be wiser. If I do so, I will change all the clutch parts. As far as I know there was never done anything to it, so it's good possible that it's worn or maybe parts from the clutch are loose and make contact.

[_shel_ny]

Hello Andy,

 

maybe you're right. I'm only afraid that the bellhousing is too high and I'm not able to get it under the car.

 

Kai

The bell housing should not need to be removed.

Edited November 6, 2013 by shel_ny

[Kai-by-Vecona]

Hello Everybody,

 

long time past by, but I didn't find the time to solve this problem earlier. But now, my own christmas present was a day under the car and pulling out the transmission clutch and Fluid drive.

 

I enclosed some pictures because I think the problem isn't the clutch. All surfaces look pretty new and also the thickness of the lining is nearly new. In my opinion I could use it as it is.

 

 

Also the fluid drive looks pretty dry, no leaks anywhere so I won't touch it because insalling new bushings ans seals sounds a little bit uneasy when you do not have the right tools.

 

The only thing I could imagine what causes the grinding is like 1941Rick said the bushings. Both bushings and the transmission drive pinion look good, but there's a kind of grease on the surface of the pinion, that feels a little bit sticky just a little bit like resin from trees.

 

Would you say it might be enough to clean the surfaces and grease them with graphite grease or something like that? As already said I won't uninstall the fluid drive because I'm afraid to make it worse because I don't have the special tool which are needed.

 

Should I change the fluid drive fluid? I think that has never been done. If so, I didn't find anything about the oil. Under normal circumstances I would take ATF Fluid but this is not an automatic, so does anybody know what specifications are needed?

 

Thank you in advance

 

Kai

[48ply1stcar]

I don't know anything about fluid drive transmissions but, on picture #9 it looks like your missing a significated part.

[Kai-by-Vecona]

Hi,

 

if you mean the release bearing and sleeve it's there and in good condition. I didn't take a picture of it.

 

Kai

[DCurrent]

To me, the surface of the flywheel appears as if the clutch disc has made an impression on it. Leads me to believe the clutch was not disengaging. Also the flywheel has a bit of grinding showing on it from something getting too close. maybe the springs from the clutch disc.

[Kai-by-Vecona]

Hi there,

 

that just looks like that. I also wondered why the structure of the clutch disc is "printed" on the flywheel but I have no idea. If the clutch won't have seperate I think it would have not been possible to shift the other gears either.

 

There's no grinding on the flywheel. This is just the part, that is not coverd by the disc when touching the surface. All surfaces are very even, and no signs of burning or anything else. My only idea is the thing with the bushings.

[_shel_ny]

Could be the gooey stuff on the input pinion. My understanding is that there should be NO grease on the pilot bushing in the fluid coupling. A light application of oil has been recommended. Could be that goo is keeping the pinion turning to cause your grinding for the gears with no synchros.

[Dodgeb4ya]

^^^^^   I agree with shel_ny. The factory Oilite input shaft bushings  should never be greased! They are permanetly lubed with light weight oil from the maker. When I do FD jobs I lightly wipe the input shaft and bushings with 3-IN-One oil  or the equivalent. Your bushings need to be wiped clean with a good solvent to remove all traces of the blue grease. I am not sure you can even get the pores of the bushings free of that grease. 

That grease looks like trailer wheel bearing or brake caliper grease. Wrong stuff to apply to input shafts.

The other parts look good to me. Impression surface finsh looks fine to me.

Bob

[Kai-by-Vecona]

Thats good to hear that I might be right. I try to get rid of all the gooey stuff but I hope to get rid of it without disassembling the Fluid Drive. I check for the 3-in-one Oil if it's available here in Germany or an equivalent.

 

Thanks a lot

 

Kai

[Dodgeb4ya]

You don't have to disassemble the FD to remove the bushings. Use the correct bushing removal tool and slide hammer or screw type puller. That is if you need to remove them.

DO NOT take the FD coupling apart or pull the driven plate off. No need to.

Bob

[Kai-by-Vecona]

Hello Bob,

 

thanks for that advice. I hope I can fix it without changing the bushings but when I can't clean them or I'll find out that they are worn I'll try it.

Kai

[Kai-by-Vecona]

Ok... some time passed by but I didn't find the time to fix the problem earlier.

 

I didn't remove the bushings because they still looked good to me but I cleaned the bushings with solvent and also the input shaft of the transmission and installed the transmission again. It's very much better now. It's still there when the engine is idling faster e. g. when the engine is cold but at normal operating temperature it worked fine shifting in 3 or 4 first and then in first or back.

 

It did that job without a lift just put the car on jacks. Uninstalling the FD and the transmission ist one thing but to get it back is horrible. I really can't recommend that. That was really hard learning by doing ;-)