Rear Drums

[Dodgeb4ya]

A good professional 1" impact gun will pull the studs/bolts right out of the drum hub if the hub stays stuck to the tapered axle. I've never had that happen.

You do need to use 1/2" hose and 125-175lbs air pressure with a 1" for good results too.

Edited September 26, 2013 by Dodgeb4ya

[JerseyHarold]

I heated the hub with a heat gun and that helped one of my drums to pop free.

[50 coupe]

Dodgeb4ya - that may have been the issue, I bet the compressor I was using was puting out mayber 125psi max. The impact was a rental, one of those heavy-ass deals used on semi's.

Jersey - how much heat?? Did you get the hub area to a dull red or cooler?

[JerseyHarold]

Jersey - how much heat?? Did you get the hub area to a dull red or cooler?

I just heated the hub evenly with the heat gun for several minutes.  It did not turn red. When I whacked the puller again the drum popped off with a bang.

[P15-D24]

Take off the nut holding the shoe anchor nuts. Then tab the bolts in about 1/2 inch so the shoes retract. Then use the puller. 

This isn't that hard of a job. If it isn't coming off then something is binding/holding it which is usually the brake shoe.

 

You did back off all (major and minor) shoe adjusters before starting?  

[Dodgeb4ya]

Should never have to heat the axle or hub.I never would. The late 50's early 60's are the tough ones to remove especially chryslers.

[50 coupe]

Take off the nut holding the shoe anchor nuts. Then tab the bolts in about 1/2 inch so the shoes retract. Then use the puller. 

This isn't that hard of a job. If it isn't coming off then something is binding/holding it which is usually the brake shoe.

 

You did back off all (major and minor) shoe adjusters before starting?  

Oh yeah. Backed off the adjusters, removed the nuts on the achor bolts and knocked them in. Loosened the axle nut and did a few figure eights in the barn yard. the who sha-bang. At this point I am o.k. with swapping for a newer rear axle. In the long run, modern brakes, easier to replace. Probably a higher gear for highway crusining and if I decide to upgrade the engine, it will handle it.

[DJ194950]

I've had two out of 8 that i've removed the rear drums that NEEDED heat to come off. First one was just a small amount the other I tried several times over several days and ended up using a small rosebud tip on my oxy/acetly. torch to heat the entire circumference arrond the axle portion of the hub!  Not quite to cherry red but close!

At all times I had a borrowed, old but in great condition, heavy duty 3 finger puller with the  "T" type arm on the end to beat on the the Shaft. Beat the cra- out of it, beat on the shaft end itself with a 6 lb. hammer before and after the heat and it finalally came off!  

 

Was not worrried about the drum, just wanted the 3:54 geared 3rd. member. I did try to save as many parts for others in the future.

I really think the hub/drum are really ok though.

 

Oh ya, it was a 47-48 chrysler rearend that sat out exposed for a few years and had came from Wash. state. Salted roads??

 

Your Bus. cpe should have a 3:73 from the start. Great crusing ratio especially with an OD trans.

Otherwise look for a 3:54 from a 6 cyl. Chrysler mid 40's early 50's. They drop in your housing. If you find one post the year/model of the car on this forum and several on here have older interchange manuels to make sure it will drop in.  

 

It is do-able.

Persevere.

 

Good luck  

 

doug

[50 coupe]

I've had two out of 8 that i've removed the rear drums that NEEDED heat to come off. First one was just a small amount the other I tried several times over several days and ended up using a small rosebud tip on my oxy/acetly. torch to heat the entire circumference arrond the axle portion of the hub!  Not quite to cherry red but close!

At all times I had a borrowed, old but in great condition, heavy duty 3 finger puller with the  "T" type arm on the end to beat on the the Shaft. Beat the cra- out of it, beat on the shaft end itself with a 6 lb. hammer before and after the heat and it finalally came off!  

 

Was not worrried about the drum, just wanted the 3:54 geared 3rd. member. I did try to save as many parts for others in the future.

I really think the hub/drum are really ok though.

 

Oh ya, it was a 47-48 chrysler rearend that sat out exposed for a few years and had came from Wash. state. Salted roads??

 

Your Bus. cpe should have a 3:73 from the start. Great crusing ratio especially with an OD trans.

Otherwise look for a 3:54 from a 6 cyl. Chrysler mid 40's early 50's. They drop in your housing. If you find one post the year/model of the car on this forum and several on here have older interchange manuels to make sure it will drop in.  

 

It is do-able.

Persevere.

 

Good luck  

 

doug

Thanks DJ. I may have to give it another go with a little heat first, then the puller. It's the one thing I haven't tried yet.

[DJ194950]

I have some reusable spare rear drums if you do hurt them, but I doubt it.

My 50 now has all std. Id drums on it, so I doubt I'll ever use them. They would be avail. if needed but they're in CA.

 

Good luck,

 

Doug

[deathbound]

I had a similar problem with the drum wanting to turn when I beat on the dogbone. In order to stop it, I used a pry bar wedged to counteract the turning action.

 

 

[B-Watson]

The key prevents the brake drum/hub from moving around on the axle.  Without the key, when you apply the brakes the drum will lock up with the brake shoes while the axle will keep turning.  It also has a wedge shape which prevents the key from sliding around.  

 

The trick to easy removal of the drums is to take them off a little more often than once in 25-30 years.