JIPJOBXX Posted June 20, 2013 Report Posted June 20, 2013 Ok first of all I know you guys are kind of tired of my brake problem but I'm taking to a shop to be checked out. But for my own information and maybe someone else here? How can you test your M/C in the car and not hoked up. Are there any procedures and what pressure should this unit put out proper opperational preformances? Quote
Don Coatney Posted June 20, 2013 Report Posted June 20, 2013 Why a new thread for the same brake problems? I suggest you ask the brake shop for the answer to your question. Quote
captden29 Posted June 20, 2013 Report Posted June 20, 2013 daves answer to change to 3/16 lines is interesting. could work. however, the factory set up should be fine in my opinion. personally, I would buy the highest quality master cylinder I could get, that is, not Chinese, and replace the one in there even if it is new.the one in my car is NOS so it is American made.i think you need to eliminate the MC as a source of the problem and replacing it is the only way.bleedig is always an issue, but now you know that it must be done several times to eliminate that as a problem, especially if you use the power bleeder. I have 2 1954 Chryslers. one has a very high pedal, the other is much lower.both cars stop very well and pumping the pedal on either one does not change pedal height.i accept the lower pedal as it is. sometimes that can be a solution too. the end result is always good brakes. I hope you have that at least.keep in mind that when you open the system to connect or disconnect lines you let air in.just means more and more bleeding.one last thing to try is to have the car parked over a clean surface and pump the brakes heavily for a long time, and then inspect under the car for any leaks. hope you get to the conclusion of this and you and the forum will learn something new. capt den Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted June 20, 2013 Author Report Posted June 20, 2013 Don I just asked that question to see if anyone here had ever run a pressure check on these old M/C and was wondering at what pressure they work at??? Nothing to do with mine as the mechanic said mine was working just fine. Quote
TodFitch Posted June 20, 2013 Report Posted June 20, 2013 Look at your brake pedal linkages and you can figure out how much mechanical advantage you have. Multiply that by how much force a big adult could press down with one foot when in a emergency situation. That gives you the force into the master cylinder. If I recall correctly, the linkage on my '33 gives at least a 10 to 1 advantage. I figure if I was in a panic situation I could press 300 lbs with my right leg. So you are up to 3000 pounds. Now look at the surface area of the master cylinder piston. A 1 /18" diameter piston has a surface area of very close to 1 sq. inch. Divide the force by the area to get PSI. So that would be 3000 psi using my example numbers. Pick your own numbers. But when selecting components, I'd probably at least double that number just to be safe. No clue to the equivalent calculations for power assist or anti-lock braking as the forces there depend on the design of the booster, etc. which I've never much thought about or looked into. Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted June 20, 2013 Author Report Posted June 20, 2013 Thanks and I like your prospective view! Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted June 21, 2013 Report Posted June 21, 2013 (edited) If you really need to check your M/cyl pressure get your money out and buy a high pressure brake pressure checking guage ! Edited June 21, 2013 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
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