Lpdesignz Posted January 13, 2013 Author Report Posted January 13, 2013 Hey you got some talentz there Man:cool:, very interesting custom, you do the work yourself? Wish I was as creative, I generally like my old Mopars stock, but also like nice customs too... Ya I have done most of it.. The chop was hacked up when I got it and i cleaned it all up and did it right.. I bought it as a ratrod but that went right out the window and the money pit began... I have the skills and i know what it can and will look like so just a matter of time now.. I have all the parts and materials bought to finish it already, just need time.. Blah lol Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 13, 2013 Report Posted January 13, 2013 Thank you... Yes I love the flattie and 3 on the tree... Wish I could get it up over 50-55mph thou.. It would be nice to cruise on the freeways sucks driving surface streets here there crowded... I'm thinking I could just change the gears in the rear end and get the extra 10mph out of it.. Not sure what to use or where to get it thou.. My car is geared so low I never use first only second and third and even take off in third sometimes lol.. Install a later model diff say Mopar 8 1/4 with 3.23 or 3.55 gears, and cruise at 60-65 mph. 1950s Borg and Warner R10 3 speed od trans, then go 70 mph down I-15. Others have custom installed 1980s T5 trans from S10 pickups, but then you have a floor shifter, the 3 spd od trans uses your stock on the column shifter and linkage... Quote
Lpdesignz Posted January 13, 2013 Author Report Posted January 13, 2013 Install a later model diff say Mopar 8 1/4 with 3.23 or 3.55 gears, and cruise at 60-65 mph.1950s Borg and Warner R10 3 speed od trans, then go 70 mph down I-15. Others have custom installed 1980s T5 trans from S10 pickups, but then you have a floor shifter, the 3 spd od trans uses your stock on the column shifter and linkage... Ya I was looking at those Borg od's this morning they seem hard to find.. Kind of stuck with this rear end my 3 link is all welded and set up to it.. Only thing I could change is the internals in the rear end if possible...Would the 4 door have the same gears there both 51's?? Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 13, 2013 Report Posted January 13, 2013 What have you got now, 3.73s, more door would have those or worse 3.90 or 4.10s. Chrysler cars late 40s had 3.54 ,the pumpkin would bolt right into the diff housing. Other option is OD trans or convert to T5 trans. The work looks good... Quote
Lpdesignz Posted January 13, 2013 Author Report Posted January 13, 2013 What have you got now, 3.73s, more door would have those or worse 3.90 or 4.10s.Chrysler cars late 40s had 3.54 ,the pumpkin would bolt right into the diff housing. Other option is OD trans or convert to T5 trans. The work looks good... No clue guessing stock.. I haven't changed anything in it since I got it.. Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 13, 2013 Report Posted January 13, 2013 No clue guessing stock.. I haven't changed anything in it since I got it.. The gear ratio, will be stamped into the top of the pumpkins casing, it should be marked, have a look. See if you can find 46-48 Chrysler wreck, they have the 3.54 diff gears a lot of the times, if you can get them, a straight forward swap, and improved cruising speed and corresponding lower rpm,..... BTW the sheet metal on the moredoor, looks rust free, the floors good like that too? Quote
Lpdesignz Posted January 13, 2013 Author Report Posted January 13, 2013 (edited) The gear ratio, will be stamped into the top of the pumpkins casing, it should be marked, have a look.See if you can find 46-48 Chrysler wreck, they have the 3.54 diff gears a lot of the times, if you can get them, a straight forward swap, and improved cruising speed and corresponding lower rpm,..... BTW the sheet metal on the moredoor, looks rust free, the floors good like that too? Top of the diff says 3 9 f ?? On my chop top.. Have to check the 4 door tomorrow it's to dark and cold.. Like 22* right now in Vegas lol. Ya the 4 door is solid man little rust by the front marker light and inside only place is by the rear door kick plate on the passenger side like a 3" square hole.. Besides that no rust and very solid inside and out.. Both cars came from los Angeles.. Edited January 13, 2013 by Lpdesignz Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 13, 2013 Report Posted January 13, 2013 Top of the diff says 3 9 f ?? On my chop top.. Have to check the 4 door tomorrow it's to dark and cold.. Like 22* right now in Vegas lol. Ya the 4 door is solid man little rust by the front marker light and inside only place is by the rear door kick plate on the passenger side like a 3" square hole.. Besides that no rust and very solid inside and out.. Both cars came from los Angeles.. Think you have yourself 3.90s in there, at 22f you could get snow. We had a blizzard here last night, with the windchill it was down to -24, and 0 air temp, huge snow drifts, such as life in this part of canada... Quote
mackster Posted January 13, 2013 Report Posted January 13, 2013 post a picture of the engine...lots of forum members have perk up the flattie with dual carbs and dual exhaust! Quote
Lpdesignz Posted January 13, 2013 Author Report Posted January 13, 2013 Stock and very dirty haha.. Motor is my next project that's why I'm here.. Quote
Scruffy49 Posted January 13, 2013 Report Posted January 13, 2013 Jump start the 4 door and see how that engine runs. If it isn't too bad, clean it up and swap them over. If that engine is also a pile, get it done up right and swap them over. If the cars are the same year, nobody will know you swapped mills. I picked up a spare engine to redo for my truck when I was moving from Washington to Tennessee. 230 out of a 56 or 57 Savoy. $125 for a running engine, that I've never bothered to start since the #4 plug electrode very obviously smacked the piston... Complete gasket set from NAPA lists for $88 and change. If it is white smoke, odds are that the head gasket failed between a pair of cylinders. Pretty common and a relatively easy fix. Just don't be too surprised if you wring the heads off a couple cylinder head bolts... If the bolts all come out cleanly you can reuse them, then swing by the truck stop and get some chrome covers for them... very traditional flathead dress up item... Full rebuild here was quoted $1500-2500, can do it in my driveway for about a quarter of that. It's just 6 Briggs and Stratton mower engines stuck together in a line... Quote
JIPJOBXX Posted January 13, 2013 Report Posted January 13, 2013 All I stated was if the engine is needed to rebuilt for the time being try some No Smoke it worked for me and it was a cheap fix for the moment. My old Caravan was smoking like crazy and I didn't care about what happen to the engine as long as I did not feel as though I was back in LA on a smoggy day. I know using additives isn't the proper way of dealing with a ring job or valve guides that are leaking by but for a short term fix why not? These old six's are built tough and can be rebuilt with a little money. If the old No Smoke doesn't fit your bill and you want just to get rid of the excessive smoke and still do not want to put a ton of money into your old six than I could suggest you pull the engine apart and hone out the cylinders and install new rings. This will get you buy for the present time. Maybe also at that time re-lap the vlv's in place also. But if you have plenty of money just take the engine down to a rebuild shop and have some professional do the job. Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 13, 2013 Report Posted January 13, 2013 A reminder. Be careful if a screw in type fitting is used for the compression test. If the fitting extends too far into the cylinder, it can get smacked by a valve:) Not good for the valve. Good thinking Shel, this has happened to a few Guys in the past. So check the fitting depth on compression tester gauge, make sure it does not thread in to deep, or smacking valves.... Quote
Young Ed Posted January 13, 2013 Report Posted January 13, 2013 I picked up a spare engine to redo for my truck when I was moving from Washington to Tennessee. 230 out of a 56 or 57 Savoy. $125 for a running engine, that I've never bothered to start since the #4 plug electrode very obviously smacked the piston... Please explain how that happened. Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 13, 2013 Report Posted January 13, 2013 Hey Jon, was not putting down your idea, and if it worked on your engine great. I just wanted to steer Original Poster away from the "snake oils", at least until He found out why it was blowing smoke. More than likely he has bad rings or valves, even though the bottom end seems sound... All I stated was if the engine is needed to rebuilt for the time being try some No Smoke it worked for me and it was a cheap fix for the moment. My old Caravan was smoking like crazy and I didn't care about what happen to the engine as long as I did not feel as though I was back in LA on a smoggy day. I know using additives isn't the proper way of dealing with a ring job or valve guides that are leaking by but for a short term fix why not? These old six's are built tough and can be rebuilt with a little money. If the old No Smoke doesn't fit your bill and you want just to get rid of the excessive smoke and still do not want to put a ton of money into your old six than I could suggest you pull the engine apart and hone out the cylinders and install new rings. This will get you buy for the present time. Maybe also at that time re-lap the vlv's in place also. But if you have plenty of money just take the engine down to a rebuild shop and have some professional do the job. [How that happen?, did it break off and get sucked into cylinder, I have bent sparkplugs that were 2 long, but the valves are the culprit, right under the plugs.QUOTE=Scruffy49;328069]J I picked up a spare engine to redo for my truck when I was moving from Washington to Tennessee. 230 out of a 56 or 57 Savoy. $125 for a running engine, that I've never bothered to start since the #4 plug electrode very obviously smacked the piston... Full rebuild here was quoted $1500-2500, can do it in my driveway for about a quarter of that. It's just 6 Briggs and Stratton mower engines stuck together in a line... Sometimes a partial rebuild can be done with good results, many were done back in the day. Quote
Phil Martin Posted January 13, 2013 Report Posted January 13, 2013 Engine pic looks like rubber gasline could be laying on head. If it was to melt a hole in line the whole thing be gone. Also looks like bumpers on moredoor are a lot better looking could be put on chopper. Quote
Robert Horne Posted January 13, 2013 Report Posted January 13, 2013 Top of the diff says 3 9 f ?? On my chop top.. Have to check the 4 door tomorrow it's to dark and cold.. Like 22* right now in Vegas lol. Ya the 4 door is solid man little rust by the front marker light and inside only place is by the rear door kick plate on the passenger side like a 3" square hole.. Besides that no rust and very solid inside and out.. Both cars came from los Angeles.. My 38 had a 3.9 rear, and would do many RPMs at 55MPH. I installed a 5 speed TK5 Ford Ranger trans, 1987, and the 5 gear was very good with the 3.9, but 1st gear was very low. I installed a Ranger rear, 3.73, now the 1st gear is ok, and 5 gear is great also. Quote
Scruffy49 Posted January 14, 2013 Report Posted January 14, 2013 I figured the electrode and the piston made contact, I've never pulled the lid off one of my L6s. Valve, piston, doesn't matter, contact is contact, odds are something got hosed. Still common around here, lots of farm mechanics that will overhaul them for the price of parts and a gallon of cheap whiskey. Most just do an in frame unless it has severe cylinder taper. Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 14, 2013 Report Posted January 14, 2013 I figured the electrode and the piston made contact, I've never pulled the lid off one of my L6s. Valve, piston, doesn't matter, contact is contact, odds are something got hosed. Still common around here, lots of farm mechanics that will overhaul them for the price of parts and a gallon of cheap whiskey. Most just do an in frame unless it has severe cylinder taper. That whiskey wouldn't be clear Shine, we call that White lighting up here:D Quote
54Illinois Posted January 14, 2013 Report Posted January 14, 2013 What kind of radiator is that in the pic?? Aftermarket? Quote
Lpdesignz Posted January 14, 2013 Author Report Posted January 14, 2013 What kind of radiator is that in the pic?? Aftermarket? Pretty sure it's stock... And thanks everyone for the heads up about the testers etc.. Really debating trying to start the more door just to see... Wouldn't be much work to throw a carb on there and drop a battery in and just see... Tomorrow I will know more.. I was reading in the archives on here you can do the valves and rings without pulling the motor??? How do you do the valves if there in the block?? I'm guessing brass sleeves but wouldn't a machine shop need to press them in?? I'm totally new to this so sorry for the dumb questions... Quote
Lpdesignz Posted January 14, 2013 Author Report Posted January 14, 2013 Engine pic looks like rubber gasline could be laying on head. If it was to melt a hole in line the whole thing be gone. Also looks like bumpers on moredoor are a lot better looking could be put on chopper. Ya it was when I took that picture it's when I first got it.. I ran all new fuel lines and got them out of the way.. The carb would overflow when I parked because the fuel was boiling inside there lol.. It was really hard to fire it back up when it was hot also.. Cured all that thou..And I did swap the bumpers just like 3 days ago.. Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 14, 2013 Report Posted January 14, 2013 Ya it was when I took that picture it's when I first got it.. I ran all new fuel lines and got them out of the way.. The carb would overflow when I parked because the fuel was boiling inside there lol.. It was really hard to fire it back up when it was hot also.. Cured all that thou..And I did swap the bumpers just like 3 days ago.. Sounds like you been busy, how about some updated pics when you get a chance. Very interested, to know how you solved the hot fuel issue?, as many have fought that battle myself included. What temp does engine run at in the heat of a Las Vegas summer? Quote
Lpdesignz Posted January 14, 2013 Author Report Posted January 14, 2013 Sounds like you been busy, how about some updated pics when you get a chance.Very interested, to know how you solved the hot fuel issue?, as many have fought that battle myself included. What temp does engine run at in the heat of a Las Vegas summer? Well I don't have a fan shrout so getting hot was a big issue when it was 115 outside... I put a electric fuel pump 4psi under the drivers door on the frame ran the fuel line around the firewall "away from the head".. Then I swapped the radiator cap to a 13 pound and used that purple ice in the radiator.. Never had a heating issue since... Quote
Lpdesignz Posted January 14, 2013 Author Report Posted January 14, 2013 Well I was just talking to previous owner of the cars "we became good friends after I bought these" and swears up and down the more door runs 100 times better so maybe I'll try and get it fired up this week and see what it does.. It's coming out of the more door regardless I wanna save the motor and trans and sell the car.. Always nice to have a spare around.. Quote
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