Distributor Rebuild

[John-T-53]

I have a spare dizzy (IAT-4011) that I've decided to rebuild and install on the new engine, since the old unit has never been touched except for tune-up parts here and there. For this one the plan is to install new bushings and outfit with a Pertronix eletronic ignition unit. Also sent the vacuum pot down to Terrill Machine in TX to get rebuilt.

New bushings are on order, but other than that I can't find any resources on how to do the rebuilding. Right now it's all apart except for the shaft and body, and I'm not sure how to take it from here without damage anything. Does the shaft just press down and out? Is the pin supposed to come out on the lower shaft (below the body)? If anybody's gotten this far before, please help.

Also, if you got specs (end play, bushing clearance, etc.), that too!

Thanks,

[John-T-53]

Update....went for it and drilled out the pin (it wouldn't budge with a drift and hammer). That was the ticket. The retainer collar slid down and the shaft could then be removed. The bushings were pounded out and now all parts can be cleaned. The shaft cleaned up good with red scotchbrite and WD-40.

Now just awaiting parts...

[TodFitch]

May or may not be too late for you on some details but the '46 to '54 Plymouth factory service manual shows that pin as being a rivet. Manual says:

... Clamp the distributor in a vise. Do tighten the vise excessively; otherwise, the bushing may become distorted. Check the distributor shaft bushings for wear. Attach a dial indicator to the distributor base and adjust the plunger of the indicator against the top of the drive shaft. Move the shaft "to and from" in the indictor with just enough force to indicate clearance.

Too much pressure will cause the shaft to spring and show a false reading. If the clearance is more that .008 inch, replace the bushings. File off the end of the rivet and drive it out of the drive shaft collar at the lower end of the distributor base. Push the shaft up through the collar and base. Press the bushings from the distributor base.

Assembly of Distributor

Before installing the new distributor shaft bushings they should be soaked in light engine oil for about 15 minutes. If there are oil holes in the bushings, be sure they are lined up with the oil holes in the distributor base, before pressing them into place. If there are no holes in the bushings, press them into the distributor base and drill with a 1/8 inch drill. It will be necessary to remove the oiler to drill the upper bushing. Ream the bushings to the shaft size. Remove burrs from inside the bushings and blow out all the chips.

Install the upper thrust washer on the distributor shaft and place the shaft in to the base. Install cover washers and the retaining collar. Insert the rivet bin the distributor shaft bu to not peen it. Measure distributor shaft end play by pressing on the top of the shaft and placing a flat feeler gauge between the bottom of the base and the lower thrust washer. If the end play is within specification, peen over the ends of the rivet. If the end play exceeds .008 inch, replace the thrust washers. ...

(May be some typos...)

[John-T-53]

Tod,

Thanks a bunch...this helps. There was definitely a solid pin on this distributor, not a rivet. I'll have to check the end play....008" is quite a bit, I think I'm less than this.

[Tom Skinner]

All great information. I have a distributor related question. Recently I purchased a little scale (32oz) hand held thing, and checked my points tension. It should be between 17-20 oz. It read 25oz. I didn't change it yet because I know if the tension is too low you can get point bounce, but what if it is a tad high?

What would be the symptoms of points to tight at the spring? Otherwise the car seems to run fine.

[TodFitch]

All great information. I have a distributor related question. Recently I purchased a little scale (32oz) hand held thing, and checked my points tension. It should be between 17-20 oz. It read 25oz. I didn't change it yet because I know if the tension is too low you can get point bounce, but what if it is a tad high?

What would be the symptoms of points to tight at the spring? Otherwise the car seems to run fine.

I would think the main issue would be that the plastic cam follower on the points might wear faster.

[John-T-53]

All great information. I have a distributor related question. Recently I purchased a little scale (32oz) hand held thing, and checked my points tension. It should be between 17-20 oz. It read 25oz. I didn't change it yet because I know if the tension is too low you can get point bounce, but what if it is a tad high?

What would be the symptoms of points to tight at the spring? Otherwise the car seems to run fine.

You can adjust spring tension by loosening the screw at the clamp and sliding the spring in or out, just make sure the copper conducting strap behind it isn't drawn up tight against the spring. According to the shop manual, this could cause the copper to break. Where'd you get the scale at? These are hard to find from my experience.

[Tom Skinner]

I picked it up off of ebay $10.

It was listed under Poulan Scale, however, the spelling on the scale was Poulanze. Its Brass (Antique) and about the size of a cigar.

Yes they are hard to come by I only saw 2 listed before Christmas.

I'll pull the distributor Saturday, and reset the Points tension and inspect the rubbing block. Thanks!

Tom

[Don Coatney]

I would think the main issue would be that the plastic cam follower on the points might wear faster.

I agree with that. As these are low RPM engines I doubt that a somewhat low spring tension would be an issue with point bounce or float.

[John-T-53]

On ‎1‎/‎13‎/‎2013 at 7:59 PM, John-T-53 said:

Update....went for it and drilled out the pin (it wouldn't budge with a drift and hammer). That was the ticket. The retainer collar slid down and the shaft could then be removed. The bushings were pounded out and now all parts can be cleaned. The shaft cleaned up good with red scotchbrite and WD-40.

Now just awaiting parts...

 

I came across a post that I made four years ago, and noticed that I am wearing gloves while using the lathe in the above photo.

Don't ever do this!!! This is bad!!! When using a lathe, wear no gloves, long sleeves, long hair or loose clothing. You'd be surprised how fast one of these machines can pull you in. The lathe is one of the most dangerous machines in a shop. I had not been properly trained at the time. I'm not speaking from mal experience, but if you google "lathe accident", that should tell you enough.

[ggdad1951]

Lots of machine shops wear gloves, but they wear the right ones.   Nitrile.