1953 Plymouth Convertible Rebuild Part 1

[James_Douglas]

I want to wish you well with your project.  I am just finishing a 2.5 year frame off restoration of a 1949 Desoto Convertible.  In the process I learned a couple of things that I would recommend you keep in mind.

 

1. Clips.  The low production convertibles from MOPAR used clips not generally used on the other cars.  No one makes them and NOS are almost impossible to get.  So, take your time removing the molding and SAVE your clips at all cost.

 

2. Dash, inside door hardware, and a few other places use NUMBER 12 AND NUMBER 14 screws.  The dash was a bitch as this became a problem.  They used number 14 screws in the dash to hold it to the body.  1/4 inch is not a number 14 screw.  I had to hit a bone yard 4 hours north of San Francisco and spend a day pulling enough good screws.  Even if yours are rusted, soak them, heat them, but get them off clean if you can.

 

3. Door seals.  The top end of the door seals were a molded special end.  I cut mine off carefully and came up with a process to rejuvenate them.  Hunt me down if this is the case on this car and I will talk with you about the process.

 

4. Pads.  In my case a lot of the body pads are not available.  I don't know about '53 and Plymouth.  My suggestions is to make sure that you take any die cast off carefully and try to preserve the pads as you may have to rejuvenate them or use them for patterns.

 

5. Engine and Trans.  We found out the hard way that at least on the 1949 Desoto's they bolted the body hard to the frame.  No body pads.  I confirmed this with several other cars.  The issue was when we tried to put the engine in.  The engine and trans will not go in as a unit on this particular body.  The trans bell will not clear the frame-tunnel from the front.  This, at least for 1949 Desoto, is a convertible only thing.  The trans has to come out from the back.  We think they bolted the body hard to the frame so the doors would close better and for scuttle shake.  So, do check and see if the engine and trans can come out as a unit or you have to take the trans out first.  We took the body off and then the engine-trans.  We hade so much fun going the other way!

 

I am sure there are other items that are buried in the back of my head.  If you want to chat them send me a PM and I will send you a number.  Good luck and do pay attention to the advise of others.  You will spend more than the car is worth to get it restored than if you just went out and purchased one done.

 

Good luck again on your project.

 

James

Edited May 14, 2013 by James_Douglas

[pflaming]

One week of harness building in. The dash is roughly wired, head light and tail light harnesses are next. Testing, clean up, and properly organized into a legit harness is next.  What a project. I have kept the color code, connector choice, soldered and put shrink sleaves on all connectors. 

 

My methodology: Replaced a wire at a time. More had be hacked then I realized. So I first replaced all that were intact, then I did all the dash ligthts, finally, I went out from the ignition and headlight switches to their intended destinations. 

 

As shown in the pic, I 'located' the regulator, relay, flasher, solenoid, on the bench so I could connect to them. I found that I had to pick a wire replace it and get the old wire out of sight, too many wires was confusing. I have kept all of them and have them labeled and hanging on a 5' x 3' cardboard panel. 

 

I also had to take breaks every several hours. I hated to walk away because this is a bit like chess, in that the wires are relational to a system, to leave was to lose the continuity of thought.

 

Plymouthy, Ed, and Dave clued me in on the smoke test. Seems the mfgrs cover the strand with some harmless coating so  that if you get it too hot it will smoke. No harm in that but according to the forementioned trio, a "no smoke" solder is preferred. 

(to be continued)

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited May 19, 2013 by pflaming

[Desotodav]

Looks like a work of art Paul. Keep up the good work!

[pflaming]

 

Spent a couple of hours cleaning things up. If this tests out, I'm not going to wrap it up. Is there anything problematic in that? 

[pflaming]

The harness is 99% complete. I need to attach the tail and backup lights, rebuild the top motor cables, and some other secondary lines. But the biggest part is complete. I haven't tested anything yet so that's ahead as well. But I'm making good progress. This is my first full harness. 

 

Edited June 24, 2018 by pflaming

[falconvan]

Nice job, Paul.

[pflaming]

Harness Update: There are little things left but they are best addressed when I install it in the car. It's is quite a project but was an enjoyable one. Plymouthy was a great help, I called him occasionally on some details, Thanks Tim.

 

Edit:5 / 28; I am going to use a terminal strip at the end of the incoming wires from the dash. That will be harness proper: then I will take sub harnesses out from there; (a) head lights, ( all tail lights, © flasher - horn relay - regulator; (d) Engine compartment: brake light switch - dimmer switch - starter solenoid - generator. So It is getting both understandable and close. 

 

THIS CLOSES THIS PART OF MY BUILD CHRONOLOGY. THE BUILD CONTINUES IN PART 2 WHERE I WILL CHRONICLE THE REBUILDING OF THE CHASSIS. 

 

THANK YOU FOR LOOKING, I HOPE YOU LEARNED SOMETHING.

 

Edited May 29, 2013 by pflaming

[Plymouthy Adams]

no problem Paul..good to see the progress you are making