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39 D11 Engine transmission Removal Question


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Posted

Not sure where I disconnect the transmission/driveline from the engine to remove the engine. I'm hopping to do it this weekend. Please see the picture where I added color arrows to the points I think it could be. Thanks!

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Posted

I have a 39 Desoto When I went to remove a trans on a 39 Dodge and also Desoto teh two front top plate bolts on the tran cover plat bolt intot he cover. You need to remove these two top bolts also before you can slide the trans out of the bellhousing.

I had removed the bolts that were indicated in the picture then after reading my shop manaul I found out that these two additioanl bolts had to be removed.

Also take the fron floor pans out and then you can see the top bolts and then you can lift the trans backwards and then out from the top.

It weights about 35 lbs so it is not that heavy of a unit.

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Posted

Concur with taking out the floor boards to get access.

I also have used two fairly long bolts that I cut the heads off of to make guide rods. Remove the top bolts holding the transmission to the bell housing and install the headless ones. Now, after you remove the rest of the transmission to bell housing bolts, you can slide the transmission back and easily get the input shaft clear of the clutch before you accidentally angle it when lowering. Makes even more of a difference when you are re-installing as you may have to hold the transmission in position, in (high) gear, and rotate the output shaft to rotate the input shaft to line up with splines with the clutch disc. Having the weight of the transmission taken by the headless bolts makes all the difference for me on that operation.

Posted
Do you have the front clip off? If so, disconnect the driveshaft and linkage and pull trans and engine together....if not, follow the above posts.

I do have the front clip off so, I can remove the rubber boot to get to disconnect the Driveshaft?

BTW my manual is very weak on engine removal like three bullet points.

Posted
I do have the front clip off so, I can remove the rubber boot to get to disconnect the Driveshaft?

BTW my manual is very weak on engine removal like three bullet points.

Do not remove the rubber boot on the u joint. Just unbolt the u joint via the 4 bolts. If you remove the rubber boot it is very hard to get back on. Just disconnect the u joint body from the end of the trans and also mark the holes with some paint so you can realign in the same position that you took if off to eliminate any vibration issues when putting it back together.

Look at the picture from above. The bolts at the red arrow and not the boot at the white arrow.

Rich HArtung

Posted
I do have the front clip off so, I can remove the rubber boot to get to disconnect the Driveshaft?

BTW my manual is very weak on engine removal like three bullet points.

Don't touch that boot! Won't do any good and damaging it (if it is in good shape) will mean you added to your work.

There are four nuts that hold the universal joint body to the studs on the parking brake drum, remove those and you should be able to compress the drive shaft (there are centering springs in the u-joint housings) and slide the shaft off the studs.

Posted

Don't know where you are working but I have two floor jacks, and I made a cradle that I fit onto one of them to use it as a transmission jack. 35 pounds isn't a big deal while removing it, but when you are laying on your back trying to support, wiggle, and slid it forward, it can become exponentially heavier as the minutes tick by.

Using the guid bolts is a very good tip. Just remember to put a slot in the outer end so you can back them out with a screw driver. I also replaced the top two bolts with cap screws so I can line them up and tighten them with a hex socket on a long extension, makes getting them started and tightened a lot easier that the standard bolts.

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