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Posted

Is there anyplace that I can send my carburetor to have it rebuilt? Or just trade it in for a new one? I have a BVX-3 carburetor and have tried to rebuild it more than once but never have got the kick down (idealer) to work right and so every time I come to a stop I haft to give the pedal a little gas to keep the car running. And yes I have tried to adjust it but to no avail. Thanks Jon

Posted
Is there anyplace that I can send my carburetor to have it rebuilt? Or just trade it in for a new one? I have a BVX-3 carburetor and have tried to rebuild it more than once but never have got the kick down (idealer) to work right and so every time I come to a stop I haft to give the pedal a little gas to keep the car running. And yes I have tried to adjust it but to no avail. Thanks Jon

Get a carb kit, and go to a nice clean work bench, unless your carb body is so warped and shaft fittings are all leaking. Do it yourself, it's not super difficult....

Posted

I don't know how difficult your carb is, but I did my Carter WCFB 4 barrel carburetor my own. It was the first one I did. Hole in one for me, runs like new now.

The trick....have a good overhaul kit with all the parts. (got mine from egge.com), cleaned the carburetor with thinner and a brush to get all the gunk out. Some of those little holes are hard to find. It took me one day of cleaning. Because of the numerous parts I recommend to take a lot of pictures and put it back together the next day.

Posted

If you are going to rebuild a carb (any carb) get the factory manual. Either the car factory or the factory that made the carburetor. Follow their instructions exactly. Do not go getting ideas of your own. If you do this the carburetor should work perfect for you.

The instruction sheets that come with the carb kits are incomplete and filled with errors. There are usually 4 or 5 measurements or procedures that must be done exactly, if these are off the carb will never work right.

Posted
If you are going to rebuild a carb (any carb) get the factory manual. Either the car factory or the factory that made the carburetor. Follow their instructions exactly. Do not go getting ideas of your own. If you do this the carburetor should work perfect for you.

The instruction sheets that come with the carb kits are incomplete and filled with errors. There are usually 4 or 5 measurements or procedures that must be done exactly' date=' if these are off the carb will never work right.[/quote']

Can you elaborate?

I have rebuilt a couple of the Carter Ball&Ball 1 bbl carbs, bought as tough as doing the briggs and stratton lawn mower type, well maybe a little tougher.

Just wondering which measurements you are referring to, the float level? or what others?

Posted

Gents,

Some carbs come from the factory with the caveat they can't be rebuilt and I'm curious as to why not. When I was a mechanic and sharp on carbs I tried to rebuild one of the unrebuildables and the factory was right. No air or fuel leaks and I used the factory manual but still no go. Maybe it was a market test to see how well the public accepted the notion of the throw-away cars we have today?

Just curious.

-Randy

Posted

It would be nice if JIBJOBXX let us know the status of his rebuild and where he got parts or a new carb. It is always good to end a thread with letting others know how things went. Hope he is OK as he is usually very good about posting results.

Posted
It would be nice if JIBJOBXX let us know the status of his rebuild and where he got parts or a new carb. It is always good to end a thread with letting others know how things went. Hope he is OK as he is usually very good about posting results.

Yup, I agree, Jon can you let us know the end result on this topic...

Posted

Think I will just sit on my carberator for a little winter project. Till then I just can pull back the troutle a little and increase the rpms so it won't die. I might just try another adjustment but that will be it. I have rebuilt this carberator and I know it's easy but it's flustrating to not get it right the first time. That could be the reason I might just keep checking e-bay for a nos carberator. Well time will tell-Jon

Posted
Think I will just sit on my carberator for a little winter project. Till then I just can pull back the troutle a little and increase the rpms so it won't die. I might just try another adjustment but that will be it. I have rebuilt this carberator and I know it's easy but it's flustrating to not get it right the first time. That could be the reason I might just keep checking e-bay for a nos carberator. Well time will tell-Jon

Jon, you could turn up the idle a bit , until you can pull the carb. Hey if you can get another carb, and swap that might be a better bet, then you can rebuild yours for a spare...

Posted
Can you elaborate?

I have rebuilt a couple of the Carter Ball&Ball 1 bbl carbs, bought as tough as doing the briggs and stratton lawn mower type, well maybe a little tougher.

Just wondering which measurements you are referring to, the float level? or what others?

I was speaking generally. On a 4 barrel carb there are going to be more adjustments than on a 1 barrel.

The point is, even a beginner can rebuild a carb successfully by just cook booking it together using the factory instructions.

Posted
I was speaking generally. On a 4 barrel carb there are going to be more adjustments than on a 1 barrel.

The point is' date=' even a beginner can rebuild a carb successfully by just cook booking it together using the factory instructions.[/quote']

Absolutely, I would not even try something like a 4bbl, the 1 bbl are not too bad though...

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Does you car stall when you come to a stop when the weather is below freezing. Then I could be you heat riser. When this happens then look at the base of the cab and see if the is frost on the flange. Id there is frost then the heat riser is not working to heat up the base of the carb so the fuel is freezing as it vaporizes. Yes pulling out the throttle will stop the car from stalling.

Rich Hartung

Posted

After rebuilding the carburetor a few years ago somehow I mist the needle valve adjustment or something because when I went to do that adjustment the needle valve was broke oft. But I was lucky enough to have a spare one and got the old one out and replaced it with another needle valve. In between times I bought a new vacuum advance and installed that in my totally rebuilt distributor and guess what? Between the new needle valve and the new vacuum advance my cars runs like it was almost new. It comes to an ideal with no hesitation and no pumping the gas to keep the car running. So end of story the biggest problem I had with my carburetor was the broke oft needle valve and the leaky old vacuum advance!!! I'm one happy camper now! Oh I do have a new old stock complete BXVD Carburetor Repair Kit!!!!!! plus a gasket Package repair kit ! If anyone one is interested in buying it from me I will sell it for what I paid for it 35 dollars plus shipping. Contact me oft line if interested. Jon:)

olddodgefirstday-1.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

PS. That picture was taken probably around 25 years ago and the kids inside well one is and Attorney and the other is a Registered Nurse. Oh that good looking bab is my wife of 44 years now :)

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I've just started my car that hasn't been started in about 15 years. Started right up but sometimes it won't start until I squirt some fuel into the carb.

It's starting to happen more often. What can be the cause? I'm running an electric fuel pump. Once the car is on there is no problem. Does the carb need rebuilding? Theres a stamp on it that states 3-87B. Is this a BVX3? How can I tell?

I was using this as a a reference for my 1940 Desoto coupe

http://carburetor-manual.com/libro/Stromberg-Condensed-Catalog-ocr.pdf

Edited by 40desoto
Mispelling
Posted

Thank You. I have found it... Its a BVX-3 for BVX-3 I only see linked references to a 3-87C not a 3-87B

No problem I was told by a shop that the symptoms are most like like cause by a bad accelerator pump. I did try to run it with gunked up fuel which the shop said could be the cause..

Does a bad accelerator pump cause the car not to start until I pour gas in the carb?

Posted

Thank You for all the help.  It is a BVX-3 carb.  What seems to have happened is that I ran old fuel through the carb which caused the problem.  It wasnt a prob when I pumped fuel from a container, but once I connected to the fuel tank this started happening.  I have sicne replaced all fuel lines and filters. 

Anyone know of a way to clean the carb and getting rid of all contaminants instead of having the carb rebuilt?

 

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