Power Transfer ?

[Dan Hiebert]

Greetings all, time to avail myself of the infinite wisdom of this forum - again . I've already tried a search for this, but apparently I'm dancing all around the right buzz-words.

This is our D24 w/ fluid drive - When initially taking off or accelerating after changing gears, the engine winds up quite a bit before the drive train "grabs". Like there's no connection. Happens when going through all the gears, or when leaving it in 3rd. No issues when cold, this started after we had driven for a few miles. Once it's "grabbed" the car moves out just fine, and that "grab" is smooth, not jerky or noisy by any means. It was a fairly warm day (for here, anyway). We drove it to a wedding last month when it was considerably cooler and over a longer distance with no issues. I haven't left any puddles of fluid anywhere that I've noticed.

I have not had time to check anything - Just figured I'd ping you'uns for thoughts and recommendations (and to keep me at K.I.S.S. level before I spin up and do something silly). Fluid drive level low / fluid foaming / that's what it does - get over it / clutch adjustment?

I don't recall that the old girl has ever done this before.

[Merle Coggins]

It sounds to me that your clutch isn't fully engaging right away (slipping) after releasing the pedal. I can't imagine anything within the FD unit that would cause these symptoms. It is s simple fluid coupling that transfers power when it spins. The faster it spins the more power is transfered, more or less. If the fluid level was low it may be sluggish, but I don't believe it would cause the symptoms you describe. However, if the clutch hangs up and doesn't fully engage, it will allow the engine to rev up without transfering any power. Then once it finally clamps down on the clutch disc all is good. Do you have some free play in the pedal? If not it may not be allowing the clutch to fully engage. Check the adjustments on your clutch to be sure it's working properly.

My truck has FD with a 4 speed. I had my clutch begin to slip under heavier loads and I would notice higher engine revs without more forward momentem. It was especially noticible when trying to accelerate hard through the gears or pulling a hill under heavy throttle. If I babyed it I could limp it along, until I finally pulled the clutch and had it rebuilt. I realized then that it failed me because I had cleaned it with solvant when I built the truck, and that solvent eventually acted like oil impregnation to the clutch disc and it lost it's friction properties.

Merle

[Rusty O'Toole]

2 things I would mention. One is, your description sounds like the normal working of a Fluid Drive. Chrysler described it as something like flying an airplane. When taking off the engine revs up and the car hardly seems to be moving, but soon you are flying along with the engine at normal revs. The Fluid Drive has less "bite" at low speeds than a torque converter.

The second is, you are supposed to check and topup the Fluid Drive unit every 10,000 miles. The filler is on the right side of the transmission tunnel, directly below the dash.

Roll back the carpet and you should see a plate held by philips screws. Remove the plate and you will see the bellhousing with a round tin plug covering a hole. Pry out the tin plug and turn the Fluid Drive unit by "bumping" the starter. Soon a plug will come into view. Stuff a rag around the hole and unscrew the plug. The fluid should be up to the plug. If not, top it up with straight #10 motor oil or TDH tractor fluid, ISO 32 or ISO 22 grade. TDH stands for transmission, differential and hydraulic fluid. ISO 32 is a little thicker than #10, ISO 22 is a little thinner. The thinner fluid works better if you can get it but the ISO 32 is more readily available. You can get it at Walmart, farm supply stores, and auto parts stores.

Fluid Drive will work even when low on fluid but it has the effect of a high stall speed torque converter, it lets the engine rev up faster as you take off. This was an old hop up trick for faster acceleration. It won't hurt the Fluid Drive or transmission if it is a little low.

Edited June 18, 2012 by Rusty O'Toole

[Dan Hiebert]

Thanks for the recommendations, Gents! I feel kind of silly when I get the obvious back, but just wanted to be sure I didn't need to start running in small circles. Technically, even though I put the new clutch in many years ago, it really doesn't have that many miles on it, so its probably due for a "break-in" adjustment. Just wasn't thinking along those lines, so thanks for the rudder steer.

[Dan Hiebert]

Sanity check.

I looked up the clutch free play adjustment in my shop manual - which brought back memories of making the adjustments when I installed the new clutch. First adjust the clutch pedal position relative to the floor (as close as possible without touching), then adjust the free play. The overcenter spring adjustment is a separate issue, but I recall that adjusting that (mine has the turnbuckle) changed the position of the clutch pedal. Problem is that I don't have the overcenter spring guage. (Any recommendations how to get around that?) I am thinking I should have the overcenter spring adjustment squared away first (all it really does is "ease the effort" of releasing the clutch - when "properly adjusted"), then address the clutch adjustment. The shop manual doesn't say which to do first, matter of fact, it says they're not related.

I realize this is just basic mechanics, but I figured for once I'd ping a knowledgeable group for advice BEFORE tearing into something, even as simple as this. Can't hurt, and I always learn new things from you'uns.

Edited June 19, 2012 by Dan Hiebert

[Don Coatney]

If you go to the main webpage supporting this forum, in the downloads section there is a template for making an overcenter spring tool.

I adjusted my overcenter spring without the benefit of this tool. With a bit of trial and error it can be done.

[Dan Hiebert]

Adjusted the clutch pedal free play the other night. Decided to get it done before the weekend so I could drive the ol' Dodge in to work and get it inspected on the way home. The connections are a little sloppy from wear, so I did my best to ignore that (thinking back, I probably paid too much attention to that when I installed the clutch) and just deal with the free play. A bit embarassing to admit, but there was none. Drove it to and from work through quite a bit of stop-n-go and over the relatively substantial south Grand Island bridges with nary a problem - well, 'cept for the cloud of blue smoke during rapid deceleration to take the exits - but I chalk that up as "character", not a problem . Thanks to all for keeping me down to earth on the fix.

[greg g]

You might still want to have a look at the fluid level. But if you see no leaks its probably OK, I mean what could happen in 65 years??? Kidding aside the FD units are pretty near indestructable and problem free.

[Don Coatney]

My linkage was also very worn and sloppy. I brased up the egg shaped holes and re-drilled them. I also made new pins, Works well now.