1942 brake job/axle bearings/seals

[Young Ed]

In order for the shims to do anything the bearings races need to be flush with the shims or in other words against the backing plates as you said. Its a procedure but this is how we do it. Put the shims in and bolt down the backing plates. Hit each axle with a hammer firmly but don't beat them up. This will push the opposite side out against the backing plate. Then check your freeplay. If its good you're done. If not you have to add or subtract shims and try again.

[jcmiller]

Thanks Ed. It's all starting to make more sense now. On the other thread, the person mentioned reattaching the slide hammer and giving it a couple whacks, probably to seat the races, like your technique will do. I'm looking forward to getting to it this weekend. Do you put a any kind of sealant on the shims?

[Young Ed]

Do you put a any kind of sealant on the shims?

Nope dry.

[jcmiller]

I started putting it back together tonight and gave the outer axle driveshaft bearing oil seals some additional scrutiny. I thought it was odd that there were only four bolts holding it and the backing plate on when there are five holes in the axle housing. I checked the parts book and it says there should be 10 total bolts for both axles and not just 8. I guess I need to get new seals and a couple more bolts. The strange thing about these seals is that there is a fifth hole in back, but no apparent way to get a nut on a bolt. It's covered up by a rounded portion on the front.

[desoto1939]

On the bay is a picture of the five bolt oil seal and I also saw the same natco brand listed that has the round catch style.

I think someone switch the outer oil seal.

here is the link for ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1936-1942-REAR-OUTER-AXLE-OIL-SEAL-MOPAR-DODGE-CHRYSLER-DESOTO-PLYMOUTH-/330777819039?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d03e4f79f&vxp=mtr

here is the style on the bay that you currently have installed: http://www.ebay.com/itm/One-Rear-Axle-Grease-Seal-1936-1942-Chrysler-DeSoto-Dodge-Plymouth-/110958975764?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d5ab9b14&vxp=mtr

Rich HArtung

desoto1939@aol.com

Edited October 4, 2012 by desoto1939

[jcmiller]

Thanks Rich. I contacted the guy who has the same kind for sale to see if the packaging had an explanation. It did - the protrusion in the housing is to collect any oil that makes its way past the seal. The collected oil then drips back through the hole where the 5th bolt is supposed to be. Of course I learned this about 2 hours after ordering the 5 bolt seals from the other vendor you pointed out.

The HOTCO Grease Seal catches all grease caused by leaking inner retainers & bypasses it out the back of the backing plate, saves brake lining, saves rear wheels from locking, skidding, increases brake lining life.

Instructions: Simply remove bottom nut & bolt & discard, leaving opening for drain & install. It is recommended to use (a gasket seal) for positive results. You stop all come back on your brake job, due to grease on the lining or drum.

[desoto1939]

I thought the outdent was to catach the oil from the axle. thanks for the explanation

Rich Hartung

[jcmiller]

The seals arrived and everything is pretty much back together. I know I should check the axle end play but don't have the gauge or the know-how. Is it reasonable to skip it since I kept track of the shims and reinstalled them the same way?

Assuming I need to do it, I see from the manual that to check the axle end play you attach a dial gauge to the backing plate and the tip of the gauge to the end of the axle. Do you hit the other side with a hammer to check the movement? It seems like it should read the same on either side - is that right?

Last, I noticed there is a pronounced groove on the rear hubs (see picture). It's probably wishful thinking, but it looks like it is machined and intended to be there. Is it?

[TodFitch]

The seals arrived and everything is pretty much back together. I know I should check the axle end play but don't have the gauge or the know-how. Is it reasonable to skip it since I kept track of the shims and reinstalled them the same way?

Assuming I need to do it, I see from the manual that to check the axle end play you attach a dial gauge to the backing plate and the tip of the gauge to the end of the axle. Do you hit the other side with a hammer to check the movement? It seems like it should read the same on either side - is that right?

Last, I noticed there is a pronounced groove on the rear hubs (see picture). It's probably wishful thinking, but it looks like it is machined and intended to be there. Is it?

That grove on the hub looks like where an old seal failed and rubbed it. A speed-sleeve should fix it.

I don't think that you hit the far side axle to check the end play on the near side. Seems pretty brutal to me. Seems like just pushing and pulling on the axle should be enough to check the end play.

[jcmiller]

That grove on the hub looks like where an old seal failed and rubbed it. A speed-sleeve should fix it.

I don't think that you hit the far side axle to check the end play on the near side. Seems pretty brutal to me. Seems like just pushing and pulling on the axle should be enough to check the end play.

Have you heard of using a speedi-sleeve for a tapered shaft? I've checked around and it looks like they are just for straight shafts. I think you're right that the groove is not a design feature. I compared both sides closely and the grooves are not identical.

[TodFitch]

Have you heard of using a speedi-sleeve for a tapered shaft? I've checked around and it looks like they are just for straight shafts. I think you're right that the groove is not a design feature. I compared both sides closely and the grooves are not identical.

I was referring to the sealing surface on the hub which, at least on my car and from the appearances in the photo, are not tapered:

I had to do the same thing fixing a rear axle leak on my car: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/axle_seal/

You can see the speed-sleeve in this photo:

[jcmiller]

Thanks Tod. The picture doesn't show it, but there is a slight taper to the hub shaft. But perhaps it is so slight that the speedi-sleeve will still work. That's a helpful tutorial that you put together.

[jcmiller]

I was hoping today would be the end of a long, slow brake job. Everything was back together and the brakes adjusted; I just needed to add the fluid. I figured there would be a leak or two, but unfortunately the leak was where the brass t-fitting screws into the back of the master cylinder so I couldn't just tighten it. In the process of taking that area apart and tightening things up, I turned a small leak into a big one by mucking up the threads on one of the outlets on the T. Does anyone have an extra to sell? The part number is 868048 and it looks like it may be unique to the '42s. A picture of the part is attached. Thanks.

[deathbound]

If you don't find it....check here:http://www.vvap.com/index.asp

They have it listed for $9.

[Young Ed]

If you're not set on keeping that T I have a MC core that would give up the back with 2 holes for lines. Sadly switching this would probably require new lines.

[jcmiller]

Thanks guys. If I can get one for $9 that will be a pretty inexpensive lesson. I'll contact Valley Vintage tomorrow.