Tom Skinner Posted July 29, 2015 Report Posted July 29, 2015 I know this sounds crazy. Wooden Clothes Pins work! The pincher kind - with the spring. L.O.L. Also when real hot - say upper 90's - floor the gas pedal to clear the carb for real hot starts. Quote
46Ply Posted July 29, 2015 Report Posted July 29, 2015 Wooden clothes pin? I've heard this before, but where do you put the clothes pin? Quote
Dave72dt Posted July 29, 2015 Report Posted July 29, 2015 on the fuel line, engine compartment, close to the carb. I've seen anywhere from 1 to a half dozen used. Also heard and seen cow magnets on the fuel line will help. have no proof either really works or if they do, why. Quote
st63 Posted July 29, 2015 Report Posted July 29, 2015 One other little side note to add....I had a similar issue with hard starting when warm, and methodically worked my way through the fuel system and carb until I noticed that the heat riser in the manifold was stuck in the open position because the spring and pivot had frozen up.....fixed that, and the hard starting issue was solved. There's a good tech article on how to fix it here on the forums. Quote
Conroe Powdercoating Posted July 29, 2015 Report Posted July 29, 2015 (edited) Thanx all for your replies, on this topic, and my dilemna. I have searched and found I have been flogging this "dead horse", off and on for years. I have rebuilt this carb, fuel pump puts out the correct volume of fuel. I have a rebuilt distributor, newer coil, wires plugs etc. But this sumbich, is a PITA to start after a highway drive, , it makes it difficult to want to go for a ride on a nice warm day. Today we have Seattle weather, 50s, fine spray outside. I go for a short drive, then come home, engine just warmed up, re-starts no problem. If I went on a the highway, stopped for a few minutes, it would be a bugger to restart. I am tired of trying to figure this out, and don't want anyone else wasting there time on it either, I should have been able to correct this years ago, but I have failed......... I've been through this, swapped out everything for new parts (points, condesor,cap, rotor, wires, plugs, carb rebuild etc etc etc) and still couldnt get it reliable ...really, get a pertronix module and matching coil and be happy. it solved all of my starting woes, I can now drive and not worry about stopping at a store for a coke and not have it start for 30 minutes. It fires right up, cold or hot, no problems and I can enjoy/trust my car again. For those that care about looking original, everything is hidden under the distributor cap and the coil even is black and looks factory. Edited July 29, 2015 by Conroe Powdercoating 1 Quote
DonaldSmith Posted July 29, 2015 Report Posted July 29, 2015 Is the "Ignitor" good enough for our postwar Mopars, or would you recommend the "Ignitor II", or "Ignitor III"? 1 Quote
Conroe Powdercoating Posted July 29, 2015 Report Posted July 29, 2015 (edited) I am by far no expert on the modules and dont know the difference in options between them. I emailed pertronix and told them what distributor I had and they recommended the module and matching coil. then I took those part numbers and found on amazon for a lot cheaper. All I know is my car was unreliable, therefore un-useable and now i dont hesitate to hop in and go anywhere, no matter how many stops in between, it always starts now. I would have been happy solving the hot start problem I had but it not only did that, but it starts faster, idles smoother and runs down the road better. I fought the stock ignition for years, tons of new parts etc etc and just basically ended up not driving the car, I love driving this car when it is acting right...and now it is. there is no comparison between the two systems and it looking stock was kinda important to me, I still run all stock everything under the hood except ignition. oh, and I'm still on 6v positive ground. this was the only system I know of that gives me electronic ignition w/o 12v conversion. I also know its like being a modern day caveman insisting on rubbing sticks together for fire when I could have easily picked up a lighter ....I'm a caveman no more. Edited July 29, 2015 by Conroe Powdercoating 1 Quote
scott_53 Posted July 30, 2015 Report Posted July 30, 2015 I was having hot start problems as well. I did the same thing, put in a pertronix (ignitor) and the matching coil. I also just put in an electric fuel pump (Airtex E8011) way back by the gas tank. Now it leaps to a hot start. Today was 90 here....started right up hot. I was wilting, but the car was running. Bypassed the mechanical fuel pump, wired the pump in with a relay and an inertia cut off switch in case of an accident.....but to me it was worth the effort and expense, it just starts right up...hot...cold...whatever. I so agree...I like that I can enjoy/trust my car. My wife likes it too. Happy wife...happy life! Almost forgot...the pertronix support is excellent...either by email or phone. I had a few questions. 2 Quote
fudds54 Posted November 1, 2015 Report Posted November 1, 2015 What kind of relay did you use for the electric pump? 6volt or 12 volt? I havent had luck finding a 6volt relay. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 1, 2015 Report Posted November 1, 2015 for six volt application of relay...look to the solid state device....cheap and very versitile Quote
scott_53 Posted November 1, 2015 Report Posted November 1, 2015 I used a 6 volt relay. I'll try to find where I bought it (online), but in the mean time its a Tyco Electronics 0-1432873-1. Quote
scott_53 Posted November 1, 2015 Report Posted November 1, 2015 Here's a link...pretty sure I got mine from these guys? http://www.newark.com/te-connectivity-potter-brumfield/1432873-1/relay-automotive-spdt-14vdc-40a/dp/21M4888?CMP=AFF-CJ-6147624-Newark%20Product%20Catalog Quote
scott_53 Posted November 1, 2015 Report Posted November 1, 2015 Ooops, above, I gave you the link to a 14 volt relay not the 6 volt. here is the right 6 volt one http://www.newark.com/te-connectivity-potter-brumfield/1432872-1/automotive-relay-spdt-6vdc-40a/dp/21M4887 Forgive me if you are familiar with relays, but I didn't know a relay from a kosher pickle, but I did learn a lot from this site http://www.rattlebars.com/avalanche/relay_basics.html Cheers Scott Quote
dodgeguy Posted November 2, 2015 Report Posted November 2, 2015 On a hot start, fuel related problem. I have new fuel pump, heat shields, fuel lines and tank. Thought I had all fuel delivery problems solved. Car was idling outside coffee shop quit would not restart. Let it cool off put 2 gal fresh fuel in ( thought fuel gauge was wrong} restarted. Put new electric fuel pump in no more problems. Also around this time I switched to a dry element air filter so I don't know for sure. Old mech. pump still on block, need to make block off plate. This car makes me so nervous when I drive it, its not funny. 1 Quote
DonaldSmith Posted November 2, 2015 Report Posted November 2, 2015 If you install a block-off plate, check your screw depth. Once upon a time, I fabricated a block-off plate that was thinner than the fuel pump flanges, but I used the existing machine screws. The fuel pump cam hit one of the screws. It unscrewed hard, but I got it out. It was no longer straight. 1 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.