Paint and penetrating oil compatibility

[pflaming]

A very highly respected body shop man in town suggested to protect the patina I rub it down with automatic transmission fluid. He said some use WD 40 but that that leaves an 'oil' in the metal pores and paint will not stick.

Question: Is that true to all penetrating oils? Does that mean that WD 40 etc is a no no in body shops? I have used PB Blaster a LOT on small parts, then etch primered and painted. Will that paint stick?

[ggdad1951]

I *THINK* that any oil will be hard to paint over unless you degrease it somehow. Depends on how the oil flashes off/residue types. I've ALWAYS cleaned oil off prior to painting with a degreaser/deoiler.

[pflaming]

So lacquer thinner or gasoline are not suggested? How does a primer etching work. Is there a chemical reation in that verses just a primer?

[HanksB3B]

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Hank

[55 Fargo]

Paul, if you have any oil,grease type petroleum based products, clean off with lacquer thinner, solvent, varsol or reducers. There are naptha/mineral spirit combos sold to degrease and get old wax off before priming and paint, that would need to be done before primer and paint.

Self-etching primer is for bare steel, it has an acid in it to etch to clean metal.

I know a lot of body people who do not use it anymore, but lay on a good quality 2k epoxy primer 1st, then all body filler, primer surfacers go over that. I have opted to go with enamel based rusty metal primer 1st, to be followed with fillers, 2k urethane high buld primer, then topcoats.

ATF on the surface could be cleaned off with solvent, then primers coould be sprayed on, but if your stripping to bare steel, clean off the ATF 1st, then strip.....

[48Dodger]

Yah......guys who like their patina use tranny fluid to protect the "current state of decay".....much like spraying WD40 on brake parts, and chrome to drive out moisture while in storage. Where WD40 luburcates, tranny fluid has cleaning qualities (hydralic detergents etc..) which can even clean oil off of truck parts. Its a cheap "tool", but I would still use a good wax on your truck.

48D

[Dave72dt]

Anything with silicone in it is a no-no for paint and bodywork which may be in

WD40. I would think ATF would also get into pores of metal. The natural oils in your skin can create issues in paint when left on bare steel.

True patina is an ongoing process. It took 60 years to get it looking the way it does now. Applying oils or spraying with clear coats sounds more like an attempt to stop the process at some point. I wouldn't put anything on it my self.

Etching primer I believe relies on a chemical reaction for bonding but should still use a wax and grease remover before applying paint.

[48Dodger]

Etching primers are designed for metal that isn't sanded....there is acid in the primer to do the "sanding". I keep a spray can of it around to spary on areas that i can't reach very well. I love PCL 901 Primer, but its not designed to be sprayed on etching primers....so in that case I use Feather Fill G2 Evercoat....a poly primer capable of being sprayed over etching primers.

48D

[pflaming]

I haven't waxed or rubbed anything on my surfaces yet. I want to get on the road first. Therefore I take notice of anything that has to do with old paint preservation or old school look. Rubbed down my tail gate over 60 days ago and it has been outside since. It is still shiny and smooth. It has that 'wet look' which I like.

Good information for me. Thank you.