james curl Posted July 11, 2012 Report Posted July 11, 2012 I have thinned the steering arms as Fat Mans instructions say to do, have the counter sunk screws also. The screws are not the problem, it is the bottom surface of the steering arm is not above the flanged boss on the lower A frame. The next time you have your car jacked up in the front turn your wheels all the way to lock and look at the steering arm on the inside wheel. You will see that it is under the flanged boss on the A frame. If you do not move the spindle mounting boss up at least 3" on the up right the steering arm will not clear the flanged boss on the top of the lower A frame. Quote
yourpc48 Posted July 11, 2012 Author Report Posted July 11, 2012 Unfortunately I sold my car a couple of weeks ago. Sorry to hear that your uprights are such a problem. There is a brake conversion kit I have seen in some threads that looks like it has the plate on the front side of the spindle. I wish I knew which kit it was but maybe you can find it. Im sure if you can figure out a way of getting the plate on the other side of the spindle you would be better off. I dont have a car to mock it up on any more but I have a set of brakes that came off my Caravan that my have a shallower depth. It is a smaller diameter though. With some work it may be able to be adapted. Would you like me to take a measurement on it and compare it to the Explorer spare that I have on hand? It would be cool if you could get that plate swapped to the other side. Let me know. Quote
james curl Posted July 11, 2012 Report Posted July 11, 2012 No to the offer of the dimension, it is the Scare bird kit that has the plate on the outside of the spindle I believe. I will have to measure my stock set up to determine if my dropped up rights have enough drop to allow full travel without hitting the trunnion boss on the A frame. If they do not I will just have to live with the reduced steering angle or not install them on my car. For now they are mocked up on a stub cut from a frame to install a Fat Mans M-II stub on a car that has never been finished. Sometimes these kind of projects overwhelm the car owner and the car gets sold or abandoned. Quote
yourpc48 Posted July 11, 2012 Author Report Posted July 11, 2012 No to the offer of the dimension, it is the Scare bird kit that has the plate on the outside of the spindle I believe. I will have to measure my stock set up to determine if my dropped up rights have enough drop to allow full travel without hitting the trunnion boss on the A frame. If they do not I will just have to live with the reduced steering angle or not install them on my car. For now they are mocked up on a stub cut from a frame to install a Fat Mans M-II stub on a car that has never been finished. Sometimes these kind of projects overwhelm the car owner and the car gets sold or abandoned. I totally understand your frustration. Hope the idea of the other kit works out for your situation. Quote
fstfish66 Posted July 24, 2012 Report Posted July 24, 2012 Unfortunately I sold my car a couple of weeks ago. Sorry to hear that your uprights are such a problem. There is a brake conversion kit I have seen in some threads that looks like it has the plate on the front side of the spindle. I wish I knew which kit it was but maybe you can find it. Im sure if you can figure out a way of getting the plate on the other side of the spindle you would be better off. I dont have a car to mock it up on any more but I have a set of brakes that came off my Caravan that my have a shallower depth. It is a smaller diameter though. With some work it may be able to be adapted. Would you like me to take a measurement on it and compare it to the Explorer spare that I have on hand? It would be cool if you could get that plate swapped to the other side. Let me know. just wondering why you sold the car ??? did u complete the brake conversion ??? sorry to see u sell your car,,but if u neeeded too glad u were able,,, Quote
yourpc48 Posted July 24, 2012 Author Report Posted July 24, 2012 The front brakes were done. I had just picked up an Explorer rear end, driveshaft and Explorer master cylinder but did not get them into the car before I sold it. I wanted to take that money and invest it in my wifes business so I sold the car. After we get it going I shouldnt have a problem building another car. I am also keeping the disk brake template so I can convert the brakes on it too. (As long as its a p15) Quote
fstfish66 Posted August 3, 2012 Report Posted August 3, 2012 The front brakes were done. I had just picked up an Explorer rear end, driveshaft and Explorer master cylinder but did not get them into the car before I sold it. I wanted to take that money and invest it in my wifes business so I sold the car. After we get it going I shouldnt have a problem building another car. I am also keeping the disk brake template so I can convert the brakes on it too. (As long as its a p15) good luck on your venture Quote
yourpc48 Posted August 3, 2012 Author Report Posted August 3, 2012 good luck on your venture Thank you. Quote
Eneto-55 Posted April 28, 2014 Report Posted April 28, 2014 Reviving this old thread to ask another question about disk brake adaptations. I know, there's all that stuff about reinventing the wheel, but being rather picky about wanting to stick with all MoPar parts, I've been watching for a disk setup that is a fairly easy conversion, but still uses all MoPar parts. I saw a thread on another forum about upgrading the front disk brakes on the early Dodge Journeys (2009 through 2011, I think) from the smaller stock brakes to the larger ones used on the later models. The early originals are apparently single piston/cylinder calipers, while the later, larger ones appear to be dual piston. Looking that the older style, I'm wondering if those might fit inside a stock Plymouth wheel. Does anyone have stock wheels and a 2009 - 2011 Dodge Journey, to check if the Plymouth wheels would go on the Dodge? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 26, 2015 Report Posted January 26, 2015 That is a good question and while I looked up the data and found that the rotors are 11.88 diameter I do not now if the 15 inch stock rim would clear...the later offset rims and such are designed around disc calipers. I do know that the slightly larger 2004 Dakota rotors that measure 12.1259 diameter will not allow even the later model 15 rims to bolt on without interference..I used late model 16" rims... Quote
rolnthunder Posted January 27, 2015 Report Posted January 27, 2015 Im actually in the process of seeing if the factory 15" wheels will fit over the explorer brakes. In the next few days im going to take a wheel to my grandmas and try it on her explorer to see. I plan on using this conversion on my 53 I greatly appreciate the scale drawings and all the hard work this was put into this conversion! Quote
Jim Yergin Posted January 27, 2015 Report Posted January 27, 2015 I had to remove material from the calipers to get my 15" original wheels to fit on an Explorer rear end with disc brakes. I have since gone with Explorer rear drums. Jim Yergin Quote
YukonJack Posted January 27, 2015 Report Posted January 27, 2015 the disc brakes require a lot more fluid then the drum brakes to work correctly,,, if you had a dual res master,,for disc/drum,,you would see a lot better braking,,,and your front would lock up way before the rears,,,the front brakes on any car do the most of your stopping power,,, so ide switch over to a disc/drum master,, the smaller the bore the more pressure to the system,,,,the bigger the master cyl bore,,,will require more foot pressure to do the same stopping,,, a 1987 dakota manual master cyl for disc/drum is what i run on my super charged barracuda,,, its metric in bore size but works out to 15/16 in the sae conversion,,, i run a adjustable valve on the rear brake lines,,and the car has very tall tires so its turned up as high as it will go,,, u can do the same on ur coupe,,i will switch my coupe over to the same master soon,,,u can get o-ringed caps from any of the after market brake guys to convert your master to remote res bottle,, with a master under the floor,,the master is lower then the calipers,,so you will need residual valves at the master to prevent the fluid from draining back down,,, i think its 10 on the front and 2 on the rear,,, i can look if u need to know,,, I was always under the impression that on a disc, drum set up the rear brakes build up a certain amount of pressure before the front disc start to apply to prevent the front from locking up. Quote
rolnthunder Posted January 29, 2015 Report Posted January 29, 2015 the residual valve have nothing to do with front or rear brakes. you use a 2psi valve for disc brakes or 10psi valve for drums. So if you have all disc you would use two 2psi valves at the master cylinder. if you have all drums you use two 10psi valve. if you have disc in front and drums out back you should have a 2psi valve for the front and 10psi valve for the rear. I ran into this problem a few years ago when the master cylinder was below the wheel cylinders on my rail buggy. I had a terrible time trying to bleed the brakes because nobody told me about the residual pressure valves. once i installed them it worked like a champ. I hope i cleared that up a bit. it can be confusing. 2 Quote
OnkelUdo Posted May 10, 2016 Report Posted May 10, 2016 Just to re-revive a once dead and already once revived thread... Since all the links to the .pdf template seem to be dead, did anyone save one they would like to share? this would be an ideal application for our LeMons race car build of a P15. The smaller single caliper GM calipers used on the off-the-shelf conversions, or a version of them, could not stand up to the abuse on our former race car and we had to build brackets for the twin piston calipers for Corvette C5...those would be overkill for the lighter P15 and also require 17" wheels. Thanks! Quote
wayfarer Posted May 11, 2016 Report Posted May 11, 2016 Just to re-revive a once dead and already once revived thread... Since all the links to the .pdf template seem to be dead, did anyone save one they would like to share? Thanks! How 'bout just sending a pm to the link-poster and ask directly for a re-post? . 1 Quote
yourpc48 Posted January 24, 2017 Author Report Posted January 24, 2017 Hi. I have revived the page on my website that has the PDF files on it. The link in the early posts should work again. I also have the files in the post I did on the HAMB website. I would have posted the files directly to this site as well but didnt know of a way to do that. I spent a couple of days recreating the subdomain and page info and also the pdf files so I could share it again. Heres a link to the page if you need it: http://car.icompute.info/disk_bake_bracket.htm I also have uploaded the files to the forum here. p15_d24_disk_brake_bracket.pdf brake bracket.pdf Quote
casper50 Posted January 24, 2017 Report Posted January 24, 2017 yourpc48 what year Ford calipers? I already have 4 wheel disc but I'm sure someone will need/want to know. Quote
yourpc48 Posted January 24, 2017 Author Report Posted January 24, 2017 Hi Casper50. My very first post on this thread tells what years fit (however 5 pages in) its worth mentioning again. Its 95-2001 Ford Explorer 4wd Front Calipers and Rotors. Quote
falconvan Posted January 25, 2017 Report Posted January 25, 2017 This is a great setup for the old Mopars couldn't get any easier or more budget friendly. I've done three cars with this setup. 1 Quote
yourpc48 Posted January 25, 2017 Author Report Posted January 25, 2017 Thanks for the update falconvan. Its nice to get feedback on this. Its been a while since I came up with the idea and process to convert this way and I wondered if people had been using the conversion and how they liked it. 2 Quote
falconvan Posted January 26, 2017 Report Posted January 26, 2017 Thank you for sharing the info for free! 1 Quote
janan5243 Posted January 30, 2017 Report Posted January 30, 2017 I joined this site in 2013 after buying a 49 Desoto coupe. While surfing it I found your post about the disc brakes. Decided I wanted to do the same conversion. Could not find the post ( was not smart enough to bookmark it.) Spent weeks searching for it. Did find Falconvans thread & He was quite helpful. Haven't been on forum much lately ( business issues ). Was so happy to see it revived & at the forefront last week.IT IS NOW BOOKMARKED. Hope to work on conversion this winter & spring. I have a parts exchange book & it shows the same hub for many different models. May be some small differences in the caliper bracket. I'm going to make a mockup with 1/4 luan to see how it fits on my car. Thanks for doing this post. 1 Quote
RickPerry1971 Posted October 3, 2021 Report Posted October 3, 2021 Does anyone still have a link that works for the brackets for explorer brakes on the front? 1 Quote
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