RobRobitaille Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 I have had this truck for years but just got it in the garage and started taking it apart to fix up. Can someone help me to find out what model it is. Vin 90097603 Model DG1-08 Its a Windsor Ontario built truck Also it has a re-manufactured motor there is a tag on the side of the block. How do i find out what motor it is? Can anyone point me to part supplier that from Canada that can order parts such as breaks and steering components? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMoose Posted March 23, 2012 Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 (edited) Serial Number 90097603 Year 1951 Make Dodge Model DG-1 Engine 218.06 Flathead Six Wheelbase 108 Rating 1/2 Ton Engineering Code T307 Plant Windsor, Ontario Build Number 4453 How about some pictures? Edited March 23, 2012 by TheMoose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted March 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 Here are a few. See how they brazed patches on top of fender what would be the best way to remove this patch. Re heat braze or grind it off. Fender is quite solid under patch so i don't know why they were even put there. I have a lot of work ahead of me. Lol P.s thanks for the info Also I think the motor that is in the truck is out of a 3 or 5 ton truck how would i find out which motor it is? Thanks For all your help Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted March 23, 2012 Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 If the engine is green...it's a Jasper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted March 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 I think it was silver hard to tell now the one tag says model R-72 if that means anything to anyone Here are some pics of tags. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted March 23, 2012 Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 The tag reads ontario automotive company......remanned to chrysler specs, sorta answers itself:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fargorat Posted March 24, 2012 Report Share Posted March 24, 2012 engine rebuilders attached their tag on back in the day,not so much anymore.i have a 48 parts truck with a remanufacture tag which tells bore, main bearing, rod bearing. i believe the engine # you are looking for is on the front of block, drivers side, just below the head. it could be covered in gunk. post the # and someone here should be able to decipher for you. like TheMoose posted it should start with T307 and then serial # if original. you dont mention what part of the country you are in. i got tie rod ends, wheel cylinders, master cylinder at napa.drag link and tie rod come up occasionally on ebay but a little pricey . brake shoes, emergency brake relined in Hamilton, Ont. sorry for being long winded but i hope this helps you. good luck. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted March 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2012 Thanks Don that great. I am near Barrie Ont about an hour north of Toronto. Could you give me the name of that place in Hamilton for relining. Also the # on block is R72 10996 I know its not the original its one my grandfather had from back in the day when he use to run dodge dump trucks. We put it in there when i was a kid. So i think its from a 3-5 ton truck. But i would like to know what the cu in is and if i order parts for it what year and model truck should i get them for. Thanks everyone for being so helpful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted March 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2012 Also the head is 25" long Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fargorat Posted March 24, 2012 Report Share Posted March 24, 2012 the place i went to in hamilton is Bartlett-Provincial Brake 905 549-4691 or Industrial Brake in Ham. 905 544-1511. they both do excellent work. you could maybe find someone in Barrie or even Toronto that is a little closer than Hamilton.Been to Barrie many times, nice auto flea market. The # you seem to be quoting is the remanufacturers #. there should be a # punched in the block. a pic of side of engine might be helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted March 24, 2012 Report Share Posted March 24, 2012 I can give you lots of part numbers for parts up here... NAPA, piston ring, and some auto parts central which sells all the main lines for ignition parts, etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted March 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2012 Here is the picture of the block # Also that list of part # would be awesome Thanks for everyone's help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted March 24, 2012 Report Share Posted March 24, 2012 "R" for remanufactured? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted March 24, 2012 Report Share Posted March 24, 2012 If the trucks been sitting, not a bad plan to do some dissasembly of the engine anyway, and also it might be worth popping the head off to soak the rings really well, as they have a tendancy to seize when sitting in those old flat heads. This will also allow you to measure the bore and stroke and tell you what engine you have. It could quite possibly be a 251, or 265...I had a real hard time figuring out my Canadian reman block numbers too...but I did a complete rebuild so it was easy once I knew what the displacement was. If you going to make this a really good driver I would point you towards the front disc conversion kit, it makes a pile of difference, and while your there..update the master cyl to a double resivoir...safer in the long run too... I won't have any stock brake part numbers as I replaced all of that stuff with the kit..but tie rods I think I have, maybe even drag link if I look.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted March 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 If the trucks been sitting, not a bad plan to do some dissasembly of the engine anyway, and also it might be worth popping the head off to soak the rings really well, as they have a tendancy to seize when sitting in those old flat heads.This will also allow you to measure the bore and stroke and tell you what engine you have. It could quite possibly be a 251, or 265...I had a real hard time figuring out my Canadian reman block numbers too...but I did a complete rebuild so it was easy once I knew what the displacement was. If you going to make this a really good driver I would point you towards the front disc conversion kit, it makes a pile of difference, and while your there..update the master cyl to a double resivoir...safer in the long run too... I won't have any stock brake part numbers as I replaced all of that stuff with the kit..but tie rods I think I have, maybe even drag link if I look.... I am quite sure it is one of the larger cu in ones. My grand father had it as a spare for his dump trucks back in the 50's. It has been used but he didn't think it worked that much but he couldn't remember for sure what truck it came out of. When we put it in this truck it ran good but i am sure it hasn't ran in in 15 years. I put oil down plugs and let it soak then turned it by hand a week later and put more oil in. Then got starter to turn it over and put my finger over plug hole it snapped my finger off hard so it appears to have compression I will maybe test it properly later. My goal for this truck is to make it a nice driver. So if it runs decent i would like to avoid taking it apart now. I would like to get it road worthy and make the body solid on a fairly low budget. Then as time goes do things as i have time and money to invest in it. Its kinda a sentimental piece for me and i am more interested in preserving it at this time. I kinda just went on a ramble sorry if it makes no sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted March 25, 2012 Report Share Posted March 25, 2012 Makes sense, but throwing a head gasket in is a pretty cheap and easy task, and picking up a gasket kit isn't much either, then you can do the valve covers too so that when you do start driving it isn't a leaky mess. I'm big on making sure I don't have a trailer queen by doing all the drivability stuff first and the body will get done properly later. I just ran my truck without going through the engine the first year too... Put a rod right through the oil pan...so just trying to steer you right, and if you have a bigger displacement engine best to save it... Their getting hard to find My 251 I did last year had the same rebuild tag and few hours, but just sitting caused issues and I found broken rings in 2 cyls and stuck valves on 3... Hope your project goes well and don't hesitate to ask any questions 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 A patch would have the braize go all the way around. From what I'm seeing, and a I may be mistaken, is a fender and grille front that's been hit very hard, hammered back out and braize put in to repair either a deep groove or tear. The cleanest repair would be to replace the fender or a salvage fender to cut up for a patch panel. I'd grind out what's there if I could, keeping heat down as much as possible, see what's there for real. You're not out anything at this point. If it is a deep groove on the backside, a relief cut with a thin cutoff wheel may let you bring the low area back up where it belongs and let you get the last of the braize off, then welded properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Evans Posted March 30, 2012 Report Share Posted March 30, 2012 You can measure the stroke of the engine by removing the little pipe plug on the head above #6 cylinder. Insert a straight piece of wire in the hole at least 6" long and measure the difference between top and bottom of stroke. someone else here can tell you what the stroke measurement translates to. I don't have that info in front of me right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 I am wondering will the flat six have enough power to push the truck and light load like a couple of atv's along about 70mph. My hope it to use the truck as my weekend toy hauler. I would prefer not to put a V8 in it though. I would like to only change the rear end to gear it fast enough to cruse at hwy speed. Is this possible or an i dreaming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karl head Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 The answer to that question will depend on what rear ratio you have what size engine. these trucks were build long before most of the highway systems were so designed to go 50/60 mph the engine design is a long stroke which means lots of low end power but limited high end. I would advise you read as many post and passed posts on this sight. It is a wealth of information and ideas. And ask lots of questions you are now part of a vast information highway. good Luck Karl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 The answer to that question will depend on what rear ratio you have what size engine. these trucks were build long before most of the highway systems were so designed to go 50/60 mph the engine design is a long stroke which means lots of low end power but limited high end. I would advise you read as many post and passed posts on this sight. It is a wealth of information and ideas. And ask lots of questions you are now part of a vast information highway.good Luck Karl I have the 25" head so 251 or 265cu in My grand father and I took it from a 3-5 ton dump truck about 15 years ago. I was thinking 3.55 axle ratio would run 70 at about 2900 rpm Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 I have had this truck for years but just got it in the garage and started taking it apart to fix up. Can someone help me to find out what model it is. Vin 90097603 Model DG1-08 Its a Windsor Ontario built truck Also it has a re-manufactured motor there is a tag on the side of the block. How do i find out what motor it is? Can anyone point me to part supplier that from Canada that can order parts such as breaks and steering components? Thanks 1 of the best NOS, New and Used parts supplier is Norm Dumontier, at Mid Canada, 1-204-475-3399 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karl head Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 I have the 25" head so 251 or 265cu in My grand father and I took it from a 3-5 ton dump truck about 15 years ago. I was thinking 3.55 axle ratio would run 70 at about 2900 rpm Thanks There is a calculator here on this site that will give you speed/rpm and wheel size combinations give it a try . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobRobitaille Posted September 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 (edited) According to my shop manual there were three ratios available in the 1951 b3b. 3.73 4.10 and 4.78 If my truck has the slowest 4.78 with a large tire 33" it should run 70 mph at 3400 rpm according to the calculator on this site. Is that to fast to rev this motor? I want to down grade to a small car as my daily driver but I still need a truck for my weekend hobby's and around the house jobs. I would be hauling atv's to the hunt camp and building supplies from town mostly. My camp is 2.5 hrs away on major hi-ways so i need to be able to run those speeds. Has anyone with a b3b used there truck like this? Edited September 23, 2012 by RobRobitaille Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55 Fargo Posted September 23, 2012 Report Share Posted September 23, 2012 According to my shop manual there were three ratios available in the 1951 b3b.3.73 4.10 and 4.78 If my truck has the slowest 4.78 with a large tire 33" it should run 70 mph at 3400 rpm according to the calculator on this site. Is that to fast to rev this motor? I want to down grade to a small car as my daily driver but I still need a truck for my weekend hobby's and around the house jobs. I would be hauling atv's to the hunt camp and building supplies from town mostly. My camp is 2.5 hrs away on major hi-ways so i need to be able to run those speeds. Has anyone with a b3b used there truck like this? You need to determine what gear ratio you have in that diff, I would not even entertain driving major highways with 4.10 to 4.78 gears, a whole lotta a revvin. 3400 rpm, is damn near redlined, 3000 would be okay, but closer to 2500 rpm for long highway drives is the ticket. Wait till you have a super hot day, and your running at 3000 rpm for a while, lots of heat. You can swap in a different pumpkin( 3rd member), from another Mopar prior to 1954s, using a 10 spline axle. You could get a 3.54 from a 46-48 Chrysler, or a 3.73 from lots of Dodges and Plyms, relatively easy swap. Or get an 80s Mopar 8 1/4 diff, from 3.23 to 3.55, then you can cruise easier at highway speeds. I have P205 75 15 tires, and still feel comfortable at 60 mph, engine handles it easy, but these old trucks ride like old trucks. New shocks, king pins, tie rod ends, tight steering, springs in good shape, and good tires, are a must at speeds over 50 mph. PS mark your drive shaft and rear wheel, roll truck until rear wheel makes 1 revolution,and count how many times the mark on drive shaft spins= diff ratio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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